Thermostat housing problem...

Motodrew

Well-Known LVC Member
Joined
Nov 11, 2005
Messages
234
Reaction score
0
Location
Council Bluffs
So I just got done changing my thermostat couple days ago and today its leaking out of the housing. After investigation I found that one of the 3 screws that holds the thermostat housing together was the problem. There are copper caps molded into the plastic for the screws to bolt in and one was stripped. So i'm gonna have to try the dealership tomorrow to see if they can get me another and then I'll have to possibly cement it in there. I'd hate to have to take off that whole thing and replace it... CRAP!!!
 
Well the dealership had the thermostat assembly for $80, but they suggested just getting a longer screw and put a nut on the backside. So I got it all rigged up with a lock-nut and couple washers and so far this morning she's holding strong. I'm going to take a trip to the bank and see how she works out....

i'll let ya know if it works when i get back...
 
back from the bank...

Haha. Well its now a couple days later and everything is working out smoothly. No temperature spikes or signs of any fluid loss. I would suggest when replacing the thermostat to not torque the 3 bolts too tight. You may run into my similar issue if you do so...
 
Does n e one know where the thermostat is on an 01 LS with the V8 i have to change mine but would like to know for sure where it is. N e pics would be help full too thankx in advanced
 
the t-stat is located in the cooler tower housing, attached at the end of the lower rad hose. it's held on with three 8mm bolts.

t-stat.JPG
 
Thanks for the pics Quik Ls very help full it should be a breeze now that i know where it is for sure.
 
Dammit man i am so frustrated i changed the coolant bottle and the thermostat and it still over heats what can it be now?????Some say air how can i bleed the air out????
 
Dammit man i am so frustrated i changed the coolant bottle and the thermostat and it still over heats what can it be now?????Some say air how can i bleed the air out????

Diagnose: If you hear a snappy bubbling sound coming up from the reserve it is most surely air. You may have to bleed more than once to remove all of the air.:cool:

:shifty: Ok here goes. You see the diagram on the above post,(the picture)? ok good. Now look at the center of the photograph for the black circle cap that is above the place where the thermostat goes, this is the Engine Fill Cap. Now for this part....MAKE SURE THE CAR IS VERY COOL! OK good. :cool: Now, take the engine fill cap off. And remove the water reserve cap up on the drivers side car nearest the windshield.

Make sure you have at least two-three full gallons of water and antifreeze mixed half and half with cold water right by the car before you go any further. If you use warm or hot water it will spray back out. ;)

Ok, now crank the car and pour water/antifreeze into the water reserve to the line for warm just to make sure there is room for the engine to pull some in. NOW VERY SLOWLY and towards the back of the hole to prevent sprayback), fill this Engine Fill hole giving it time to go down and keep filling until it is completely full and seeping out to prevent any air catching when replacing the cap. It may spray out it may not, just make sure it is completely full before replacing the cap. Replace the cap to the engine fill, and the water reserve cap too. Now if all of the air is bled, it should not overheat if this is the problem. You may have to do it more than once to get all of the air out.

I have had to do this to my lincoln ls when there was a radiator leak..when i changed the thermostat and anything that opened the water/antifreeze system such as replacing hoses and such.
 
Diagnose: If you hear a snappy bubbling sound coming up from the reserve it is most surely air. You may have to bleed more than once to remove all of the air.:cool:

:shifty: Ok here goes. You see the diagram on the above post,(the picture)? ok good. Now look at the center of the photograph for the black circle cap that is above the place where the thermostat goes, this is the Engine Fill Cap. Now for this part....MAKE SURE THE CAR IS VERY COOL! OK good. :cool: Now, take the engine fill cap off. And remove the water reserve cap up on the drivers side car nearest the windshield.

Make sure you have at least two-three full gallons of water and antifreeze mixed half and half with cold water right by the car before you go any further. If you use warm or hot water it will spray back out. ;)

Ok, now crank the car and pour water/antifreeze into the water reserve to the line for warm just to make sure there is room for the engine to pull some in. NOW VERY SLOWLY and towards the back of the hole to prevent sprayback), fill this Engine Fill hole giving it time to go down and keep filling until it is completely full and seeping out to prevent any air catching when replacing the cap. It may spray out it may not, just make sure it is completely full before replacing the cap. Replace the cap to the engine fill, and the water reserve cap too. Now if all of the air is bled, it should not overheat if this is the problem. You may have to do it more than once to get all of the air out.

I have had to do this to my lincoln ls when there was a radiator leak..when i changed the thermostat and anything that opened the water/antifreeze system such as replacing hoses and such.
 
The thermostat also has a gasket....I just replaced my thermostat and gasket this weekend (v6 though, so its a little different). With out the gasket I suppose it would leak.
*** Heres a tip for overheating***
After you have warmed the car up and driven it around for about 10 mins, pop the hood , shut the car off, and feel with your hand both the hoses that connect to the thermostat housing. If both are hot then you might not have a faulty thermostat. However, If one hose is cool and the other is hot, then your thermostat is probably not opening and coolant is not circulating through your engine. My friends dad figured that out for me, I think hes a genius.

Good luck.
 
thanks i would have never knew that. is that common on most cars ?

on newer cars it is. the degas bottle has a overflow to it from the top of the t-stat housing, and is at the 'high' point in the system. the design is to have the air collect there - but since there are multiple loops and a couple of pump, air can get trapped in one of the loops behind a pump.
 

Members online

No members online now.
Back
Top