Short term condition

KStromberg

KStromberg

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When I start the car in the morning it will idle fine and then go into this 20 second loss of power like it's missing/not getting enough fuel and the idle will be rough will I am driving it down my road going to work. Then it will go away and all is fine. It has been doing this pretty frequently just recently and only lasts for a short period of time. I guess I should be doing some diagnosis but I felt like typing. The fuel pump is original, the fuel filter is new, and I need to probably tackle these blasted valve covers. I do have several grommets leaking. I do find it odd that it only lasts for about 20 seconds and then it clears right up. As of last year, I checked all 8 coils with a multimeter and they all seemed to be within range.
 
KStromberg said:
When I start the car in the morning it will idle fine and then go into this 20 second loss of power like it's missing/not getting enough fuel and the idle will be rough will I am driving it down my road going to work. Then it will go away and all is fine. It has been doing this pretty frequently just recently and only lasts for a short period of time. I guess I should be doing some diagnosis but I felt like typing. The fuel pump is original, the fuel filter is new, and I need to probably tackle these blasted valve covers. I do have several grommets leaking. I do find it odd that it only lasts for about 20 seconds and then it clears right up. As of last year, I checked all 8 coils with a multimeter and they all seemed to be within range.
Click to expand...

I think it could very well be the valve cover gaskets leaking causing that...
 
KStromberg said:
When I start the car in the morning it will idle fine and then go into this 20 second loss of power like it's missing/not getting enough fuel and the idle will be rough will I am driving it down my road going to work. Then it will go away and all is fine. It has been doing this pretty frequently just recently and only lasts for a short period of time. I guess I should be doing some diagnosis but I felt like typing. The fuel pump is original, the fuel filter is new, and I need to probably tackle these blasted valve covers. I do have several grommets leaking. I do find it odd that it only lasts for about 20 seconds and then it clears right up. As of last year, I checked all 8 coils with a multimeter and they all seemed to be within range.
Click to expand...

My Bird does that too. I put new plugs and wires and it runs smoother, but when it's cold, it still skips if you push to accelerator like 3/4 down. The next thing I'm trying is rebuilding the injectors. I'll let you know how it goes.
 
LaserSVT said:
Rings.
Click to expand...

What makes you say that? I would do a used oil analysis to see if there is any abnormal wear on the motor. If it is rings you would see it in the results. $25 dollars to do from Blackstone labs.
 
Read codes, my guess is a sticking intake runner.
How did they look when you installed the cobra intake?

Plus fix the covers.
 
You still have the AIR valve? Maybe a vacuum leak on that line? Isn't it only active when the car first starts?

Just throwing some crap out there...
 
Actually air injection pump, EGR and a leaky IMRC are all really good ideas. Since the air pump does its thing shortly after startup it could be the issue. Too much EGR flow could be another.
 
Can't you guys get the injectors and coils scoped and stop all the guesses? Anyone locally to you who could do it?
Post the waveforms if you can.

Andy.
 
The EGR has been deleted and shut off in the tune and the air injection system has also been deleted and the pump is no longer hooked up. The intake runners were removed from the car and cleaned in 2010 THOROUGHLY before the intake swap ever occurred.

I have been getting a smell of fuel in side the vehicle when driving it particularly when on the throttle hard, but that has been going on before this started happening but quite frankly I haven't been putting much attention on the car and now I need to. :rolleyes: Perhaps this is an injector issue that has finally started to surface in terms of driveability. I retained the stock rails when I did the intake swap and they were TIGHT. Actually a much tighter fit than I'd rather see but I dealt with it because it made things a lot easier.

Keep in mind, the IMRCs were cleaned back in 2010 and the intake swap in 2011 so nothing has been messed with in recent history.

I also spot checked the plugs last year and they were still at a good gap.

I guess my first step is to see if I have any codes. :rolleyes:
 
You really need to datalog the car. Doubt you will get any codes with a CEL.
 
98lincmk7lsc said:
What did you do with the EGR and AIR pump vacuum lines?
Click to expand...

I'm going to have to check that all out. I'm not even sure. The hard lines are still attached to the headers but cut short with the diverter valve removed and the lines are welded shut. The air pump in the bumper is entirely disconnected. The EGR valve is removed and has a delete plate and the lines are unhooked. I'm fairly certain we covered all of our bases and either connected open vacuum lines or plugged ones that seem to have no vacuum. The vacuum lines have never been an issue. This is a recent condition which leads me to believe it is something else.

Update: went to volleyball and didn't do chit with the car this evening
 
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