tremec swap? can it be done?or ne 5speed for that matter

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krose311

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Is there any 5 speed that will fit in my 97 mark? thats not going to put the shifter under the dash
 
thats mikes car, ive seen it :D it was in his 93 (maybe 94) markviii, as for the lengthening of the shifter, they added another "box" look at a t45 shifter where it goes into the trans now take that box and find another one, cut that part off and weld it to the rear of the existing bod then just extend the shift linkage (easy right?)
 
The shifter housing on a T56 sits about 2 and a half to three inches farther back than it does on a T45. I am pretty sure you can get away with not building one of those awful shifter boxes. Also, I talked to that kid a few times, hes really nice, but I found a way to do it so that you dont have to extend the wiring harness. There is a spot under the dash that if you pull the harness through the firewall a little farther (without ripping anything, that you can tuck the ECM into. I converted my crown vic to a stick like this. I got my hands on a mustang 5.0 clutch pedal assembly. I grinded down the factory spot welds on the tube that the clutch pedal slides through, and hammered the clutch pedal tube out of the brake pedal bracket. Then I welded the clutch to the front of the crown victoria factory pedal bracket, and slid the clutch pedal in with a billet quadrant. I cut a hole in the firewall, and ran a stock mustang clutch cable underneath to a mustang clutch fork, and voi la. I am in the proecess of doing the same thing to my 95 mark viii. The computer is out of the way now, and there is room for the clutch pedal. I wont have to clearance my shocktowers for the master cylinder either, since the hole is on the other side of the brake pedal for the clutch cable. There is plenty of room in that area with nothing vital in the way for the hole for the clutch cable.

P.S. Hey Edrea, I dont know if you remember me, but a couple of years back, I met you at Bithlo with my 02 crown victoria sport, around the time you were graduating from embry riddle. I remembere tearing you up pretty good. Haha, but now look, you actually inspired me to get a mark viii. I got a 95 pearlescent white LSC. I tried getting a hold of you a few times after that to see if you wanted to go out to the track, but I assume you must have moved back home
 
marauderprime said:
P.S. Hey Edrea, I dont know if you remember me, but a couple of years back, I met you at Bithlo with my 02 crown victoria sport, around the time you were graduating from embry riddle. I remembere tearing you up pretty good. Haha, but now look, you actually inspired me to get a mark viii. I got a 95 pearlescent white LSC. I tried getting a hold of you a few times after that to see if you wanted to go out to the track, but I assume you must have moved back home
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Yhea I remember you, I wish I was still near OSW. I moved back to minnesota in march of 05 after I graduated. You beat me a couple of time's but I moved and then built my mark up and then crashed it. So now I have a new project and I would love to take you on again if we where close.

Good to here you converted, I wanted one just like that but a 96 and a black interior. What did you do with the vic?
 
marauderprime said:
The shifter housing on a T56 sits about 2 and a half to three inches farther back than it does on a T45. I am pretty sure you can get away with not building one of those awful shifter boxes. Also, I talked to that kid a few times, hes really nice, but I found a way to do it so that you dont have to extend the wiring harness. There is a spot under the dash that if you pull the harness through the firewall a little farther (without ripping anything, that you can tuck the ECM into. I converted my crown vic to a stick like this. I got my hands on a mustang 5.0 clutch pedal assembly. I grinded down the factory spot welds on the tube that the clutch pedal slides through, and hammered the clutch pedal tube out of the brake pedal bracket. Then I welded the clutch to the front of the crown victoria factory pedal bracket, and slid the clutch pedal in with a billet quadrant. I cut a hole in the firewall, and ran a stock mustang clutch cable underneath to a mustang clutch fork, and voi la. I am in the proecess of doing the same thing to my 95 mark viii. The computer is out of the way now, and there is room for the clutch pedal. I wont have to clearance my shocktowers for the master cylinder either, since the hole is on the other side of the brake pedal for the clutch cable. There is plenty of room in that area with nothing vital in the way for the hole for the clutch cable.

P.S. Hey Edrea, I dont know if you remember me, but a couple of years back, I met you at Bithlo with my 02 crown victoria sport, around the time you were graduating from embry riddle. I remembere tearing you up pretty good. Haha, but now look, you actually inspired me to get a mark viii. I got a 95 pearlescent white LSC. I tried getting a hold of you a few times after that to see if you wanted to go out to the track, but I assume you must have moved back home
Click to expand...

I'm about to convert to the T56, thanks for the wiring tip.
 
youre welcome. the thought of lengthening 100 wires seemed a little ridiculous, so i looked around for another solution. In my opinion, you should stay away from the hydraulics. The only weakness the clutch cable has after you put the billet quadrant and firewall adjuster on is the cable itself stretching or snapping. Which is an extremely easy fix, compared with repairing hydraulics.

Hey eric, my dad drives it to and from work now, but it got a few more parts put on it now. In addition to the 4.10s and the detroit true trac, its got a tremec 3550 with a spec stage 3 clutch, metco control arms, 2 MSD boxes, and accel COPs. The last time I ran it it was running 14.40s on a completely stock longblock.

Do you know a good place to get a good deal on a PI converter for the mark? In december, the mark is going in for head studs, kooks long tubes, 4.10 gears with a detroit true trac, a 93 driveshaft, a Dennis chip, full exhaust with a magnaflow X-pipe, 2.5 inch pipes all the way back, to 2 resonator tips. I'd like to do a converter too. I figure that should put me solidly in the low 14s, high 13s, which is where I want to be, pre blower
 
if youre starting the swap, heres another tip. The MLPS MUST STAY ON THE CAR. leave it plugged in, and hang it up out of the way. if you dont, your car will not run when you are done, and youre going to swear at yourself for several hours untill you finally figure it out
 
another new tip

P.S. the goal in a manual swap in these cars is to get that shifter back as far as possible. The factory T56 cobra shifter location is placed in the exact same spot as a T45 or a tremec on an SN95 mustang, so that doesnt help much unless youre crazy enough to try to make a shifter box for a T56, or you just want to hack your car up and reach for the shifter like in a fox haha. hated the 4/5 shift in those.

I have not yet confirmed if its a direct swap, but assuming changing the tailshaft doesnt affect the output shaft of the tranny (i.e. different diameter exit hole for the output shaft) and I think that it doesnt, but swap out the cobra tailhousing for a GTO tailhousing. the F-body T56 shifter location is 2 inches farther back than the factory cobra location, and the GTO tailshaft housing puts the shifter location an additional 3 inches farther back than the F-body. the GTO shifter location is literally directly above the end of the output shaft, which is as far back as the shifter is going to get before youre extending past the end of the tranny. There is a very good possibility that you can have the shifter pop up right through the factory automatic hole in the center console which would be SWEET!!!!.

Also, took some measurements the other day. If you want to use my clutch cable method, you are going to have to cut the clutch tube and pedal shaft, remove about a full inch to an inch and a quarter of material, and then weld it back together. It would probably cost about 30 to 40 bucks at a welding shop to do this. This will position the clutch pedal closer to the brake pedal where it should be, freeing up additional room to mount the computer. So far I have been able to shift the stock computer mounting bracket over 2 inches. I am either going to build a custom one, or see if I can relocate it permanently somewhere else in the interior or onto the firewall. Also, you are going to have to grind down the top of the billet clutch quadrant, as it scrapes the top of the firewall on the inside. grind it down, just make sure to leave about an inch of the original channel before the cable hook on the quadrant. that will be more than enough to make sure it doesnt snake off of the top of the quadrant. When I get home in a week and a half, I am going to double measure everything, and take my 5.0 pedal assembly to a welder to have it modified. When all is said and done, if this goes smoothly, I am going to build a custom pedal, and offer it as part of a swap kit. I know this can be done without modifying the car majorly other than the cutting of the holes for the clutch cable, and the shifter, which has to be done no matter what. I cant even tell you how much of a difference I think a 6 speed with 4.10 gears and no other modifications will make on a mark viii. I hope this will be a viable swap option in the future.
 
marauderprime said:
I cant even tell you how much of a difference I think a 6 speed with 4.10 gears and no other modifications will make on a mark viii. I hope this will be a viable swap option in the future.
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I think it will make a huge difference not only in timeslips but in the fun factor of the car... I also hope you're taking pics as you're going along.
 
unfortunately i dont own a digital camera, but I will try to borrow one from my friend before final assembly.
 
marauderprime said:
if youre starting the swap, heres another tip. The MLPS MUST STAY ON THE CAR. leave it plugged in, and hang it up out of the way. if you dont, your car will not run when you are done, and youre going to swear at yourself for several hours untill you finally figure it out
Click to expand...


What is the MLPS? I am currently swaping to a t56 too. the engine should be out this weekend and I are going to go pick up the tranmission this weekend to

P.S thank for all of these great tips keep them come:)
 
manual lever position sensor. its the little plug for the ECM that tells the car what position the shifter is in. just leave it plugged in., remember what i said about the tailshafts too. Try an F-body one first, it might give you the clearance you need, if not theres always the GTO housing
 
another hint after converting 2 different cars that were never offered with sticks to sticks, dont be in a rush. i know thats cliche, but if you dont rush, itll go much faster. When you are taking your measurements to cut your shifter hole, dont have any of the clutch components installed. just bolt the bellhousing to the block, and use the two top tranny to bellhousing bolts to hold it on, that way you can measure, remove, measure, remove, cut a little, measure, remove, and finish cutting.itll go on and off in a few minutes each time. you should have seen the hole i ended up cutting in my 85 monte carlo. it was hideous
 
Camaro, trans am, firebird, fire hawk 1967-2002. All f-body's. I'm assuming 94 and newer is what he is referring to. I think. I don't know much about Manuel's I'm pro automatic.
 
pro slushbox. haha. i used to run built autos in everything. I had a built automatic with a 3k stall converter in both my crown vic, and my monte SS, and the stick swaps dropped both ETs by 4/10ths of a second in each case. The monte became an animal all around monster. I was so flabbergasted with the difference in performance that i was kicking myself for having never done it before. Any tailhousing from 1994 to 2002 would be good as a starting point. That puts the shifter much farther back than the stock T45 location. If thats not far enough, swap the tailhousing out for a GTO tailhousing.
 
the gto shifter sits taller though, and uses a remote setup, so you may end up ultimately cutting a larger hole in the floor pan for the shifter, but it sure would put the shifter in a nice place in that car
 
Yea i think it should make a good differnce for the mark. The only problem is the mark is heavy so it will spin like a bich in first gear. I will need to put some good tires on the back the stock :q:q:q:q will have to go
 
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