Stearing wheel vibration 03 LS

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rdm

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I just purchased a 03 LS with 65,000 miles- tires are brand new along with all new Preminum Centric rotors and pads on front and rear. I am getting a vibration in the steering wheel that starts at about 70 mph-checked tire balance and they were all ok-what should I be looking for to solve this problem? Thanks Rick
 
Control arm, ball joints, wheal bearing/hub assembly. Welcoming to the world of LS ownership!
 
You may want to try having the wheels road-force balanced. That may either fix it or identify any bent rims.

I had a similar issue fixed this way.
 
joegr said:
You may want to try having the wheels road-force balanced. That may either fix it or identify any bent rims.

I had a similar issue fixed this way.
Click to expand...

Joegr, what is this mystery balancing you speak of. I kind of grasp it but not entirely sure, and is this achievable at most tire places.

I ask because like the OP I am having a similar issue at highway speeds after my wheels were "balanced". Fing live oaks grads at Firestone.
 
Control arm, ball joints, wheal bearing/hub assembly. Welcoming to the world of LS ownership!
Click to expand...

Don't forget the steering rack bushings. :shifty:

Pull the front wheels, and check the lateral, (side to side), runout at the wheel hub. The previous owner, may have hit a pothole the size of the Grand Canyon, and bent the hub, (and or rim).

Also... How "new" are the tires? If 10k or so on new, and you have some scuffing on the tread, (feel peaks and valleys at an angle with your hand), then you may need a front end alignment. The previous owner may not have done this. If the tires are worn at a taper, (from inside to outside), you may have bad ball joints, or your springs may have settled due to age. Then, (with spring settling), you may need a "cam bolt alignment kit". The slightest bit of odd tire wear on this vehicle, can cause an ungodly amount of shimmy in the car at higher speeds.
 
Broseph said:
Joegr, what is this mystery balancing you speak of. I kind of grasp it but not entirely sure, and is this achievable at most tire places.

I ask because like the OP I am having a similar issue at highway speeds after my wheels were "balanced". Fing live oaks grads at Firestone.
Click to expand...

It's a better way to balance the tires that puts load on the tire while balancing and takes the shape of the tire into account. A Google search will tell you about it. Ford recommends road force balancing in one of the TSBs about shake/vibration on the LS.

You can use this site to find shops in your area that can do it.
http://www.gsp9700.com/search/findgsp9700.cfm
 
I have had the suspension completly rebuilt on my car in the past six months. Everything was changed springs, control arms ,hubs, bearings, tie rods, sway bar bushings, ball joints, tires and and a 4 wheel alignment. My steering wheel still shimmies between 65-70. I think these cars reach resonant frequency at that speed. Good luck trying to locate the source, many have tried and I don't think I've heard a definitive answer . If you solve the problem please post your results. Good Luck
 
REDBED said:
I have had the suspension completly rebuilt on my car in the past six months. Everything was changed springs, control arms ,hubs, bearings, tie rods, sway bar bushings, ball joints, tires and and a 4 wheel alignment. My steering wheel still shimmies between 65-70. I think these cars reach resonant frequency at that speed. Good luck trying to locate the source, many have tried and I don't think I've heard a definitive answer . If you solve the problem please post your results. Good Luck
Click to expand...

What wheels?
 
LS4me said:
Stock or aftermarket wheels?
Click to expand...

very important question...

Before you go and rebuild your suspension you might look into whether or not the wheels fit correctly on the hub, or if they require hub-centric rings for a perfect fit. This can cause a vibration. Not expensive to have the rings made, and very easy to install.

so are they stock or aftermarket?
 
REDBED said:
I have had the suspension completly rebuilt on my car in the past six months. Everything was changed springs, control arms ,hubs, bearings, tie rods, sway bar bushings, ball joints, tires and and a 4 wheel alignment. My steering wheel still shimmies between 65-70. I think these cars reach resonant frequency at that speed. Good luck trying to locate the source, many have tried and I don't think I've heard a definitive answer . If you solve the problem please post your results. Good Luck
Click to expand...

What brand of tires?
Anyone look at the bushings that hold the steering rack on?
 
I have never had the rims checked. The tires are Hankook(sp). I visually checked the rack bushings when car was up on lift and didn't see any signs of failure, but that doesn't mean they aren't worn out. When ball joints were changed at 95k there was a great improvement but the wheel shimmie still there, just greatly reduced. I need to get the transmisson solenoid changed and my rear window defroster doesn't work after I just replaced the two front door window regulators. You have to prioritize the maint. budget.
 
I second the steering rack bushings as being a possible cause, when those go bad they allow vibration to be transmitted directly up the steering shaft (obviously since it's connected directly to it). I'm not sure how hard it would be to change them out on our cars, but at least the parts should be pretty cheap...
 
REDBED said:
...When ball joints were changed at 95k there was a great improvement but the wheel shimmie still there, just greatly reduced. ...
Click to expand...

Did you change the tires at the same time, or since then? It could be that the suspension problems caused tire wear that is now causing the shimmy to remain.
 
rdm and REDBED,

I'm guessing that the vibration is worse, when you first start driving, then lessens after a few minutes at highway speeds, but never completely goes away. Does this sound about right????
 
Mine is highway driving either cold or at operating temp between 65-70. This seems to be the speed that is comon to all the complaints.
Hi Joe I did get new tires prior to all the work.
 
i would start by rotating the tires, (front to rear only, no cross rotation), and the take it to one of those tire shops, that checks the alignment for free.
 
Maybe

Swap front tires side to side. retest.

lift front end tires, rock tires top and bottom (should not move) rock tires side to side (should to move)

top and bottom loose - ball joints
side to side loose - steering end links worn out

you may have developed a bad wear pattern on the tire treads, try swapping them to start with.

just my .02
 
Hey guys, for what it's worth, before I purchased my 2006 I looked at a 2003 or 4 can't remember which. At any rate, the owner experianced the same thing the OP and a few others encountered in this thread. Basically the way he fixed this was by doing a High Speed Balance. I thought the guy was joking and this didn't exist until I asked around and it is indeed plasuable. Check it out, let me know if this helps.
 
04_Sport_LS said:
rdm and REDBED,

I'm guessing that the vibration is worse, when you first start driving, then lessens after a few minutes at highway speeds, but never completely goes away. Does this sound about right????
Click to expand...
I have exactly this problem. What do you suggest me to do?
 
Dave and others,

Sorry I didn't get back to this. Life has been busy. I have noticed that all of the posts regarding this, (and some PMs I received), have ALL been in colder climates as winter weather sets in. If the vibration lessens after a few minutes of highway driving, then it is a tire wear issue,,, caused at some point by improper alignment. Think about it for a moment... As the tires warm up, the rubber becomes softer and conforms better to the road. Also keep in mind that the tire rotaion schedule is every 5000 miles. That's basically every oil change.

My 50k rated tires now have 60k on them, and are definitely into the wear indicators. I bought the last set from the dealer, because they price matched a local tire shop, and there was a rebate going on at the time by the manufacturer. I just called the dealer, and they will do the same price match on the tires as last time. On top of that they charge no more than other tire stores for mount and balance... and the dealer does Road Force Balance their tires. Whereas the local tire shop wants a $10 upcharge per tire for road force balancing, and only does it on certain days when the trained personnel is in the shop.

Being extremely happy with the current tires,,, I am getting the same ones. Conti Extreme Contact DWS. 4 of them OTD for $766.12,,, plus another $75 for a 4 wheel alignment. With proper rotaion,,, they should outlast the car, (which if it makes it that long will have 200k on the clock).

I'll say this again... Make nice with your local dealer,,, and if they don't want to play, then find another that will. There will be times when they are the better deal. This goes for parts too. Not just for discounts,,, but for better/improved/redesigned parts. I am finding this to be more true as of late.

A few months back,,, a brake hose ruptured on my son's Escape. All 4 were shot. I called the dealer, and they had a superseded part that was redesigned, for just a few dollars more than the LPS. Unfortunately,,, the vehicle had to be back on the road before the dealer could get the parts in. So I eneded up going to the LPS,,, and the hoses they had were exactly the same as what was on the vehicle. so they will have to be changed again in a few years.

Just because the LPS has parts that are OEM design... doesen't mean they are the "latest design".
 
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