Transmission Issue...

Chris03

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Ok, only my second post, so, don’t slam me too bad….
I have searched dozens of transmission threads and can’t seem to find any answers for my problem.
I have a 03 LS v8, 60k miles. Yes, brand new ford coils.
Here’s my problem. Anywhere between 35-40 to 50 mph the transmission may randomly shift from 5th lock up to 5th to 4th. Does not happen above 50 at highway speed, 50+woohoo. On a 15 mile trip (back and forth to work, all back roads) this may happen 2 or 3 times. RPM goes from 1300 to 1700 to 2000 (approximate visual tach observation). When this happens, I usually let off the gas and then get back in it and its fine. Then a couple times I just left my foot on the gas, let it do its thing, and did not move the pedal position. As the RPM’s went up, no change in speed, but, when the RPM’s dropped back down again, car was going slower, with no change is pedal position.
I’m not sure what this could be, but, I have my suspicions (will not elaborate because it would make this thread extremely long) because this is a drive by wire car, but, any thoughts would be helpful.
 
I have the exact same problem on my rebuilt tranny (1 year 3 months old) with 13,000 miles on it. Not to sure how it feels on your car, but it feels like its slipping on my car. I'm having it taken in for other tranny related issues too on Wednesday. Sometimes coming down hill, I feel it downshift hard and hear gears grinding (sorta like if you were to put the car in reverse while going forward 20+ mph.)
 
it is likely 1 of two things. my money is on #2:
1)something factoring into a shift (lots of stuff) is slightly out of spec and its only apparent under high load (namely 4-5-4 shifts)

or

2) you never set the 4-5-4 shift sensor correctly. search for the drive cycle procedure and only do the step related to the 4-5-4 shift sensor in the conditions stipulated at the beginning of the document. if that doesnt fix it, you may need to disconnect a battery and redo the entire drive cycle and battery reconnect procedure bc it has too many miles on it without being calibrated correctly.
 
jrand, thanks. I did a search here for drive cycle procedures and only came up with a jpg file that looks like its aimed at the OBD II drive cycle for the sensors. Can you point me in the right direction for the procedure you mention? Unless it's step 11 of that document....
 
jrand, thanks. I did a search here for drive cycle procedures and only came up with a jpg file that looks like its aimed at the OBD II drive cycle for the sensors. Can you point me in the right direction for the procedure you mention? Unless it's step 11 of that document....

His answer to everything is follow the drive cycle; whatever that is.......
 
that sounds right.. if it says somethin about starting in d4 the throwing it to d5 a bunch of times under specific conditions then that is the correct step
 
His answer to everything is follow the drive cycle; whatever that is.......

pt less post from a guy who says its normal for this car to fall in and out of overdrive. arent you about due for your 20k mile shift solenoid replacement?? <eye roll>
 
jrand, here is the document I spoke of. it states that it relates to the transmission portion of the comprehensive computer monitor (ccm). would this be the correct procedure? I have probably inadvertently done this with my driving habits... but will try again to the exact procedure if correct.
Drive%20Cycle%20LLS.jpg

Drive%20Cycle%20LLS.jpg
 
Ok, so, I did not do this procedure yet, but, noticed something new today. When it did the episode as described above, I floored the peddle and held it there. No change in anything, RPM, or speed. After episode ended the car was going slower as described above even with peddle to the floor. Had to let off the peddle to get it to respond again. Also, it does it in SST mode 5 gear. How is that possible? I've read from many posts here that these cars have a very good and quick adaptive strategy. So, I'm not sure this is the problem. Could this be something else as I thought earlier? Maybe a TPS? Throttle body cleaning? Other thoughts?
 
Ok, so, I did not do this procedure yet, but, noticed something new today. When it did the episode as described above, I floored the peddle and held it there. No change in anything, RPM, or speed. After episode ended the car was going slower as described above even with peddle to the floor. Had to let off the peddle to get it to respond again. Also, it does it in SST mode 5 gear. How is that possible? I've read from many posts here that these cars have a very good and quick adaptive strategy. So, I'm not sure this is the problem. Could this be something else as I thought earlier? Maybe a TPS? Throttle body cleaning? Other thoughts?

Sounds like an issue with the ETC. When were the coils/plugs last replaced (remember a marginal/failing coil will mess with the PCM)? Any ETC Failsafe message? Maybe the pedal itself? I believe I've read about the pedal assembly failing somewhere.....
 
jrand, here is the document I spoke of. it states that it relates to the transmission portion of the comprehensive computer monitor (ccm). would this be the correct procedure? I have probably inadvertently done this with my driving habits... but will try again to the exact procedure if correct.
View attachment 828466179

yeah thats it, step 10 was the one i was referring to... thats pretty fckin weird if you have actually done that exactly, and the number of times it requires, without turning the car off and resetting the cycle...
 
youre both tracking... anything that factors into a shift can cause this issue. its next to impossible to identify the actual culprit bc the system adapts itself to out of spec/dirty parts without any indication of which part is out of spec/dirty. your best bet is to just keep up on all of the easy maintenance, even before it exhibits a problemn. in my experiences, marginal or failing coils/plugs will give a much more severe symptom and even throw it into limp mode with a variety of throttle-related codes, even though it was just a coil issue... dirty maf and throttle body have caused the symptom for me, as well as fuel issues. i am shocked how a monthly shot of lucas seems to keep mine issue free in that department.

but anytime i fix anything, or go awhile without lucas i have to do step 10 of that drive cycle, if not the entire drive cycle, bc the system logs all of the miles with out of spec/dirty parts and uses those specs to determine how it will shift. the symptoms you are describing, though completely unacceptable to you and almost anyone with half a brain, they are still 'within spec' to the car and will continue to be used until cleared or replaced with better data.
 
and for what its worth, 60k miles is the recommended battery change interval... changing the battery clears the keep alive memory (kam) which contains idle, emission, trans shift schedule (among other things)... so if someone replaced your battery and did not follow the battery replacement procedure, then reset the rest of the kam properly (quite easily ~99% accomplished by following the drive cycle doc you posted to a 'T') then you will have similar issues to the symptoms you describe as well.

-coming from someone who has cleared the kam many times and is truly shocked at how different the exact same car will shift/behave depending on how it is driven from the first time the key is turned 'on' until the first time the key is turned 'off'
 
LS4me, coils and plugs replaced last month. No ETC codes on the screen. I'll do a search, but, how would you check the pedal assembly? What about the motor that controls the throttle body plate? And no check engine light.... WoW, confusing.
 
LS4me, coils and plugs replaced last month. No ETC codes on the screen. I'll do a search, but, how would you check the pedal assembly? What about the motor that controls the throttle body plate? And no check engine light.... WoW, confusing.

I would think a failed/ing throttle body would throw a code. Looks like you can rule out interference from a failing coil. This should help. I just wish I could remember where I read about the pedal assembly.....
 
LS4me, thank you for that link! I will definitely scour though that.
jrand, battery is new. How long do you leave the battery disconnected to clear the KAM.
And what is the "proper battery replacement procedure"?
 
LS4me, thank you for that link! I will definitely scour though that.
jrand, battery is new. How long do you leave the battery disconnected to clear the KAM.
And what is the "proper battery replacement procedure"?

disconnect the + and - cables from the battery, hold them together for about 3-5 mins to completely clear the kam. then check the owners manual (the one that is in the glovebox)... it has the battery reconnect procedure. follow that to a T and dont turn the car off when youre done.. just go and do the drive cycle which you linked above. note the stipulations at the top of that document.. ambient temp must be above a certain level (40F i believe) and under a certain altitude, and with certain amt of fuel in the tank, etc. etc. follow it to a T if you clear the kam/disconnect battery.

but if your only issue was the one you described i would honestly just do step 10... although it is easily the most difficult step to complete, if your trans otherwise shifts good and you are not having any other issues, step 10 is going to set the tranny sensors correctly, and clean up your 4-5-4 shifts and TCC (torque converter clutch) operation
 
Thank you all for your replies thus far! Especially to jrand. I have the complete procedure printed out for the clearing of the KAM. I will complete step 10 to a "T" first (because the trans does shift good), then do the complete KAM clearing and relearning procedure if necessary. BTW there was a procedure I found from a 2010 post to turn the key to on, push gas pedal to floor, wait 3 sec, turn key off and release pedal and leave key in ignition for at least 5 sec without touching anything. It was a generic procedure post to reset the TCM. Did not work for me.
I'll keep everyone posted. Stay tuned.
 
Well, did the CCM procedure yesterday. No help. Looks like I'm going to have to do the whole procedure from KAM reset. However, I am still at a loss to explain the "no gas pedal response" during the episode. Still looking for a procedure to check the pedal assembly. However, it presents no problem at any other time, so I don't think that's the problem. Stay tuned again.
 
... However, I am still at a loss to explain the "no gas pedal response" during the episode. ...

My 04 did this once, when my wife was driving. It didn't trigger the ETC message, and there were no codes stored about it (checked with a scanner that would have picked them up). This was a couple of years ago, and it has never done it again.
 
This doesn't really help here, but I thought that some of you may be interested in this...

Electronic Throttle Control
The Gen 2 Electronic Throttle Control system uses a strategy that delivers output shaft torque, based on driver
demand, utilizing an electronically controlled throttle body. Gen 2 ETC strategy was developed mainly to improve
fuel economy. This is possible by decoupling throttle angle (produces engine torque) from pedal position (driver
demand). This allows the powertrain control strategy to optimize fuel control and transmission shift schedules
while delivering the requested wheel torque. Gen 2 ETC is being introduced on the 2003 MY Lincoln LS and Ford
Thunderbird.
Because safety is a major concern with ETC systems, a complex safety monitor strategy (hardware and
software) was developed. The monitor system is distributed across two processors: the main powertrain control
processor and a monitoring processor called an Enhanced-Quizzer (E-Quizzer) processor.
The primary monitoring function is performed by the Independent Plausibility Check (IPC) software, which resides
on the main processor. It is responsible for determining the driver-demanded torque and comparing it to an
estimate of the actual torque delivered. If the generated torque exceeds driver demand by specified amount, the
IPC takes appropriate mitigating action.
Since the IPC and main controls share the same processor, they are subject to a number of potential, commonfailure
modes. Therefore, the E-Quizzer processor was added to redundantly monitor selected PCM inputs and to
act as an intelligent watchdog and monitor the performance of the IPC and the main processor. If it determines
that the IPC function is impaired in any way, it takes appropriate Failure Mode and Effects Management (FMEM)
actions.
FORD MOTOR COMPANY REVISION DATE: NOVEMBER 12, 2007 PAGE 56 OF 95
ETC System Failure Mode and Effects Management:
Effect Failure Mode
No Effect on Driveability A loss of redundancy or loss of a non-critical input could result in a fault that does not affect
driveability. The ETC light will turn on, but the throttle control and torque control systems will
function normally.
Disable Speed Control If certain failures are detected, speed control will be disabled. Throttle control and torque
control will continue to function normally.
RPM Guard w/ Pedal
Follower
In this mode, torque control is disabled due to the loss of a critical sensor or PCM fault. The
throttle is controlled in pedal-follower mode as a function of the pedal position sensor input
only. A maximum allowed RPM is determined based on pedal position (RPM Guard.) If the
actual RPM exceeds this limit, spark and fuel are used to bring the RPM below the limit. The
ETC light and the MIL are turned on in this mode and a P2106 is set. EGR, VCT, and IMRC
outputs are set to default values.
RPM Guard w/ Default
Throttle
In this mode, the throttle plate control is disabled due to the loss of Throttle Position, the
Throttle Plate Position Controller, or other major Electronic Throttle Body fault. A default
command is sent to the TPPC, or the H-bridge is disabled. Depending on the fault detected,
the throttle plate is controlled or springs to the default (limp home) position. A maximum
allowed RPM is determined based on pedal position (RPM Guard.) If the actual RPM
exceeds this limit, spark and fuel are used to bring the RPM below the limit. The ETC light
and the MIL are turned on in this mode and a P2110 is set. EGR, VCT, and IMRC outputs
are set to default values.
RPM Guard w/ Forced
High Idle
This mode is caused by the loss of 2 or 3 pedal position sensor inputs due to sensor, wiring,
or PCM faults. The system is unable to determine driver demand, and the throttle is controlled
to a fixed high idle airflow. There is no response to the driver input. The maximum allowed
RPM is a fixed value (RPM Guard.) If the actual RPM exceeds this limit, spark and fuel are
used to bring the RPM below the limit. The ETC light and the MIL are turned on in this mode
and a P2104 is set. EGR, VCT, and IMRC outputs are set to default values.
Shutdown If a significant processor fault is detected, the monitor will force vehicle shutdown by disabling
all fuel injectors. The ETC light and the MIL are turned on in this mode and a P2105 is set.
Note: ETC illuminates or displays a message on the message center immediately, MIL
illuminates after 2 driving cycles
Electronic Throttle Monitor
Electronic Throttle Monitor Operation:
DTCs P0606 - PCM processor failure (MIL, ETC light)
P2106 – ETC FMEM – forced limited power; sensor fault: MAF, one TP, CKP, TSS,
OSS, stuck throttle, throttle actuator circuit fault (MIL, ETC light)
P2110 – ETC FMEM – forced limited rpm; two TPs failed; TPPC detected fault (MIL,
ETC light)
P2104 – ETC FMEM – forced idle, two or three pedal sensors failed (MIL, ETC light)
P2105 – ETC FMEM – forced engine shutdown; EQuizzer detected fault (MIL, ETC
light)
U0300 – ETC software version mismatch, IPC, EQuizzer or TPPC (MIL, ETC light)
Monitor execution Continuous
Monitor Sequence None
Sensors OK not applicable
Monitoring Duration < 1 seconds to register a malfunction
FORD MOTOR COMPANY REVISION DATE: NOVEMBER 12, 2007 PAGE 57 OF 95
Accelerator and Throttle Position Sensor Inputs
Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor Check Operation:
DTCs P2122, P2123 – APP D circuit continuity (ETC light, non-MIL)
P2121 – APP D range/performance (ETC light, non-MIL)
P2138 – APP D / APP E correlation (ETC light, non-MIL)
P2127, P2128 – APP E circuit continuity (ETC light, non-MIL)
P2126 – APP E range/performance (ETC light, non-MIL)
P2140 – APP E / APP F correlation (ETC light, non-MIL)
P2132, P2133 – APP F circuit continuity (ETC light, non-MIL)
P2131 – APP F range/performance (ETC light, non-MIL)
P2139 – APP D / APP F correlation (ETC light, non-MIL)
Monitor execution continuous
Monitor Sequence none
Sensors OK not applicable
Monitoring Duration < 1 seconds to register a malfunction
APP sensor check malfunction thresholds:
Circuit continuity - Voltage < 0.25 volts or voltage > 4.75 volts
Correlation and range/performance – sensor disagreement between processors (PCM and EQuizzer)
Throttle Position Sensor Check Operation:
DTCs P0122, P0123 – TP A circuit continuity (MIL, ETC light)
P0121 – TP A range/performance (non-MIL)
P2135 – TP A / TP B correlation (ETC light, non-MIL)
P0222, P0223 – TP B circuit continuity (MIL, ETC light)
P0221 – TP B range/performance (non-MIL)
Monitor execution Continuous
Monitor Sequence None
Sensors OK not applicable
Monitoring Duration < 1 seconds to register a malfunction
TP sensor check malfunction thresholds:
Circuit continuity - Voltage < 0.25 volts or voltage > 4.75 volts
Correlation and range/performance – sensor disagreement between processors (PCM and EQuizzer), TP
inconsistent with TPPC throttle plate position
FORD MOTOR COMPANY REVISION DATE: NOVEMBER 12, 2007 PAGE 58 OF 95
Throttle Plate Position Controller (TPPC) Outputs
The purpose of the TPPC is to control the throttle position to the desired throttle angle. It is a separate chip
embedded in the PCM. The desired angle is communicated from the main CPU via a 312.5 Hz duty cycle signal.
The TPPC interprets the duty cycle signal as follows:
0% <= DC < 5% - Out of range, limp home default position.
5% <= DC < 6% - Commanded default position, closed.
6% <= DC < 7% - Commanded default position. Used for key-on, engine off.
7% <= DC < 10% - Closed against hard-stop. Used to learn zero throttle angle position (hard-stop) after
key-up
10% <= DC <=92% - Normal operation, between 0 degrees (hard-stop) and 82%, 10% duty cycle = 0
degrees throttle angle, 92% duty cycle = 82 degrees throttle angle.
92% < DC <= 96% - Wide Open Throttle, 82 to 86 degrees throttle angle.
96% < DC <= 100% - Out of Range, limp home default position
The desired angle is relative to the hard-stop angle. The hard-stop angle is learned during each key-up process
before the main CPU requests the throttle plate to be closed against the hard-stop. The output of the TPPC is a
voltage request to the H-driver (also in PCM). The H driver is capable of positive or negative voltage to the
Electronic Throttle Body Motor.
Throttle Plate Controller Check Operation:
DTCs P2107 – processor test (MIL)
P2111 – throttle actuator system stuck open (MIL,)
P2112 – throttle actuator system stuck closed (MIL)
P2100 – throttle actuator circuit open, short to power, short to ground (MIL,)
P2101 – throttle actuator range/performance test (MIL)
Note: For all the above DTCs, in addition to the MIL, the ETC light will be on for
the fault that caused the FMEM action.
Monitor execution Continuous
Monitor Sequence None
Monitoring Duration < 5 seconds to register a malfunction
FORD MOTOR COMPANY REVISION DATE: NOVEMBER 12, 2007 PAGE 59 OF 95
Comprehensive Component Monitor - Engine
Engine Inputs
Analog inputs such as Intake Air Temperature (P0112, P0113), Engine Coolant Temperature (P0117, P0118),
Cylinder Head Temperature (P1289. P1290), Mass Air Flow (P0102, P0103) and Throttle Position (P0122, P0123,
P1120), Fuel Temperature (P0182, P0183), Engine Oil Temperature (P0197, P0198), Fuel Rail Pressure (p0192,
P0193) are checked for opens, shorts, or rationality by monitoring the analog -to-digital (A/D) input voltage.
Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor Check Operation:
DTCs P0117 (low input), P0118 (high input)
Monitor execution continuous
Monitor Sequence None
Sensors OK not applicable
Monitoring Duration 5 seconds to register a malfunction
Typical ECT sensor check malfunction thresholds:
Voltage < 0.244 volts or voltage > 4.96 volts
The ECT rationality test checks to make sure that ECT is not stuck high in a range that causes other OBD to be
disabled. If after a long soak, ECT is very high (> 230 oF) and is also much higher than IAT at start, it is assumed
that ECT is stuck high.
ECT Sensor Rationality Check Operation:
DTCs P0116 (ECT stuck high)
Monitor execution Once per driving cycle
Monitor Sequence None
Sensors OK ECT, CHT, IAT
Monitoring Duration 100 seconds to register a malfunction
Typical ECT Sensor Rationality check entry conditions:
Entry Condition Minimum Maximum
Engine-off time (soak time) 360 min
Difference between ECT and IAT 50 deg
Engine Coolant Temperature 230 oF
Typical ECT Sensor Rationality check malfunction thresholds:
Catalyst, Misfire, Fuel System or HO2S Monitors have not run this drive cycle
F
 
Well, did the CCM procedure yesterday. No help. Looks like I'm going to have to do the whole procedure from KAM reset. However, I am still at a loss to explain the "no gas pedal response" during the episode. Still looking for a procedure to check the pedal assembly. However, it presents no problem at any other time, so I don't think that's the problem. Stay tuned again.

shoot. these cars take a lot of patience to refine performance, but it is possible. it may be that there are too many miles of bad data in the KAM to offset the miles you have put on it with good coils, but like you said, you may have another causative issue..

in terms of the gas pedal issue, i am shocked that you did not get a throttle stuck code (open or closed). everytime i had a similar issue it would go into limp mode and throw a throttle related code, but my issue was coil related. it may be possible that your kam picked up some habits from when it had bad coils and needs to have them cleared and be 'relearned' with new kam data only...

personally, before i did that, i would clean the throttle body with teflon safe cleaner (crc brand is the one i use). i would also clean the maf, and make sure i had properly gapped spark plugs, and a clean air filter, and a newish fuel filter. i would dump a bottle of lucas (or equivalent) in the gas just to rule it out. make sure octane of gas is correct too.

last thign i would do is check the pedal sensors. im not sure of the ford procedures to check them, but i believe theyre in either the shop manual or the extra book that goes with it..(acronym for that book is slipping my mind). if im recalling correctly, you need ford equipment to follow the ford procedures, but you can kinda get around that in the sense that an 'elm-327' (cheap on ebay and amazon) can read the pedal sensors and relay them to your android smartphone via the paid 'torque' app ($5)... i dont know how much this will help tho. i can see that all 3 of my pedal sensors are working, but i cannot tell if they are calibrated correctly. if i remember right, on my car 2 sensors read the same, and the other is different. i dont know if that is right or wrong. if i remember right, there was a thread where a few of us threw out some pedal measurement readings and i concluded that mine were either fine or everyone who threw out measurements were screwed up in a very similar way. also, i believe that the measurements were correct bc the shop manual said that one pedal sensor can completely fail and the pcm will be able to triangulate the other sensor and continue to operate... if you look at the pedal its almost a right triangle so two sensors being the same (triangle legs), and the other being a bit higher (triangle hypotenuse) would make some sense... about the only thing an elm, an android, and torque would help you ID is if your PCM is still reading all 3 pedal sensors.. but even then you have to wonder if one of the 3 readings is an actual reading or just a calculated number substituted for an actual number... i dont think anyone knows the answer to that.

after all that, all i think you can do for this issue is to clear the kam and follow the procedures to reset/relearn. you might want to really mess with it a few times to see how much differently you can make the car drive/shift after clearing the kam and makign it relearn based on the way you drive it the first time after clearing the KAM. if after all that, you still cant stand it i would say you need to take it to lincoln/ford dealer and pray they can pinpoint something with their equipment in a simple diagnosis
 
joegr, that info sheds light on how thing are inter-related. Thank you, and to jrand as well.

So, this weekend I reset the KAM, followed the battery install procedure, and followed the drive cycle to a "T", and put a shot of lucas in. Drove for a couple days before I'm responding to make sure I'm not going crazy. Same issue as described in the initial post. I have a ScanGauge II that I hooked up [no jokes please :)] with the monitors set for voltage, rpm, TPS, and LOAD. During the episode: there's a change in rpm (as to be expected), no change in voltage, TPS showed minimal response when moving the pedal, and it does not matter what load it's at when it happens. Other than during the episode, trans shifts good, not harsh, no delayed shifts, etc. I get no codes and no ETC message.

So, I have to assume that it's not the pedal position sensor, or TPS. They should throw codes, no?

I picked up some throttle body cleaner tonight, and when I disassembled to clean, it was clean as a whistle, so, I did not bother. This was a long shot being that the car only has 60k on it. However, while in there, I turned the key to the on position, and had a helper cycle the gas pedal. Throttle body motor made some noise, but it was not a smooth noise, yet the position didn't fluctuate, it was a very smooth transition. Could the noise from it be a problem?? Start of a failure?? Throw a code?? Mess with the PCM??

joegr's post got me thinking that maybe this might also be related to the sensors on the brake pedal. After all, they dis-engage the cruise control and also signal an upshift when slowing down. Can the sensitivity of these sensors be causing this? and still no codes? (I will try hitting the brake during the next episode).

Could this be EGR related? I am not versed in EGR related problems, but, would this not throw a code also?

Is there a sensor in/on the trans that could be causing this? Or is it fluid related? Didn't they specify mercon V in mid 2003?

I am beginning to think that maybe I need to take it back to the stealer-ship to have the PCM re-flashed / re-programed as there may be a program "fix" to this problem? The thread I read from joegr on TSB's back in 2011 make no mention of this, but, it may still be a possibility...

Thoughts?
 
joegr, that info sheds light on how thing are inter-related. Thank you, and to jrand as well.

So, this weekend I reset the KAM, followed the battery install procedure, and followed the drive cycle to a "T", and put a shot of lucas in. Drove for a couple days before I'm responding to make sure I'm not going crazy. Same issue as described in the initial post. I have a ScanGauge II that I hooked up [no jokes please :)] with the monitors set for voltage, rpm, TPS, and LOAD. During the episode: there's a change in rpm (as to be expected), no change in voltage, TPS showed minimal response when moving the pedal, and it does not matter what load it's at when it happens. Other than during the episode, trans shifts good, not harsh, no delayed shifts, etc. I get no codes and no ETC message.

So, I have to assume that it's not the pedal position sensor, or TPS. They should throw codes, no?

I picked up some throttle body cleaner tonight, and when I disassembled to clean, it was clean as a whistle, so, I did not bother. This was a long shot being that the car only has 60k on it. However, while in there, I turned the key to the on position, and had a helper cycle the gas pedal. Throttle body motor made some noise, but it was not a smooth noise, yet the position didn't fluctuate, it was a very smooth transition. Could the noise from it be a problem?? Start of a failure?? Throw a code?? Mess with the PCM??

joegr's post got me thinking that maybe this might also be related to the sensors on the brake pedal. After all, they dis-engage the cruise control and also signal an upshift when slowing down. Can the sensitivity of these sensors be causing this? and still no codes? (I will try hitting the brake during the next episode).

Could this be EGR related? I am not versed in EGR related problems, but, would this not throw a code also?

Is there a sensor in/on the trans that could be causing this? Or is it fluid related? Didn't they specify mercon V in mid 2003?

I am beginning to think that maybe I need to take it back to the stealer-ship to have the PCM re-flashed / re-programed as there may be a program "fix" to this problem? The thread I read from joegr on TSB's back in 2011 make no mention of this, but, it may still be a possibility...

Thoughts?

everyone's car value, budget, and tolerance for symptoms is different, so its up to you what to do with it now. but it sounds to me like you have knocked out all the easy stuff and need to take it to the dealer if you want toa ctually get to the bottom of it.

i would not give them any suggestions or tell them you ruled anything out or think it might be pcm, or this, or that or whatever... i would just describe the symptom and let them figure it out. i always wait a day or two before i take somethin in for diagnosis and think long and hard about all of the other weird sounds and questionable crap the car has done so that i can get everything properly diagnosed on one diagnostic fee...

goodluck and report back what they find if you go that route.
 
Thanks for the recommendations. I spoke with 3 local dealers today (sat.), only one was helpful over the phone. Apparently there are some TSB's for the trans and the PCM. The TSB's for the trans do not describe my problem. They were for hard shift and loss of 2, 3, and 5 gear. However, there is a PCM firmware flash. I'm not sure this was done as I bought my car used. I do remember reading some threads here that said that a PCM reprograming did nothing to help the shift parameters (or anything else for that matter). Not to step on the (I did search) thread here, but it seems like I have his symptom #2, jut not at that speed. The service rep. I spoke with is going to talk to the A-tech on Monday to see if he has any more insight on my problem, or has seen it before. I will call him back then.
It seems like I may go this route unless someone can talk me down.....
 

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