I have a 2000 LS bought new so it is a new problem. The horn alarm and 2 second engine kill has activated twice in about 2 months. It eventually starts and is ok, but is a real pain. I have tried 2 different keys when it happens with the same results, so it is not the key. Is there a way to disable this feature or will it mess something else up? Any help is appreciated.
theft alarm
- Thread starter phohl
- Start date
G-RELL
FULLY DIPPED LS
how have you only posted twice in 7 1/2 years 
Welcome?... Back?!?
twice in two months isnt very often. is the battery draining?
Welcome?... Back?!?
twice in two months isnt very often. is the battery draining?
joegr
Dedicated LVC Member
There' no practical way to disable it.
It sounds like you may have a weak/failing battery. Many auto stores will load test your battery for free. If it's more than four years old, it's going to fail the test.
It sounds like you may have a weak/failing battery. Many auto stores will load test your battery for free. If it's more than four years old, it's going to fail the test.
G-RELL
FULLY DIPPED LS
see ya in a couple years....
jmtiseo
The Peanut Gallery
Literally lol'd
Elemino
Dedicated LVC Member
Factory Alarm
Sorry to bring back this old post, but it may be relevant to my question.
I went to pop the trunk the other day, and it opens just fine. Seconds later, the factory alarm goes off. The Viper alarm is cool, because it knows the trunk is supposed to be open.
Joegr are you saying there is no way to disable the factory alarm? I don't need its protection anymore. The Viper has me covered.
Sorry to bring back this old post, but it may be relevant to my question.
Got my Viper alarm installed this week, and true to LS fashion the car was a nightmare / 5 day job for the very experienced installers.
I went to pop the trunk the other day, and it opens just fine. Seconds later, the factory alarm goes off. The Viper alarm is cool, because it knows the trunk is supposed to be open.
Joegr are you saying there is no way to disable the factory alarm? I don't need its protection anymore. The Viper has me covered.
1LoudLS
Dedicated LVC Member
you installer might not have hook up the factory alarm dis-arm wire up correctly, or the system does not have the option to pulse the disarm wire when opening the trunk.
this wire in the car serves three purposes,
1, disarms the factory system
2, unlocks the doors
3, rolls down the windows
so from the R/S systems brain you need to have three different wires connect to it and isolated with three diodes,
the first wire is your disarm pulse, if they did not do this right it should set the OEM alarm off when you Remote start the car,
the second wire is the unlock wire that should be programmed to two pulses so that it unlocks all of the doors the first time you press the unlock button. the third wire should be for an optional channel on the R/S system (optional for window control) and should be programmed to around 18-20 seconds and will simulate holding the key turned in the drivers door cylinder and will roll all of you windows down
the same should be done for the R/S systems lock, factory alarm arm, and another Aux channel to roll all of the windows up (something the stupid factory system cant do)
the wires in the car are the wires that go from the key cylinder in the drivers door (lock and unlock detection) to the Drivers Door Module.
now if it was hooked up but it still goes off, either it wasn't programmed to pulse right or it doesn't support that option and hitting un-lock on the system will also disable the factory alarm before you press to open the trunk.
5 days is totally unacceptable, especially for an experienced installer, My first LS took around 13 hours and that was figuring everything out like you need an extra relay for the ignition wiring, fuel door pop, the door trigger wire, and figuring out how to incorporate the factory window control. the second was done in around 8 and there was still differences to figure out because of it being a different generation ,while the LS is a little more complicated than most other cars, it is still a ford and pretty much the same as all new ford systems like the fusion, edge, taurus, F-series... the work is exactly the same with the exception that some of the wires are inside the drivers door and at the trunk modules instead of all at the SJB in other cars.
this wire in the car serves three purposes,
1, disarms the factory system
2, unlocks the doors
3, rolls down the windows
so from the R/S systems brain you need to have three different wires connect to it and isolated with three diodes,
the first wire is your disarm pulse, if they did not do this right it should set the OEM alarm off when you Remote start the car,
the second wire is the unlock wire that should be programmed to two pulses so that it unlocks all of the doors the first time you press the unlock button. the third wire should be for an optional channel on the R/S system (optional for window control) and should be programmed to around 18-20 seconds and will simulate holding the key turned in the drivers door cylinder and will roll all of you windows down
the same should be done for the R/S systems lock, factory alarm arm, and another Aux channel to roll all of the windows up (something the stupid factory system cant do)
the wires in the car are the wires that go from the key cylinder in the drivers door (lock and unlock detection) to the Drivers Door Module.
now if it was hooked up but it still goes off, either it wasn't programmed to pulse right or it doesn't support that option and hitting un-lock on the system will also disable the factory alarm before you press to open the trunk.
5 days is totally unacceptable, especially for an experienced installer, My first LS took around 13 hours and that was figuring everything out like you need an extra relay for the ignition wiring, fuel door pop, the door trigger wire, and figuring out how to incorporate the factory window control. the second was done in around 8 and there was still differences to figure out because of it being a different generation ,while the LS is a little more complicated than most other cars, it is still a ford and pretty much the same as all new ford systems like the fusion, edge, taurus, F-series... the work is exactly the same with the exception that some of the wires are inside the drivers door and at the trunk modules instead of all at the SJB in other cars.
1LoudLS
Dedicated LVC Member
now there is usually an issue with the viper alarm going off instead of the OEM alarm because of the way the door triggers are not comparable with the viper system, you are supposed to hook the door triggers up to the dome light wire, and the dome light wires comes on with anything done to the car. either way unlocking the car before opening the trunk should keep it from happening
Elemino
Dedicated LVC Member
Remote start works. The OEM alarm disarms with unlock and everything else. They setup aux 2 and 3 (level 1 and 2) to work the windows up and down, but I wish I had thought to use another channel for the fuel door. It doesn't disarm the OEM alarm for trunk pop... maybe that needs to be programmed? I'm not sure, but it works fine if the doors are unlocked first though.
For the doors he used a relay to trigger the alarm, because the system was having false alarms.
For the most part, everything works fine now. The only remaining issue is the light flash. When on remote start, the lights activate, and for some reason it disables the autolamps. Meaning the headlights turn off on remote start... the problem comes in when you unlock the door, because the headlights flash... (and I have factory HID)
For the doors he used a relay to trigger the alarm, because the system was having false alarms.
For the most part, everything works fine now. The only remaining issue is the light flash. When on remote start, the lights activate, and for some reason it disables the autolamps. Meaning the headlights turn off on remote start... the problem comes in when you unlock the door, because the headlights flash... (and I have factory HID)
1LoudLS
Dedicated LVC Member
as long as it is disarming for everything else, they must have hooked it up, i would have them check the settings and make sure it is programmed right
yes, there is a high resistance to ground after the computers fall asleep that causes the false alarms, this also causes LED interior lights to glow slightly.
this should be fixable, i think you have to use an extra relay to break a wire for the auto headlight to get the parking lights to flash correctly
Elemino
Dedicated LVC Member
I think I will Install 1 or more relays which will turn the lights on at the bulbs, and hopefully bypass the switch all together. May take some diodes to work, but I think I can fix it. I'll be installing relays on the front bulbs anyway to get my switchbacks to work.
Elemino
Dedicated LVC Member
I spoke too early about the remote start. Now when you hit the button the factory alarm goes off... I'll have to speak to them about that.
Elemino
Dedicated LVC Member
If it wasn't so late, I'd look into this more... but I think I spoke too soon. It was the Viper alarm that goes off. Apparently when you hit the remote start button, something makes the alarm think the trunk is open. I'm not sure how he wired that, but I would think a simple connection to the trunk switch would have worked. Maybe another diode is in order.
1LoudLS
Dedicated LVC Member
the R/S trunk trigger wire should be connected to the negative trigger wire for the trunk light. when the trunk opens, the light comes on, the alarm senses and goes off.
remote starting the car should never show up as a trunk trigger.
remote starting the car should never show up as a trunk trigger.
Elemino
Dedicated LVC Member
I talked to him tonight, and he told me he connected to some module back there DEI recommended. He's going to look at it Saturday, and possibly just switch to using the wiring from the switch itself to trigger.