Transmission help

[JERSEYJOE]

THIS F***ING TRANSMISSION IS DRIVING ME INSANE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

From the posts that I have read I think that my Neutral switch is bad. At lower speeds mostly when it's cold it does not know which gear it wants to be in. At highway speeds below 70 sometimes it will downshift itself and the tach goes from 2000 to 4000. It seems to shift fine when you pull out of a tool booth and hammer it, it's just when you are crusing about 55 all of a sudden without stabbing the throttle it's spinning 4000.

What exactly does the MLVP switch do? When I change it does it involve draining the trans fluid? I like the car but this is driving me crazy. The previous owner had the trans rebuilt about 6000 miles ago. Might this have been the problem all along?

 

[PioneerCrazed]

Don't let this thing kill ya for only 20 somthing bucks. Go out and buy a new switch and take the 15 mins. to swap it out. Done Deal... The symptons are dead on!!! Don't wait any longer, go out right now to autozone or NAPA and buy the MLPS AKA Neutral Safety Switch... Believe me you'll be thankful!!!

 

[94m5]

:yesnod:

 

[materialboi]

Help Help Please

Don't let this thing kill ya for only 20 somthing bucks. Go out and buy a new switch and take the 15 mins. to swap it out. Done Deal... The symptons are dead on!!! Don't wait any longer, go out right now to autozone or NAPA and buy the MLPS AKA Neutral Safety Switch... Believe me you'll be thankful!!!

I'm having this problem too. How do i replace this switch and how hard is it to do and where is it? I just bought the car and it's been driving me nuts. Thanks alot for your help. Ritchie@materialboi.com

Thanks Alot
Ritchie

 

[PioneerCrazed]

I got my MLPS, also known as a neutral saftey switch from NAPA. For the price of 20 bucks. It's really easy to change if you can get under your car, on the drivers side of the transmission held on with I believe (2) 8mm bolts. The shifter linkage connects to it, then it translates the movement of that to an electrical current letting the trans computer what gear to be in.

If I remember correctly you may have to put the shifter into neutral while you do it, then line up the line on the new sensor... Just make sure you have the ebrake on and chock up the wheels good!

What "usually" happens when it goes out is when you're cruising down the highway at 60, it will pop out of gear into neutral usually for a few seconds; but it can do other weird stuff to the trans. in the way it acts. If I remember correctly you may have to put the shifter into neutral while you do it, then line up the line on the new sensor... Just make sure you have the ebrake on and chock up the wheels good!

 

[1wykdmk8]

The MLPS is also called the Transmission Range Sensor (TR Sensor). According to the manual you will need a special tool......the MLPS Alignment Tool, but I have heard that ppl have installed the Sensor without the alignment tool. It is on the drivers side of the car on the outside of the tranny........it is has a wiring harness plugged into it. Here is what the manual says on removal and installation:

Removal

1) Disconnect battery ground cable.

2) Lift car place on jack stands or ramps on the front.

3)Disconnect electrical connection for the TR Sensor.

4) Remove the 2 retaining bolts.

5) Remove sensor.

Installation

1) Ensure that the gear selector is in the NEUTRAL position.

2) Install the TR Sensor loosely with the 2 retaining bolts.

3) Align the TR Sensor slots using the MLPS Alignment tool.

4) Tighten retaining bolts to 62-89 in-lb.

5) Connect electrical harness to the TR Sensor.

6) Lower the car.

7) Reconnect the battery ground terminal.

8) Apply the parking brake and verify that the car will ONLY start in the PARK and NEUTRAL positions.


Hope that helps. :Beer

 

[JERSEYJOE]

Problem Solved!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

My hat is off to the guys on the forum!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!1

I changed my MLVP sensor and it's like a new car again. I was really beginning to think that the trans was slipping. After reading the replies to my post on Friday morning, I went out and bought the part. Luckily I have a lift but even though it's not something you want to do when the car it HOT. Not much room between the floor, pipe and trans. Any how I replaced the sensor then drove the car 700 miles this weekend and it's like new again.

I do have a couple of other issues:

1. Even though I replaced the front and rear brake rotors, I still get moderate brake pulsation when I touch the brake at 70 MPH. I was thinkin about removing the front hubs and bolting the rotors to the hubs and having them machined. ANY THUGHTS?

2. Car seems to run hotter the faster you go. At 80 MPH with the air on it's on the N in NORMAL. This is close to the RED H. If I slow down to 60 and turn the air off it drops quite a bit. I'm thinkinc either clogger radiator, or theradiator and A/C condersor fins are clogged. Anything else wierd about this car here?

By the way with the cruise locked on 75 I clocked 27 MPG. Is this possible?

 

[JMiles_T]

I do have a couple of other issues:

1. Even though I replaced the front and rear brake rotors, I still get moderate brake pulsation when I touch the brake at 70 MPH. I was thinkin about removing the front hubs and bolting the rotors to the hubs and having them machined. ANY THUGHTS?

2. Car seems to run hotter the faster you go. At 80 MPH with the air on it's on the N in NORMAL. This is close to the RED H. If I slow down to 60 and turn the air off it drops quite a bit. I'm thinkinc either clogger radiator, or theradiator and A/C condersor fins are clogged. Anything else wierd about this car here?

By the way with the cruise locked on 75 I clocked 27 MPG. Is this possible?

1. Are you sure you tightened you lug nuts evenly when you put your wheels back on? That can make a big difference.

Use a torque wrench, with a 19mm socket. 92-105 foot pounds for all of them. The order you tighten them should be in a star pattern.

2. Responded to this here.

3. Yes, these car are that efficient at higher cruising speeds.