Stock Sterero On the LS

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LQ1906

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Has anyone kept their stock 6-disc in dash changer but changed out the speakers and/or added a amp and subwoofer? Also I want bluetooth to play my music and talk on the phone. Is there a way that this can be done or would it be best to just change out the head unit and buy a aftermarket bluetooth/cd player? I have the standard Audiophile system and not the THX.

I saw a few previous threads which seem like it's difficult to add a cd kit as it doesn't fit flush and other issues and some issues when changing the speakers. So I thought maybe it's better to keep head unit and just add subwoofer and/or amp
 
You have factory subs. If they aren't working, you can replace the two subs at a reasonable cost. If you just don't like them, then you can replace the subs and sub amp. There are several options there. The door speakers are easy to replace as well.

If you want Bluetooth, then the best choice is to go with an aftermarket head unit. It is pretty easy to do now that there are double-din kits. My experience is that the 7" tilt screens with the CD behind the screen come out flush, and the 6.?" screens with the CD slot up top are a little inset. You will lose the center console speakers, but that's not really a loss at all.

BTW, you have set aside money for a complete cooling system change out as well as money for eight factory coils (COPs) and eight spark plugs, right? I'd get the transmission issue resolved first as well.
 
joegr said:
BTW, you have set aside money for a complete cooling system change out as well as money for eight factory coils (COPs) and eight spark plugs, right? I'd get the transmission issue resolved first as well.
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What joe is sharing with you is that this should be part of your package of getting to know the baseline of the car. I already mentioned all fluids changed over, the cops and plugs are wearable items that turn south around 100k so its good to start all clean and fresh, and of course you had to of seen about plastic parts on the cooling system.

These are a decent audio system, and if you want to spend a little there, start with the 4 speakers first. Good quality audiophile speakers installed correctly will improve the sound a bit. From there you may decide to only change out the head unit - unless you want to go all out, but then you should definitely get all the mechanical stuff clean first like joe suggests.

I never thought I would be goin north of 10k expense for my car cost, and repairs lol.
 
LQ1906 said:
Has anyone kept their stock 6-disc in dash changer but changed out the speakers and/or added a amp and subwoofer? Also I want bluetooth to play my music and talk on the phone. Is there a way that this can be done or would it be best to just change out the head unit and buy a aftermarket bluetooth/cd player? I have the standard Audiophile system and not the THX.

I saw a few previous threads which seem like it's difficult to add a cd kit as it doesn't fit flush and other issues and some issues when changing the speakers. So I thought maybe it's better to keep head unit and just add subwoofer and/or amp
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I added all new speakers (including Pioneer 6X9 4-ways where the subs would go; I didn't have them) and an amp in my 2000 with the base system. Wasn't too bad of a job, just a lot of wiring as the stock HU has no outputs. I ran wires from the factory harness behind the HU to the new amp in the trunk and back to the harness behind the HU.
 
grizzlyls said:
What joe is sharing with you is that this should be part of your package of getting to know the baseline of the car. I already mentioned all fluids changed over, the cops and plugs are wearable items that turn south around 100k so its good to start all clean and fresh, and of course you had to of seen about plastic parts on the cooling system.

These are a decent audio system, and if you want to spend a little there, start with the 4 speakers first. Good quality audiophile speakers installed correctly will improve the sound a bit. From there you may decide to only change out the head unit - unless you want to go all out, but then you should definitely get all the mechanical stuff clean first like joe suggests.

I never thought I would be goin north of 10k expense for my car cost, and repairs lol.
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I got a question on that, yes I know that the coils go out but do they throw a CEL or is it just the normal sputtering, shaking, vibration, etc???
I called Ford Customer Care and they told me that there is a warranty of sorts called a Customer Satisfaction Program on the Ignition Coil Assemblies and Valve Cover Gaskets (07M07) and also for the Ignition Coil Covers and Wiper Motor Bracket Seal (07N09). Has anyone heard of this? If so how can I get these items covered when there is no problem currently but the trans issue?
 
LQ1906 said:
I got a question on that, yes I know that the coils go out but do they throw a CEL or is it just the normal sputtering, shaking, vibration, etc???
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Not a mech expert, but what I can tell from reading here the trouble is if you get to the point where a CEL or any of those symptoms come up you are already likely doing damage to the cats and/or PCM. Its just better to take the preventive maintenance route with these.

Havn't heard anything about the rest. My thoughts would be the time frame with legal liability as to whether any warranty was still in affect. Maybe someone else has insight.

Also, you may get lucky. If someone did change them all, then you wont have too. I had receipts where a mech had changed 3 cops, and all plugs. Sad thing was that mech also hacked up the wiring harnesses on one side, and the gasket was still leaking due to half the bolts on the covers stripped and half missing. Its best just to replace them all and start clean like we talked about, when you do. You or someone can inspect the area to get a feel how pressing this is.
 
LQ1906 said:
I got a question on that, yes I know that the coils go out but do they throw a CEL or is it just the normal sputtering, shaking, vibration, etc???
I called Ford Customer Care and they told me that there is a warranty of sorts called a Customer Satisfaction Program on the Ignition Coil Assemblies and Valve Cover Gaskets (07M07) and also for the Ignition Coil Covers and Wiper Motor Bracket Seal (07N09). Has anyone heard of this? If so how can I get these items covered when there is no problem currently but the trans issue?
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A marginal coil will not throw a code until it's too late. A failed coil will kill downstream component. You will also have to do the plugs at the same time. They must be replaced as a unit. The first sign is a slight miss under load; low RPM, low speed and either a slight incline or gently accelerating.

Those other programs have long since expired.
 
yea I was told by Ford that I still had the warranty per se in effect until I hit 100,000 miles as they asked me how many miles I had and for the VIN number. When i gave it to them thats when they told me about the program and so I was hoping that I could go to a Ford Service tech and see if they would do them for me. The most they could say would be no
 
Dam! I bought my car in march with 99,9xx. If I had known, could have drove straight to the dealership! Heck go for it, dealers love warranty money.

If they go for it, just make sure they do all eight, and give you a receipt for it. I think that kicks in a new three year warranty on those parts specific, at least two year. Motorcraft parts are 2 but I think when dealer installed it goes 3.
 
Right, so Im wondering 1. Is this still valid 2. If it is how can I get my vehicle covered under this when I have no symptoms that are showing such as CEL or noticable otherwise. My thought has always been that dealers DID NOT like warranty work because it takes them too long to get paid as opposed to a paying customer. What should I say if I go to the dealership?
 
It was for 2003 to 2005 only. It was for 100K miles or 10 years, whichever came first. The 10 years has run out on everyone.
 
:mad: Well damn aint that about a bitch....i wonder why Ford would tell me that then lol. I'm mad as hell as I was hoping I could get that replaced but first things first.....this trans issue. Yea im taking it to a transmission shop in the morning. It shifts hard from Park to Reverse and also when going from 2nd to 3rd i think and maybe 5th to 6th but not as much. I have been driving it to work which is under 10 miles but I don't know how long I can get away with driving it in this condition before something goes bad or the transmission is shot. One thing to mention though, this shop that Im taking the car to told me that doing a flush and fill will make the issue worse since the dirty fluid will be recycled through the trans....is this true? Because it didn't make sense to me at all???
 
LS4me said:
A marginal coil will not throw a code until it's too late ...
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Now now ... you know very well I can get it to throw a flashing misfire detected CEL during a hard WOT pull in the same drive cycle with an OBDII reader on the fly. As long as you get a read on it before it falls back within it's 2% allowable tolerance. Basically a non-dealership marginal coil stress test.

BUT as already mentioned, 500$ all new OEM Ford DG529 coil on plugs along with NGK iridium plugs correctly gapped at .040 = fresh start, good for the next 100k or so.

LQ, if you are not experiencing any rough idle or noticable misfiring at this time then don't worry yourself about any missed warranties, they'd only replace any one coil that proves faulty during their stress test on a scope and wouldn't even change a single plug. This would only result in a bunch of mismatched aged coils under the covers.

Ignition, cooling system, suspension and linkages, trans, brakes, tires THEN tint, wheels, speakers, subs etc.

Doesn't mean it all needs replacing, just area's you should get to know, understand, have looked at or look at yourself. Lot of these repairs one can do themselves without having to fork over cash to shops or dealerships.

Up to you of course. Can always rely on knowledgeable help from LvC
 
LQ1906 said:
:mad: Well damn aint that about a bitch....i wonder why Ford would tell me that then lol. I'm mad as hell as I was hoping I could get that replaced but first things first.....this trans issue. Yea im taking it to a transmission shop in the morning. It shifts hard from Park to Reverse and also when going from 2nd to 3rd i think and maybe 5th to 6th but not as much. I have been driving it to work which is under 10 miles but I don't know how long I can get away with driving it in this condition before something goes bad or the transmission is shot. One thing to mention though, this shop that Im taking the car to told me that doing a flush and fill will make the issue worse since the dirty fluid will be recycled through the trans....is this true? Because it didn't make sense to me at all???
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Your symptoms are EXACTLY like mine, which turned out to be the shift kit springs as mentioned. You can read my old threads for more. To be fair though, there was another new owner 3 or 4 months ago with similar shift issues, and he did the PCM. Still, like it is about reliable shop. That sentence was your clue to walk away. That shop would rather swap (or not) for max profit. Keep coming to us with conversations like that if you want a second opinion/set of 'eyes' about the shop.
 
LS4me said:
Dealers HATE warranty money; at least Ford dealers do. Warranty work pays half book/customer pay time.
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Clarify my statement:

They like warranty money because thats all they can get from what I see here in CA. New cars only in the bays. $150 to $200 shop rate, padding for cleanup, not to mention book is padded for all (including the independents) means not many can afford a repair there anymore.

$3000 bucks to replace the timing chains on my car, 3 dealerships the same qoute even when 1 discounted the labor rate but inflated the 'official' hours. Yea right. Mech I chose knew book time, and said if it takes me that long he should retire!
 
Grizzly, what is this shift kit springs in a stock OEM trans you speak off ? Sure you not referring to the shift solenoid?
 
So just an update 10/21. Took it to Precision Transmission and they called me later this afternoon saying that there were no codes being thrown from neither the engine or transmission which I had already told them that when I was asked and again when I filled out the release form. So they advised that it was shifting hard in reverse and in 4th gear. And that I needed to get it looked at sooner than later since when it shifts hard it builds up pressure and will eventually get worse. They quoted me $1500 to remove and reinstall the transmission which is the equivalent to a rebuild if you ask me but then advised that if they found other things like converter needs replacing or servos etc it would be more. I said ok thanks and drove my car home. They also said they doubt its the PCM because usually that will throw a code. This was a independent shop.
 
LQ1906 said:
...They also said they doubt its the PCM because usually that will throw a code. This was a independent shop.
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So, they are incompetent or crooked...
Usually with the LS, no codes means it is either the PCM or a mechanical issue with the transmission. (sticking solenoid, bad spring, ...) Either way, there is no need to remove the transmission.
 
Believe it or not, you are actually doing the right things. Getting to know their approach. You at least now know there are no codes (I think they would have used to sell you if there). Sadly like joe says another strike out. On to the next shop.
 
Ok, I guess I need to try and find another shop. Even if it's the PCM, I guess I will have to find someone to take that out so that I can send it in for repair. I wanted to get new speakers and possibly a powered sub and small amp to put in the trunk so that I can hear my speakers just a little more. Might be on hold until further notice now.

On another note, I've tried searching the forum for the ash tray fix and can't find it. I have to hurry and fix that because it not able to stay closed is annoying the hell out of me. Everyday I push it in several times hoping that it will eventually catch but to no avail and I've now watched many Youtube videos of Lincoln LS and many of their ash trays are open as hell
 
BigRigLS said:
Grizzly, what is this shift kit springs in a stock OEM trans you speak off ? Sure you not referring to the shift solenoid?
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Sorry BR, just saw this question. And LQ asked too, so will share here. Around here for many years performance guys referred to the springs in the valve body as a 'shift kit'. What they would do is buy different kits for different shift feels/performance. What was wrong with mine was weak springs. Mech ordered a 'TRANSGO shift kit' and its all good now. It is basically all the little springs and such in the valve body in one pack.
 
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