I recently got my valve cover gaskets replaced, and thats why it was shaking the first time. But this time the check engine light isnt on. It might be the tranny because it doesnt shake nearly as much in park as opposed to stopped in drive, and i needed to get the rear end bearing replaced because it was making the humming noise. Any ideas? I'm fed up. :Bang
Shaking Again, Different Story
- Thread starter KD00LS
- Start date
eL eS
Dedicated LVC Member
might be the torque converter with the humming sound. Most of the tranny repairs require the solenoid pack and/or the valve body. They are about 800 dollars together for the parts.
eL eS
Dedicated LVC Member
wow grinding. I have had a motoring sound when at a stop it tends to idle down to about 550 but I never heard a grinding sound before any of my many tranny repairs.
well if it helps any, im on the pedal alot, and i need to get these fixed
Wheel Alignment
Replace Cabin Air Filter
After i turn the air or heat of, it makes a grinding or rubbing sound
Engine is shaking and grinding
Rear end need a bearing replaced to stop humming
Wheel Alignment
Replace Cabin Air Filter
After i turn the air or heat of, it makes a grinding or rubbing sound
Engine is shaking and grinding
Rear end need a bearing replaced to stop humming
Kevin
Well-Known LVC Member
Engine is grinding? Wow, sounds serious.
As for the shaking, could just be bad coil pack(s). Even with ONE coil only 1/2 uchered on my V8, the car would run like crap, kinda stumble on hard acceleration, and gave crappy milage. Replaced the coil, and the gaskets on the valve covers.
Make sure that the valve cover job was done right, and that there is NO oil down in your spark plug wells. If there is - whoever changed your gaskets fudged the job, and it'll have to be done again.
Oil getting into your plug wells fouls up the coils, which gives you shaky running engines.
Replace all your plugs while you're at it.
BTW, has your check engine light come on?
As for the shaking, could just be bad coil pack(s). Even with ONE coil only 1/2 uchered on my V8, the car would run like crap, kinda stumble on hard acceleration, and gave crappy milage. Replaced the coil, and the gaskets on the valve covers.
Make sure that the valve cover job was done right, and that there is NO oil down in your spark plug wells. If there is - whoever changed your gaskets fudged the job, and it'll have to be done again.
Oil getting into your plug wells fouls up the coils, which gives you shaky running engines.
Replace all your plugs while you're at it.
BTW, has your check engine light come on?
It will shake more in drive because you are putting a load on all of your mounts, so you feel it better. That grinding...could it be one of your accessories? Bearings in an alternator going bad can sound like hell.
My car shakes pretty good when cold and coming down from that high warm-up idle. I haven't checked my coils and such on this one yet, but I am betting I have one that is going bad. I do not have any surging on acceleration like I did on my wife's car.
My car shakes pretty good when cold and coming down from that high warm-up idle. I haven't checked my coils and such on this one yet, but I am betting I have one that is going bad. I do not have any surging on acceleration like I did on my wife's car.
pfsfreedom
New LVC Member
I had the same repairs done (Coil Pack #3 replaced, all spark plugs & wiring replaced, valve cover gasket kit installed) and I just got the car back yesterday. Mine is still shaking and running like it's missing - perhaps another bad coil pack? The engine light is coming on again and the code is PO352. Any help?
eL eS
Dedicated LVC Member
http://www.asashop.org/autoinc/feb2003/mech.cfm
I found this link searching on this code. My bad coils only threw a CEL one time and it was a flashing CEL. I would like to know what wires they replaced as there are no spark plug wires. There si a wiring harness that leads to teh coils. I have heard of cases where the insulator wore off in a spot where the wire rested on the Valve Cover. You might be best served performing a visula inspection and or wraping the wires in tape or flexible conduit.
I found this link searching on this code. My bad coils only threw a CEL one time and it was a flashing CEL. I would like to know what wires they replaced as there are no spark plug wires. There si a wiring harness that leads to teh coils. I have heard of cases where the insulator wore off in a spot where the wire rested on the Valve Cover. You might be best served performing a visula inspection and or wraping the wires in tape or flexible conduit.
pfsfreedom
New LVC Member
eL eS said:
Thanks for the article! The service ticket says I got a Transmission service, Electronic Tune-Up, Fuel Injection Service, Fuel Filter, Valve cover gasket kit. It doesn't say anything about wires, I'm just "uneducated" on what is under my hood.
I just know that my 2000 LS 3.9 has run awesome the first 130,000 but now it is really struggling.
I was just driving on the freeway last weekend when the engine light came on and it suddenly felt like it was "missing" and started losing power at "shift RPMs" and at stop, especially when in gear and the foot was on the brakes (like at a stop sign).
After all the work so far, you would think that the missing and rough engine running would have been fixed... I'm afraid to take it back to the same mechanic because I wonder what they will do next... Is it dealer time? Anyone know someone in the Kansas City or nearby area that I can trust?
eL eS
Dedicated LVC Member
pfsfreedom said:
I would go to the dealer. If they serviced the transmission I would be concerned. My expericen with tranny repairs goes back to 2001 and have been to Ford dealers that do not know how to service the tranny.
You very well could have low fluid or improperly installed trans fluid filter. Check this website out for a dealer in your area. http://www.asashop.org/
I would also check to see if they are AAA approved. Become a AAA member if shop with AAA approved shops; if the repair does not work you can have AAA arbitrate for you. The dealer has to accept AAA's decision but you are not bound to it so it leave room for you to litigate if you must.
Check the Coil wire harness for exposed wires as well. You could be grounding something when it shouldnt be.
eL eS
Dedicated LVC Member
My LS has 110k on it and I am now noticing a rough idle at stop lights. I have replaced coils, plugs, O2s, IAC and EGR. It only occurs when in gear if I shift to N is purrs like a kitten. But I do not have any drive time issues.