I thought that the only thing I had not replaced in this car was the motor and transmission, but I discovered that it was eating tires as fast as I could buy a new set, more so on the back than the front. Turns out all the bushings in the control arms are either gone or going and she can't be aligned properly. So for just over 3 grand the problem along with struts will be fixed. The book value on my 2004 V8 is less than the fix. So at what point do we decide that it is time to move on to another vehicle?
So... bottom line when is enough?
- Thread starter Maxx
- Start date
briasmit91
Active LVC Member
I guess it's all personal preference which depends on how much you love the car. Since the cars only depreciate more every year and the parts are hard enough to find as it is, some people call it quits.
stumpy
Active LVC Member
I told my neighbor about my 04 v6 and all the problems it had. he always loved the way it looked.... ended up selling it to him for $950, because he was in need of a car and thought he could get it back on the road.
he has not been able to pass inspection, and has spent over $500 in parts already
he has not been able to pass inspection, and has spent over $500 in parts already
Andrizzle
Dedicated LVC Member
3 grand to replace all the control arms is straight robbery.
You have to remember most of us have the LS paid off and I assume you do too, so unless you are ready for a new car and dropping $3-400 a month on a car payment, then that puts you around 10 months before you are already at your control arm theft price.
Yea we have to make repairs on our older cars and parts are becoming rare and expensive... but it still beats a car payment. Saving money these days is underrated. So many people are living at their max means - that it is scary.
You have to remember most of us have the LS paid off and I assume you do too, so unless you are ready for a new car and dropping $3-400 a month on a car payment, then that puts you around 10 months before you are already at your control arm theft price.
Yea we have to make repairs on our older cars and parts are becoming rare and expensive... but it still beats a car payment. Saving money these days is underrated. So many people are living at their max means - that it is scary.
The more I read posts here, the more I feel as though I may have been the luckiest LS owner here. I bought the LS before I found this site. I had always wanted one, believing they were good cars (hey, it was a Lincoln and I have owned many) with great styling. Admittedly, I never had issues with mine and it was a beautiful car that I invested a few dollars into (new wheels, shocks, CD Changer, a few small things here and there). It always ran fine and it never failed me, not once. I sold it a week ago (for more than I had invested) in the hopes of finding another but I have to say, that is now unlikely. I made an offer on an '05 with 70k miles and if I never hear back from that seller, I think I'll find a 3-Series BMW in my driveway before another LS. I'm not trashing the LS by any means but I sure am scared off them at this point.
Which is why I have a 535i sitting in my garage next to my wife's LS...
I've had several BMW's over the years and although any car can have issues, the M50 is a bullet-proof motor.
Mine's got the N55... 3.0L twin-scroll turbo. It's advertised as 300hp, but it's got way more than that! I also get incredible mileage. On our many, many trips to PHX I consistently achieved over 31mpg! That included about 30 miles of mountain driving and I wasn't easy on the loud pedal. Saw this durig our trip to Yellowstone last spring:
Telco
Dedicated LVC Member
I could NEVER sell my LS to a neighbor. I almost never trade cars in, but I'm trading mine off when I finish fixing the stuff that needs to be fixed before it can be sold. I'll probably trade it in on a car for my daughter, drive my truck for a month or three until I get a bit more cash put back, then buy a new car outright.
I would not sell any car to anyone I know, there is always the possibility of something going wrong and the resentment of the buyer towards you. I tried to trade my LS in last year but the dealer would not give me anything on trade in. They said they would take it to auction. One of the many reasons we didn't buy from there.
I hate car dealers. When you mention what the KBB value is, they respond with 'well, KBB is just a guide', yet they have priced the car far above that value. When you trade in a car, KBB becomes the gold standard. A$$holes, the lot of them.
Yeah, the guy who knows you, or gal, may bring it to you for insight on fixing it,or in my case,to do the fix for them. Best to sell to someone who will spend the time learning to help themselves OR has the means to get it repaired.
I wouldn't have a problem working on it for a person who hasn't the money for big repairs, but others can fend for themselves like I did.
I usually give my cast off cars to my kids after making sure they're safe and fairly dependable, but I don't know about giving the LS to them.
don-ohio
^)
I wouldn't have a problem working on it for a person who hasn't the money for big repairs, but others can fend for themselves like I did.
I usually give my cast off cars to my kids after making sure they're safe and fairly dependable, but I don't know about giving the LS to them.
don-ohio
^)
I might spend up to 2000 in parts,say transmission,but if engine goes,I'll probably just buy another one like I did recently. Look for one with lowish miles from a private owner(s) and find its history before I buy. don-ohio ^)
^)Wicked Ace
Well-Known LVC Member
I traded mine in last October. I was feeling nervous at 93K miles and never had a problem with the cooling system... over due. The first set of COPS went at 38-42k miles... time for a second?
At 75k I rebuilt the rear when I found, while changing the brakes, every rubber boot was disintegrated. I figured it was only a matter of time before things failed so new links and tie rods went in along with new shocks. The rear sport shocks were hard to find and cost a bundle. BTW the left rear caliper had decided to lock up. All I needed was a $2 slide pin that took 3 days to locate because no one was making them.
The DCCV went at about 80k. This I passed off to my mechanic because I can't get underneath any longer like I used to.
Plastic parts on the dash and console had broken, not because of wear, I rarely used them, just age. If available neither were cheap.
As everyone knows parts are getting scarce and expensive, it's become a forgotten niche car. Ford walked away a long time ago.
When I weighed the cost of repairs pending and the value of the car as it was, I decided it was time to let her go. I bought it new in 2005 and had a run of better than 10 years. For the most part it was an enjoyable ride. I'm glad I got it instead of the 2 year old 5 series I was looking at. I see some of you say you keep the car and put the money into it. Keep in mind that cars have become considerably better with newer technology. Even what was new on the LS back then has developed and matured in newer vehicles. That said.... I love my new Grand Cherokee Summit!
At 75k I rebuilt the rear when I found, while changing the brakes, every rubber boot was disintegrated. I figured it was only a matter of time before things failed so new links and tie rods went in along with new shocks. The rear sport shocks were hard to find and cost a bundle. BTW the left rear caliper had decided to lock up. All I needed was a $2 slide pin that took 3 days to locate because no one was making them.
The DCCV went at about 80k. This I passed off to my mechanic because I can't get underneath any longer like I used to.
Plastic parts on the dash and console had broken, not because of wear, I rarely used them, just age. If available neither were cheap.
As everyone knows parts are getting scarce and expensive, it's become a forgotten niche car. Ford walked away a long time ago.
When I weighed the cost of repairs pending and the value of the car as it was, I decided it was time to let her go. I bought it new in 2005 and had a run of better than 10 years. For the most part it was an enjoyable ride. I'm glad I got it instead of the 2 year old 5 series I was looking at. I see some of you say you keep the car and put the money into it. Keep in mind that cars have become considerably better with newer technology. Even what was new on the LS back then has developed and matured in newer vehicles. That said.... I love my new Grand Cherokee Summit!
Were only the parts available... That $10K will go quickly in custom made parts!
Telco
Dedicated LVC Member
I usually give my cast off cars to my kids after making sure they're safe and fairly dependable, but I don't know about giving the LS to them.
don-ohio
This, I also usually do, and my daughter's Malibu has been driven into the ground. It's next stop is likely the salvage yard, it's so bad. But, I'd rather buy her another car, use the LS as a trade and drive her Malibu until I get something else than give her the LS. I don't want to stick her with bigger problems than she has now. While my LS is running fine now, we all know repairs when you aren't a mechanic start at 4 digits and go up from there. Hell, I tried to get a shop to just do a basic rear brake pad replacement on mine, the cheapest was 200 bucks if it just needed pads, 400 if the rotors needed turning. Not replaced, just turned. I was so shocked I just said thanks and hung up. New pads were 26 bucks, and that square caliper tool was another 10. My main concern was doing the work on my gravel driveway, otherwise I'd never have even considered hiring the job out.
Seems labour rates and parts have gone through the roof everywhere the last 5ish years. Ford charged me $125 (their hourly rate) to re-index my driver's side window after a regulator and keypad replacement. The 4 factory shocks I have in the garage were ~$65 when I bought them; now they would be something like $135! Must be this booing economy...
Full set of rear control arms is $800 and Ford is the only option unless you want to machine them out for aftermarket bearings. Rear knuckles are $60 in bearings and $70-100 in a machine shop to press in bearings. Full set of front control arms is around $600. Front wheel hubs around $200. Ball joints for the front around $70 and again another $70-100 to press them in. If you add front and rear sway bar links you're in for another $100 or so.
Essentially, you can buy the parts to completely rebuild the front and rear suspension for around $2000 including the machine shop to rebuild the rear and front knuckles.
If you have someone else do the labor you can add $600-$1000 to that depending upon who you use, the rear being more expensive cause of the axles. So $3000 to do just the rear suspension is a bit much. You should be able to get the rear suspension completely replaced or rebuilt for around $1500. Rear aftermarket shocks around $120 and probably $200 in labor to swap them out. I'd say $2000 is more inline for rebuilding the complete rear suspension including shocks.
I'd recommend you buy your own parts for two reasons. First off you aren't paying extra for them to make a phone call and have parts delivered. Second you can make sure the parts that are used are good parts and not junkyard take-off's or whatever was cheapest at the parts store. Then you either do the work yourself or find a mechanic that will install your parts.
Essentially, you can buy the parts to completely rebuild the front and rear suspension for around $2000 including the machine shop to rebuild the rear and front knuckles.
If you have someone else do the labor you can add $600-$1000 to that depending upon who you use, the rear being more expensive cause of the axles. So $3000 to do just the rear suspension is a bit much. You should be able to get the rear suspension completely replaced or rebuilt for around $1500. Rear aftermarket shocks around $120 and probably $200 in labor to swap them out. I'd say $2000 is more inline for rebuilding the complete rear suspension including shocks.
I'd recommend you buy your own parts for two reasons. First off you aren't paying extra for them to make a phone call and have parts delivered. Second you can make sure the parts that are used are good parts and not junkyard take-off's or whatever was cheapest at the parts store. Then you either do the work yourself or find a mechanic that will install your parts.