sensor lowering question...

SC_Steve

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well, this is only going to be like this until I get my shocks/springs. I just wanted to do it for the hell of it really.

but anyway... when I go to lower the car (lets say 1" drop)... wont that make the car that much lower after 65 (or whatever the drop speed is).

What is the safest I can go without risking bottoming out. Remeber, I do live the in snow belt, so many of the roads around here arent very friendly lol

also, I'm concerned that if I go to low... I'll run into problems jacking the thing up to do work on it. I mean, it's already pretty low lol

just wanted to hear from some people that have done it.

thanks,
-Steve
 
SC_Steve said:
well, this is only going to be like this until I get my shocks/springs. I just wanted to do it for the hell of it really.

but anyway... when I go to lower the car (lets say 1" drop)... wont that make the car that much lower after 65 (or whatever the drop speed is).

What is the safest I can go without risking bottoming out. Remeber, I do live the in snow belt, so many of the roads around here arent very friendly lol

also, I'm concerned that if I go to low... I'll run into problems jacking the thing up to do work on it. I mean, it's already pretty low lol

just wanted to hear from some people that have done it.

thanks,
-Steve

To start off....yes it will make the car lower when it hits speeds of over 65.

I too live in the snow belt, and lived in NY for 5 years and the whole time I had my car sensor lowered as low as I could get it, had high performance tires on it (NEVER had snows on it....EVER) and never.....NEVER got stuck. I had a 45 minute drive under normal conditions to get to/from work, from Pearl River to Newburgh (for a few years.....a lil over 3 that is). So, you can lower the car as low as you want and not really run into any problems......at least I did not.

It is all preference on how low you want to go, but unless I am doing over 100, I have never bottomed out....but, then again, I have been driving lowriders for over 10 years now, so I know what to look for while I am driving, so I can avoid it. As far as jacking the car up, unless you have the 'switch' lowering on your car, the stock jack will work, most hydraulic jacks will not until you utilize the stock jack to get the car a few inches extra off of the ground.

Hope that helps a bit! :Beer
 
dont mean to hi-jack your thread but hey ray the car sit uneven the back has a .50" differnce in drop how can i fix this
 
lincolnboy said:
dont mean to hi-jack your thread but hey ray the car sit uneven the back has a .50" differnce in drop how can i fix this

The only things I can think of is either you have stiffer shocks in the rear, or you have moisture in your system which is clogging up the vent either at the bag, or in the compressor. And there is not enuf pressure/weight of the car to squeeze out any more air......only things i can think of.
 
SC_Steve said:
but anyway... when I go to lower the car (lets say 1" drop)... wont that make the car that much lower after 65 (or whatever the drop speed is).

I think Ray misunderstood your question...It will not drop any lower at 65 than where it sits when parked. It will drop at 65MPH, but since it raises when you get in, and lowers when you get out, it simply drops back down to the parked height. I think it would be nearly impossible to get the car too low via sensor lowering. It really depends on what type of driving you do everyday and what the roads are like in your area.

Surely if you have to go down dirt roads and traverse roadways filled with potholes everyday you will have problems, but in most cases you should be fine at the lowest setting. This is with the front sensors fully compressed and the rear sensors matched to the front (you CAN get the rear too low).

If your rear is too low on one side I'd try venting it completely, then letting the car pump itself back up. This is a good reason to use four switches when you do the switch mod. It'll allow you to control the height of each corner.

Kale
 

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