32vmach
Active LVC Member
best run 60' 2.393
330 6.741
1/8 10.188
MPH 71.80
1/4 15.552
MPH 92.55
I hate slow Bristol.
330 6.741
1/8 10.188
MPH 71.80
1/4 15.552
MPH 92.55
I hate slow Bristol.
To the mark to the tack
- Thread starter 32vmach
- Start date
k9t8m
Rollin' Twankies
Thats about what you should expect for a stock mark viii.
32vmach
Active LVC Member
That is what I thought I was coming across in second at 5900. PLus density alt. was 6989' tonight. I need that 4:30 and locker bad
AbrahamLincoln
Dedicated LVC Member
150 wet shot!
the run was crap from the get go. (no offense, just being objective)
a stock mark 8 with a good launch should easily cut 2.20-2.25 60 foots.
were you leaving "off idle" or were you trying to "stall up" against the convertor?
keep in mind that the first 6 inches to the 60 foot clocks are the most important feet during a pass..believe it or not.
Every .1 you pick up in the 60 foot will be .15 at the end of the 1/4.
work on the 60 foots for starters.
describe your launch and staging technique and I can bet you with just some minor adjustments to your process we can drop atleast a tenth out of your 60 foot.
that "kicked the crap" out of the rest of the run.
+1 for you for having that very important information available.
..not many people realize or account for D.A. when making passes and trying to compare them to "other passes" or other peoples passes.
The D.A. here swings from -200 ft to about 2500ft (from winter to summer)
I'm sure if you weren't running at "mile high" altitudes you'd have a low 15, possibly 14.90 car.
Here in houston, historically (1999 to present) I have had a .5 second swing in ET from the "nice cool winter nights, to the dog days of summer".
what I wouldn't give to "go slow" at Bristol..(lol)
32vmach
Active LVC Member
I treid leaving from idle and it got me a 2.515 60 the best run was stalling it to 1000 and spining just a little. I think the D.A is what killed me. I have made many passes down bristol and most every one was having a bad night. I will just go and do the locker and 4:30's that way I won't have to worry about the one wheel wonder. Oh well there is always next time. I just need some practice with this car.
launching at 1K will give you the most consistance launch.
launching at idle, so long as the tires will hold will give you the quickest ET.
I generally stick to my 1K launch RPM just for simplicities sake.
430's are really gonna wake the beast up!
Are you staging "as shallow" as possible?
After you hit the pre-stage light.. STOP, then "gently bump the car" forward until the staged light BARELY turns on.
Pretty sure you're familiar with shallow staging IF your posting DA numbers.. just wanted to make sure.
Give it a shot.. try to concentrate on staging as shallow as possible and launch the car from 1K.
You are turning off traction control {if your car has it} right?
launching at idle, so long as the tires will hold will give you the quickest ET.
I generally stick to my 1K launch RPM just for simplicities sake.
430's are really gonna wake the beast up!
Are you staging "as shallow" as possible?
After you hit the pre-stage light.. STOP, then "gently bump the car" forward until the staged light BARELY turns on.
Pretty sure you're familiar with shallow staging IF your posting DA numbers.. just wanted to make sure.
Give it a shot.. try to concentrate on staging as shallow as possible and launch the car from 1K.
You are turning off traction control {if your car has it} right?
ford nut
Local nut case
Just for conversation XLRVIII when you stage shallow, then your watching the tree, when do you leave for best R/T ?
I leave when I "SEE" the last yellow light.
I dont "watch the lights fall down the tree"..
I STARE INTO the third light and when it comes on.. I go.
that is really the only way to be "consistant".
If you "watch" the tree fall.. then you wind up anticipating when the third yellow comes on, rather than reacting to the actual light.
once you get consistant at leaving off the third yellow light, THEN you can adjust your front tire pressure and or your position in the staged beam to increase or decrease your RT as needed.
The first step it to get 5-6 passes with the SAME RT..
even if it's a crappy RT, so long as they are within .03-.04 of each other.
like .630-.670
I find that every pound I increase or decrease my front tire pressure roughly equals to .020 -.030 and every inch I bump into the decreases my RT by .020-.030
Also for conversations sake...
how your eye picks up the light in the daylight will be about .030 slower than it picks up the light in the darkness.
So if I'm cutting .020-030 {.520-.530) lights in time trials I wont adjust ANYTHING knowing that I will pick up .020-.030 as darkness falls.
Ever notice that races where time trials are run in the daylight and eliminations are run at night, how many of those races are won and lost via redlight?
That is why.
once you get to THAT point, then you can make adjustments and actually FIX a bad RT.
32vmach
Active LVC Member
XLRVIII That was a great explanation for him I was just about to post something like that. I actually got my best et deep staging (for first time people that is when you roll foward till the first stage light just goes off and the last one stays lit.) I liked the way the car spun just enough when I lift 1k when I shawllow staged it ran a 15.706 I think that might be because it was not cooled down and the bandit bikes we running alot and I couldn't get but four runs in. I just wanted to baseline it I know I cold practice more with it and get it down, but i was putting in gears and locker before the next street night so I will just try and get that set up low as possible before I tear into the engine. I think A Mark would sound great with a little 5.0 stroker in it. No one would expect that around here
XLRVIII That was a great explanation for him I was just about to post something like that. I actually got my best et deep staging (for first time people that is when you roll foward till the first stage light just goes off and the last one stays lit.) I liked the way the car spun just enough when I lift 1k when I shawllow staged it ran a 15.706 I think that might be because it was not cooled down and the bandit bikes we running alot and I couldn't get but four runs in. I just wanted to baseline it I know I cold practice more with it and get it down, but i was putting in gears and locker before the next street night so I will just try and get that set up low as possible before I tear into the engine. I think A Mark would sound great with a little 5.0 stroker in it. No one would expect that around here
Deep Staging should give you a quicker RT but a slower ET.
Shallow staging gives your car a longer running start before the timer begins.
The further back you are, the longer the back of your tire will "be in the beam" thus giving a "running start at the clock".
ford nut
Local nut case
Sounds right XLRVIII.
I never have raced anyting that was that slow in a 60 ft.
But leaving as soon as you see the last amber start to light would have been my guess.
I wouldnt care that much about ET as long as I could keep it consistent.Once you get in the habit of deep staging you have to keep doing it, any start line habit needs to be second nature.
Does your track use LED lights or older incandescent lights ?
I wonder how many if any tracks use the older incandescent lights.
I never have raced anyting that was that slow in a 60 ft.
But leaving as soon as you see the last amber start to light would have been my guess.
I wouldnt care that much about ET as long as I could keep it consistent.Once you get in the habit of deep staging you have to keep doing it, any start line habit needs to be second nature.
Does your track use LED lights or older incandescent lights ?
I wonder how many if any tracks use the older incandescent lights.
32vmach
Active LVC Member
But most people aren't running at bristol known to be a slow track and no prep on street nights.
two of the 4 houston tracks use LED lights...
ford nut
Local nut case
Do you race all four ?
Or stay at one track ? You race with a LED tree ?
Or should I say did race
Unless you got the gen 2 ready.
I assume grannys car is gone for good
Do you race all four ?
Or stay at one track ? You race with a LED tree ?
Or should I say did race
Unless you got the gen 2 ready.
I assume grannys car is gone for good
Grandmas car went to the big salvage yard in the sky.
After it was recovered, there wasn't much left...we saved the motor and trans..and the 373 rear and the SCT chip..other than that.. it was a total loss.
I did race at all 4 tracks, but I only competed for championship points at one of the tracks.
It was very tough running the old tree then the LED tree...from one week to the next.
I did make 1 race this season, and made it to the semi finals before I redlit.
Currently 4th in points, only 1 race win out of first..but I doubt I'm gonna "chase points this year".
I almost got the second gen ready for it's maiden voyage down the track.
I've just been chillin' taking it easy... getting the tune all sorted out (SCT Proracer and Xcal)
ford nut
Local nut case
Sucks about the car I didnt know you found it.
Post times when you run the gen 2.
That LED switch gave everyone fits.
First year they switched I had a bud racing S/C at the Nats. at BIR.
On Sat they ran 2 rounds early during the day the last round to get in on sunday they ran at dusk I have never seen so many reds.
yea it turned up 30 days after it was stolen at a crack house about 27 miles from where it was stolen.
Cops completely dropped the ball, left all my tools and alot of other crap at the crime scene because the car was a "secondary find" for another drug related investigation.
They took the car for the front clip, the radiator, front core support, intake tube and intake manifold and the passenger door.
From what it looked like to me, they took it SOLEY to repair a "front ended mark 8, that probably went UNDER the back of a truck".
Based on the fact they took the core support, intake tube AND the intake.
(weird)
They didn't take...
the sct chip that was still in the PCM
the spider valve that was hanging out in free air once they took the bumper cover off {they HAD to see it}
none of the performance mods, except it was missing the water pump pulley for the underdrive set..
All in all it was a bummer, but I got some of the stuff back ( 373's chip ect)
Cops completely dropped the ball, left all my tools and alot of other crap at the crime scene because the car was a "secondary find" for another drug related investigation.
They took the car for the front clip, the radiator, front core support, intake tube and intake manifold and the passenger door.
From what it looked like to me, they took it SOLEY to repair a "front ended mark 8, that probably went UNDER the back of a truck".
Based on the fact they took the core support, intake tube AND the intake.
(weird)
They didn't take...
the sct chip that was still in the PCM
the spider valve that was hanging out in free air once they took the bumper cover off {they HAD to see it}
none of the performance mods, except it was missing the water pump pulley for the underdrive set..
All in all it was a bummer, but I got some of the stuff back ( 373's chip ect)