Shopping for a 1981-89 Town Car

[80sTownCarEnthusiast]

Hi everyone, I'm new here.

I am 16 years old and have been in love with big luxury cars for years. My dad and I are shopping for a used car, and since it'll become our oldest car it'll likely be mine for driving school and around town. So, we're looking for a 1981-1989 Town Car (I love the cushy ride!).

What should I look out for when inspecting these year Town Cars? My dad would prefer to get one without some of the major options. So no moonroof, preferably no digital dashboard, and no air suspension (so no 90s models). I like the analog 88-89 dash, anyway, with its big clock.

Unfortunately, we've already missed two that would have been great - a black 89 and a light blue 88. It would figure that they were close, looked very good in the photos (rust-free), low miles, and were priced well.

Well, this weekend we'll be looking at a few late 80s Town Cars, and an 80s Continental. I'll post back here if anything good happens.

By the way, did the vent panes in the front doors of the 80s Town Cars ever have an option to open - or do they, and I can't find the switches? I've heard that they were a power option to attract smokers to Lincolns (I don't remember which magazine I read that in), and I've seen some well-kept TC's drive by with just the vents rolled down. Am I crazy or this really exist?

Thanks, and hello!
-Alex

 

[slowmkviii]

they do exist have worked on a few. It works with the power window. Get at least an 86 or newer (EFI), auto dim goes out and is getting hard to find parts for. Thats all I can think of now havent had an 80's ford in 4 years

 

[brentalan]

Look for oil leaks, my mom had a problem with the rear main seal on her 302, I think that was fairly common with age.

 

[bobreilich]

Hi everyone, I'm new here.

I am 16 years old and have been in love with big luxury cars for years. My dad and I are shopping for a used car, and since it'll become our oldest car it'll likely be mine for driving school and around town. So, we're looking for a 1981-1989 Town Car (I love the cushy ride!).

What should I look out for when inspecting these year Town Cars? My dad would prefer to get one without some of the major options. So no moonroof, preferably no digital dashboard, and no air suspension (so no 90s models). I like the analog 88-89 dash, anyway, with its big clock.

Unfortunately, we've already missed two that would have been great - a black 89 and a light blue 88. It would figure that they were close, looked very good in the photos (rust-free), low miles, and were priced well.

Well, this weekend we'll be looking at a few late 80s Town Cars, and an 80s Continental. I'll post back here if anything good happens.

By the way, did the vent panes in the front doors of the 80s Town Cars ever have an option to open - or do they, and I can't find the switches? I've heard that they were a power option to attract smokers to Lincolns (I don't remember which magazine I read that in), and I've seen some well-kept TC's drive by with just the vents rolled down. Am I crazy or this really exist?

Thanks, and hello!
-Alex

Stay away from 80-84, they have the vv variable venturi carburetors or that stupid solenoid fuel injection above the carburetor and 351 winsors. 85 was the first year year for the 302 5 liter and fuel injection, which was peppier than the 351 and gave better mileage. Your best best is 85 - 89. I don't know if the 85 had any bugs to work out, so I went with an 86. Don't be afraid of the big options, my moonroofs have always worked fine. The digital dash is nice with its 11 checkout system. However, I had one and the message window would go blank for a few days at a time. You could end up with an alarm chime but no display to read. This is somewhat a common problem, I don't know what the cause is. I would stay away from the air suspension also. WHAT TO LOOK FOR: just make sure everything works. The transmission usually loses third gear at 103,000 like clockwork. Expect to have it rebuilt at that point. I've got 140,000 on mine but its still fine. The timing chain ABSOLUTELY MUST MUST must be changed before 140,000 or your valves will start hitting pistons, you won't start, and have all kinds of problems. That stupid nylon coating on the teeth starts to break off, causing a lot of slack. Change water pump, all hoses and belts, thermostat while your into it. If pulsing during braking, turn the front rotors and replace the pads, no big deal. Probably needs new shocks, $20 each. Lots of good parts at junkyards to get. You can swap cloth for leather seats or vice vers for $25. Enjoy shopping, and don't be in a hurry. There are lots of them still out there. I always liked the stainless along the bottom to. Bob Reilich

 

[slowmkviii]

EFI started in 86 model year
valves cant hit pistons in 5.0s
but the stock timing gear was plastic mine lasted til 230,000 I don't recomend wating that long, I had no problems with the trany sold the
car at 280,000 only problem was heater core going out

 

[Impala]

Hi Alex:

As another driver who started his driving experience with a Lincoln and a current Lincoln owner (mine was a 77 Town Coupe), here my suggestion to you.

Look for a 88-89 model. The 88-89 are great years for Lincoln, they couldn't keep up with the demand and made nearly 180,000 copies in 88 and nearly that much in 89. Chances are you will have a better chance finding one from those year. I would suggest you go for a 88 for the following reason. In 87 Ford changed the revised the engine slightly with the revised EEC these three years engines are preferred over the earlier version. In the 88 the radiator grill changed from the egg crate to the classic waterfall look. And in 89 all the exterior lettering changed with the new rounded style script. This is important if you care about the looks. You will have a much harder time finding exterior parts for 89 if you ever need as it was being a one year only and many are not compatible with older model.

In terms for what to look for, I will look for a car with Trailer-tow suspension package over anything else. With that package you will get duel exhaust heavy duty cooling and braking, traction-lock axle and heavy duty spring. The car with this package handles much better. Oil leak is not a major issues, but I would go far a car that has a clean service history record. Check if the alternator has been replaced and make sure the wiring harness has also been replaced, this is a weak point for the car. Without a proper fix, this problem can sometimes lead to under hood fire.

Check the condition of Climate Control System, A/C is expensive to fix so is the replacement of heater core.

The power vent window is standard on all the 80's T/C, they were option for the 70's Continental and Mark V. The are operated by the power window switch. The vent pane goes down first then the main glass. The power windows is a weak link of these car. The gears are made of plastic and they will fail for sure. The parts is dirt cheap to it's a real pain to fix them.

Mike

88 Lincoln Town Car Cartier

 

[bobreilich]

Bob again. Whatever year you get, buy the 3 volume factory service manual for it from Helm Inc. easily found on the internet. The 3 books cost $50. You will save several times that the first repair you make. The power windows like to quit because the clutch inside the drive motor disintegrates. I have fixed many of these. Get a WINDOW LIFT GEAR KIT from any parts stores. Pull the doorskin off, not hard. Look at the bottom of the door, towards the front. You will find 3 prick punch marks in the door. Thats where you drill a hole, about 1" diameter, to get a socket thru, to remove the 3 bolts that hold in the power window motor. You will also have to remove the speaker next to it. This gives you access to reach the motor. It sits on 3 posts and you will have to work it off a little to remove it. Once removed, there is just one phillips head screw to remove, then remove the cover plate. You will find the inside smashed full of pieces, looks like hardened black grease. Thats whats left of your 3 clutches. Remove the old pinion gear and clean all this out, clean worm gear also. Apply the red grease that comes with the new gear and installation is the reverse of removal. The new window gear lift kit can come in 2 forms. One is like the original equipment with 3 plastic cylinders for clutches. The second, and better one is full of springs. This should last longer.