Solenoid/Trans

xford

xford

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Starting to have a small delay shifting into reverse on Gen 2 2006 5R55S with 95k miles.

Thinking about doing a small overhaul. Looking for some input on options plus items I should consider replacing w/o dropping trans.

Initial thoughts:

1. Solenoid - part # 9L2Z-7G391-A - I see recommendations to purchase from Tasca

2. Shift Kit - Transgo TRG-5R55W-HD2 or Shift Technology Products K5R55W/N/S? It appears the Shift Tech has a patented cooler flow valve.

3. Filter - part # 17948-05155346

4. Gasket

5. Mercon V

6. Should I replace Aux Filter? - part # 17948-05207630

7. What do you think of these Servo Bore fixes (*) and how hard would they be to replace w/o dropping the trans? http://www.fordservoboretransmissionfixsolution.com

(*) from Mikeyswood original post: http://www.lincolnvscadillac.com/forum/showthread.php?80761-5R55-Repairs&referrerid=14049

Thanks in advance and any recommendations on where to purchase for best deal would be helpful.
 
I would stick with TransGo for the valve body kit. The servo-bore kit is probably not worth the effort on an LS. I cannot see any way to do the job without dropping the transmission, and if you are going to go that far into it I would just do it right the first time.
 
As I have dealt with the trans, do it right the first time. Get the transgo kit, however some parts will not go in with out pulling the trans. It comes with an updated pump relieve valve an some other bits. Also just have the trans drilled and sleeved with the actual sleeves made to fix the servo bore issue.

While in there also replace all gaskets, the valve body gasket plate. In the 5r55n this is a bonded gasket so get the whole plate with gasket, not just the gaskets. I would imagine it is the same in the 5r55s.

Or just have it rebuilt and never deal with for as long as you own the car, assuming they know what the **** they are doing.
 
a small delay.. compared to what?
my 2 cents: your car isnt worth throwing time, effort, or $ into for something so trivial which will probably go away when the weather gets warmer. alternatively there are ample free things you can do to smooth out tranny op. use the lever to shift thru every option fwds and backwards 10X every time you turn the car on for the next week. i bet your 'delay' cuts in half or completely goes away. it will def go away if you clear the kam and reset it correctly <though doing so could cause other problems if you have delayed maintenance or marginal parts like coils, maf, battery, etc>
 
I would go ahead and replace the aux filter. What's the use of changing the fluid just to pump it through a dirty filter?
 
jrand said:
a small delay.. compared to what?
my 2 cents: your car isnt worth throwing time, effort, or $ into for something so trivial which will probably go away when the weather gets warmer. alternatively there are ample free things you can do to smooth out tranny op. use the lever to shift thru every option fwds and backwards 10X every time you turn the car on for the next week. i bet your 'delay' cuts in half or completely goes away. it will def go away if you clear the kam and reset it correctly <though doing so could cause other problems if you have delayed maintenance or marginal parts like coils, maf, battery, etc>
Click to expand...

how would you think that shifting through gears would fix a trans problem, if parts are worn this will only wear them faster by engaging and disengaging them for no reason...
 
2002_lincolnLS said:
how would you think that shifting through gears would fix a trans problem, if parts are worn this will only wear them faster by engaging and disengaging them for no reason...
Click to expand...

well my first question, which OP never answered, is critical: a small delay.. compared to what?

youre assuming a 'small delay' means worn parts, but he could be referring to the small delay that occurs with sudden pressure/temp changes <especially if dropping colder>... ie. 'its slightly delayed compared to yesterday' we dont know what hes talking abt bc of a lack of info. its winter, a 'small delay' in engagement could be the result of sudden temp/pressure changes without the computer/kam having gotten used to the diff pressure/temps. cycling thru the shift options will help the computer/kam adjust to the current pressure/temp situation.
 
my trans was just rebuilt and it has been about 10 degrees on average in the morning, I have no delay, so yes delay means worn parts....
 
2002_lincolnLS said:
my trans was just rebuilt and it has been about 10 degrees on average in the morning, I have no delay, so yes delay means worn parts....
Click to expand...

Yep, delay in engagement from park/neutral to drive/reverse = worn parts, sticking solenoid, leaking valve, bad pump, and/or ...
 
dirty.jpg


Any minute now!

Right ... cuz it "can be fixed for free", don't ya know :shifty:
 
Thanks all - I appreciate all the input. The slight delay I have is minor but I do live in California so I don't think it's retaliated to operating temps as they are not too extreme. I do believe, however, jrand has a point that doing nothing is a viable option. Over the years I have most likely put too much money into this car relative to its actual value in resale and I think 95% of people would do nothing based on the small delay. That said "value" is subjective and I still love this car and don't mind putting more money in it (the recent coilover installation kind of got me fired up again). At this point my intention is to "drive the wheels off" this car.... 2006 with 95k miles and I still get compliments that it looks new. I will work on this repair in the next month and let everyone know how it goes. Touching the trans always has the possibility of being a mistake!
 
2002_lincolnLS said:
my trans was just rebuilt and it has been about 10 degrees on average in the morning, I have no delay, so yes delay means worn parts....
Click to expand...

try to follow along here:
you drive your car everyday. if the ambient temp is, say, ~70 degrees for 4 months straight, and then, all of a sudden, the ambient temp drops to, say, ~22 degrees... every auto-tranny LS will have a 'slight delay' when shifting the first time <and maybe even a handful of times> when the ambient temp plunges like that. the tranny is pressure sensitive, so anything affecting the pressures will change the 'feel' of engagements. its probably not a big deal unless its doing it for no good reason and there are 100k+ mi on the tranny.

additionally, all kinds of other bullsht can factor into engagement too, basically everything factoring into the idle.
rebuilding your tranny, swapping solenoids and fluid... thats probably just changing enough sht to hasten the re-learn and rid you of what is most likely a non-problematic symptom which will most likely go away on its own or could definitely be un-learned via preoper maintenance, kam-clear, and proper re-learn

its possible that you could have worn parts, but under ~100k its doubtful. and even with ~100k youre talking abt an abused tranny
 
xford said:
Thanks all - I appreciate all the input. The slight delay I have is minor but I do live in California so I don't think it's retaliated to operating temps as they are not too extreme. I do believe, however, jrand has a point that doing nothing is a viable option. Over the years I have most likely put too much money into this car relative to its actual value in resale and I think 95% of people would do nothing based on the small delay. That said "value" is subjective and I still love this car and don't mind putting more money in it (the recent coilover installation kind of got me fired up again). At this point my intention is to "drive the wheels off" this car.... 2006 with 95k miles and I still get compliments that it looks new. I will work on this repair in the next month and let everyone know how it goes. Touching the trans always has the possibility of being a mistake!
Click to expand...

in the midwest i experience it at whatever temp changes the initial idle... in late summer/fall it does it when the temp suddenly drops to 50. late fall/winter it will do it when temps suddenly drop to 20 and again if it suddenly drops to 0 or below. there are no problems when it is exposed to temps warmer than it was previously adjusted to but it will have problems in spring if it is say 50 for a day and then back to 20 the next. running different octanes of fuel plays hell with it as well.

the best thing to do is pay attn to rpms before you move the lever out of P. if you accidentally shift before rpms settle to 'norm' then turn the car off, remove key, and try again. i find that not turning the car off after it initally engages in a strange way will cause weird shifts, whereas just turning it off and trying again prevents the weird shifts and usually prevents the kam from acquiring odd data and factoring it into its shift-timing equations <or 'completely destroying' a shift solenoid, according to the guys who throw parts at their car everytime they acquire kam data they dislike>
 
xford said:
Thanks all - I appreciate all the input. The slight delay I have is minor but I do live in California so I don't think it's retaliated to operating temps as they are not too extreme. I do believe, however, jrand has a point that doing nothing is a viable option. Over the years I have most likely put too much money into this car relative to its actual value in resale and I think 95% of people would do nothing based on the small delay. That said "value" is subjective and I still love this car and don't mind putting more money in it (the recent coilover installation kind of got me fired up again). At this point my intention is to "drive the wheels off" this car.... 2006 with 95k miles and I still get compliments that it looks new. I will work on this repair in the next month and let everyone know how it goes. Touching the trans always has the possibility of being a mistake!
Click to expand...

Luckily the trans is a shared part with other Ford vehicles that were produced in the hundreds of thousands, so the transmission will be very well supported for both repair and replacement. I believe I saw a new replacement trans listed on Tasca for 2600 bucks, with a thousand dollar core.
 
jrand said:
try to follow along here:
you drive your car everyday. if the ambient temp is, say, ~70 degrees for 4 months straight, and then, all of a sudden, the ambient temp drops to, say, ~22 degrees... every auto-tranny LS will have a 'slight delay' when shifting the first time <and maybe even a handful of times> when the ambient temp plunges like that. the tranny is pressure sensitive, so anything affecting the pressures will change the 'feel' of engagements. its probably not a big deal unless its doing it for no good reason and there are 100k+ mi on the tranny.

additionally, all kinds of other bullsht can factor into engagement too, basically everything factoring into the idle.
rebuilding your tranny, swapping solenoids and fluid... thats probably just changing enough sht to hasten the re-learn and rid you of what is most likely a non-problematic symptom which will most likely go away on its own or could definitely be un-learned via preoper maintenance, kam-clear, and proper re-learn

its possible that you could have worn parts, but under ~100k its doubtful. and even with ~100k youre talking abt an abused tranny
Click to expand...

Yeah you re probably right, I mean my torn up servo bores and the shredded planetary gears are probably just temp changes... If he has worn parts like the servo bores, then the metal went somewhere, maybe into the planetary gears and sheered off the teeth, of course just unplugging the battery fixes that.
My anecdotal evidence just above is as useless as yours. There should not be any kind of delay.

Extraordinary claims require extraordinary evidence.

Do you know the lower limit of the line pressure, also do you know at what temperature transfluid would slow the molecules in the trans fluid enough to become more dense and then lower the pressure. And why would there be a delay if the car is up to temp, you can't honestly think ambient air temp is lowering trans fluid enough to effect this change. I don't know if some mechanic touched you when you where young, but jesus you are more afraid to actually fix anything than anyone else I know.
 
I wish that the ignore list would also blank out where others quote him. Now I have more nonsense to get out of my head somehow...
 
XFord,

The solenoid packs in these cars were know to be problematic at times. The part number you list is the current one for an "updated" part,,, as was told to me by the parts manager at my local dealer a year ago. I would first recommend a fluid and filter(s) change, along with the solenoid pack replacement... and see how the car acts after that. This alone will be roughly $500 in parts.

Sounds like you are planning on doing the work yourself???

If so... don't forget that the tranny fills from the bottom, and that you need the OTC part #6604 fill adapter. Also... the fill plug is inside the drain plug,,, and usually froze up. You will most likely need some PB Blaster and a propane torch to get the fill plug out of the drain plug. If you don't want to deal with that, the drain/fill tube assembly is part #4W4Z-7A010AA, and will run $10-$15. It's a non-stock item,,, so order it and get it in hand before you sevice the tranny.

Lastly... I am desperatley waiting for a break from work,,, so I can do the same to my trans. Not wanting to hand pump multiple quarts of fluid,,, I purchased an Airtex E8016 12v fuel pump for the fluid transfer. 2.5-4.5 PSI @ .5 gpm. While not recommended for this application, I have been told that it will work for trans fluid.
 
04_Sport_LS said:
XFord,

The solenoid packs in these cars were know to be problematic at times. The part number you list is the current one for an "updated" part,,, as was told to me by the parts manager at my local dealer a year ago. I would first recommend a fluid and filter(s) change, along with the solenoid pack replacement... and see how the car acts after that. This alone will be roughly $500 in parts.

Sounds like you are planning on doing the work yourself???

If so... don't forget that the tranny fills from the bottom, and that you need the OTC part #6604 fill adapter. Also... the fill plug is inside the drain plug,,, and usually froze up. You will most likely need some PB Blaster and a propane torch to get the fill plug out of the drain plug. If you don't want to deal with that, the drain/fill tube assembly is part #4W4Z-7A010AA, and will run $10-$15. It's a non-stock item,,, so order it and get it in hand before you sevice the tranny.

Lastly... I am desperatley waiting for a break from work,,, so I can do the same to my trans. Not wanting to hand pump multiple quarts of fluid,,, I purchased an Airtex E8016 12v fuel pump for the fluid transfer. 2.5-4.5 PSI @ .5 gpm. While not recommended for this application, I have been told that it will work for trans fluid.
Click to expand...

There is also a fill port on the rear of the transmission, on the passenger side just over the transmission, if you don't want to buy that fill plug thing. You'll still need the plug in the bottom of the pan removed though as this is how you get the correct fluid level. Start the car, let it warm up, then open the port and let fluid run out. When the fluid stops draining and kinda spurts out the level is correct. When you take the pan off, you'll see that the plug is connected to a 2-3 inch tube which is why this works. I think it's an ingenious yet perverted way of checking the trans fluid level because it requires you to unsafely be under the car while it is both jacked up on all 4 tires yet running, and you know it's full of fluid when it stops draining, when all they really had to do was install a dip stick tube.

There is a video that shows how they take the solenoid wiring harness off the car, but that video is being shot on a Ford Explorer with a much larger trans tunnel than the LS has. I tried doing that, but you have to have little girl hands to get up in there. I wound up drilling two holes with a 1 inch holesaw one beside the other in the trans tunnel which gave me direct access to the bolt on top of the plug. It also made it possible to get the plug back on the solenoid because there is no way I could have gotten that plug back on from underneath the car.
 
Good advice Telco. I forgot about the other fill port. I would also recommend having some dielectric grease on hand for the solenoid plug to inhibit corrosion.
 
Telco don't do "dielectric" grease! :p
 
yea i dont waste my time 'fixing' sht that aint broken. maybe your tranny is wrecked, but just bc something has a delayed engagement doesnt mean its fcked up and needs replaced... thats horrid advice, esp when theres electronic sht he can rule out for free and not even bother turning a wrench other than the one on the battery terminal. tranny is electronically controlled and it 'learns'.. if it gets significantly colder than it was the day before, your tranny is going to engage slower than it did the day before unless you let it warm up to full op temp everytime <which is a waste of gas and you should not be doing>. keep in mind the temp gauge on the dash panel and the temp of the tranny are two diff sensors. and your tranny aint gonna warm up as fast as the motor.

if you shift the lever before the tranny gets up to the temp/pressures it has 'learned' as its 'normal' it will engage differently/slower. additionally, it will toss the tranny into a 'learn' phase, which can be expedited by shifting thru the gears a few times or completely clearing the previous kam and starting anew <tho i do not recommend doing so when if its below 40F due to the sensors required to clear p1000 having a min temp of 40F to reset properly>

kinda funny that you insinuate gay sht and then immediately get on your knees for your bf hoe-gur: "im soooo sorry hoe-gurr.. how can i make all better baby" -you
 
and additionally, youre gonna have a few more rpms at idle when the temp plunges. more rpm when you move the lever = harsher/slower/'different' engagement. its not throwing a code or an error for a reason.. its still technically in spec. its just not within YOUR spec. if you dont like it, change it. theres many ways to skin a cat. OP would be better served buying a fckin chip and tweaking that sht himself than wasting money and time replacing crap that probably isnt even broke, just receiving bad data/control from the computer
but you old dogs are too busy apologizing to each other, patting each other on the back, and replacing sht that aint broke to figure out how a buggy 15 yrs old on board computer works and how you can work around its limitations and flaws
 
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