Traction Control Issues

A

amorgan2017

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Hey guys, pretty rough day for problems. My EGR valve came in and I'll be putting that on tomorrow. Driving today, the Advanced trac came on..nothing seems wrong. The light is blinking nonstop though even when i restart or clear the codes. I went home to grab the scanner because of the issues and found out I have another engine code, P0109 TMAP circuit intermittent fault. Cleared it and I'll see if it comes back tomorrow because nothing seems wrong. The codes for the traction was 1 sometimes 2 codes, but they're C1440 Pressure difference between brake circuits and C1998 Module calibration failure...which sounds bad. Has anyone had any of these codes? I was surprised how fast my car put the scanner to test. Good thing it reads abs/trac. I appreciate any input.
 
P0109 is another EGR assembly related code.

C1440 (If you take care of this one, the other one may be related and may go away.) Do note the warning that you must verify that you don't have any mechanical or hydraulic brake problems first.
ABS-P1.jpgABS-P3.jpgABS-P6.jpg

ABS-P6.jpg


ABS-P3.jpg


ABS-P1.jpg
 
Ok I saw online somewhere it said there was a part that goes bad that takes like 5 minutes to replace is that the transducer signal circuit 8-CF54? I have all these parts in stock already should I just go with the throw it on and see if it works method? What's wrong with most people's LS when these lights come on if you happen to know? Thanks joe
 
Most the the time if only the AdvanceTrac light comes on and the ABS light stays off, it is the steering wheel angle sensor. Apparently not so for you. Why throw parts at it? Why not follow the quick and simple troubling shooting procedure above?

(It would take me well over five minutes to bleed the brakes after replacing the pressure sensor, probably at least an hour to get all four correctly.)
 
Idk I just don't know what happened exactly. My friend wanted to see if I could spin the tire holding the brake. And I could kinda..but right while I was doin it the advanced trac came on then started blinking a little later. Stupid to do I know I don't plan on trying it again.
 
amorgan2017 said:
Ok I saw online somewhere it said there was a part that goes bad that takes like 5 minutes to replace is that the transducer signal circuit 8-CF54?
Click to expand...

joegr said:
(It would take me well over five minutes to bleed the brakes after replacing the pressure sensor, probably at least an hour to get all four correctly.)
Click to expand...

I think there was a slight misunderstanding. I think OP meant:

amorgan2017 said:
Ok I saw online somewhere it said there was a part that goes bad that takes like 5 minutes to replace. Is that the transducer signal circuit 8-CF54?
Click to expand...

IIRC the wheel angle sensor is easy to replace, but I haven't done it. Still, the transducer would take longer.

Have you had any work done recently in the area? My AT light came on after replacing my upper control arms. I had disconnected the two sensors on the bottom of the reservoir(?). I didn't properly reconnect one of them (those waterproof gaskets take a lot of force) and it threw a C1288. Brake pressure transducer failure I think. I went back in there with two hands and got the plug all the way in. When my dealer quickly scanned it and gave me the rundown of what it could be (no actual diag was done), it went from bad to worse. All the parts were expensive and/or obsolete.


I recently realized the reason my Taurus ABS light came on after an e-brake 'drift' (high school...) was because the car knew it was moving, but assumed both the rear ABS sensors were dead. I guess if you keep trying to force a system to work a certain way, it will eventually assume something is broken.

Unfortunately, I don't think either of these help you
 
FDR said:
I think there was a slight misunderstanding. I think OP meant...
Click to expand...

Maybe, but he has a code for a hydraulic brake pressure sensor and not any other. To replace the sensor he has a code for, bleeding is involved. To replace any other sensor he doesn't have a code for would seem silly. Of course, it seemed strange for him to ask about the most common issues when he already knows what area his issue is in and what to do to narrow it down to the sensor, the wiring, the ABS electronics module, or a mechanical issue with the brakes. I guess diagnosis is not as well regarded as I would have hoped.
 
amorgan2017 said:
Idk I just don't know what happened exactly. My friend wanted to see if I could spin the tire holding the brake. And I could kinda..but right while I was doin it the advanced trac came on then started blinking a little later. Stupid to do I know I don't plan on trying it again.
Click to expand...

As more info becomes available...

I would start with "Excessive clearance between the brake pad and rotor, leaks, or air in the hydraulic brake system can also set DTC C1440" since you could have damaged something when you were doing that.
 
Alright I think air in the system is likley. When I had the car fixed the abs sensor had to be replaced and the brake line. When it was fixed only the front brakes were bleeded if I remember right. It doesn't seem to be affecting anything but I'll get it checked out soon and update ya guys. And if it had excessive clearance would that be a caliper issue?
 
also, please tell me you turned the AT off while trying to warm up the tires?
 
I'm not sure actually on the brake pedal. It feels ok most the time maybe a little light but barely if it is. Once the other Ls gets outta the paint room we'll check it out. And the car was warm yeah, and I'm not sure why I turn off the traction control every time I get in. Just a habit I guess just something I feel like I need to do.
 
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