Troubleshooting rear window defogger/defroster

REDBED

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My rear window niether defrosts or defogs. I looked under rear seat and speaker deck for connectors but saw none. Where do I begin to check for power? I've had the interior apart and am wondering if I left a connector undone. Thank You for any advise
 
there shoud be a connector under the sail panels goingto hhe defrost plugs in the glass. unplug it and use a test light wiht the defrost on to check for power. hope this helps
 
there shoud be a connector under the sail panels goingto hhe defrost plugs in the glass. unplug it and use a test light wiht the defrost on to check for power. hope this helps

Yup. There is a blade-type connector about halfway on either side of the back glass, behind the "C" pillar trim.
 
Thank You both for your replies. Does the power originate from the REM and if so where is that located on a Gen 2 ? Also, shouldn't there be air blowing from the vents with the windshield defroster on? I think I caused this problem while soundproofing the interior with removing interior panels. One step foward two steps back.
 
Thank You both for your replies. Does the power originate from the REM and if so where is that located on a Gen 2 ? Also, shouldn't there be air blowing from the vents with the windshield defroster on? I think I caused this problem while soundproofing the interior with removing interior panels. One step foward two steps back.

Yes, it is controlled by the REM. The REM is on the trunk wall on the right side behind the carpet/trim. It is near the trunk light.

No air will blow from the rear vents. Those vents are to allow air from the cabin into the trunk and then out of the car through vents in the rear of the trunk. You don't want to block those vents as it will reduce AC airflow when set to fresh air, however they have nothing to do with rear defrost.
 
Thanks Joe. I did remove all the carpet in the trunk. First place to check
 
I checked and defroster relay pulls in when button is pressed. Wanted to check or swap fuse (F4-29) but was unable to remove. Whats the secret? Also can I swap the relay (C443) to check the contacts with any of the the other relays in the battery junction box? Im trying not to pull the C pillar apart till last. Do you know which pillar panel (driver=pass) to remove to get at the defroster grid connection? Thanks for any help
 
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I checked and defroster relay pulls in when button is pressed. Wanted to check or swap fuse (F4-29) but was unable to remove. Whats the secret? Also can I swap the relay (C443) to check the contacts with any of the the other relays in the battery junction box? Im trying not to pull the C pillar apart till last. Do you know which pillar panel (driver=pass) to remove to get at the defroster grid connection? Thanks for any help

The fuse just pulls out.
You can swap the relays.
There's a connection to the defroster grid on the glass behind both C pillars. Both connections have to be good for it to work. If you look on each side about half way up the glass, you can see the beginning of the connection point without even taking the pillars off. You are saving the most likely thing for it to be to check last. Probably, one of the two connection "buttons" has broke off.
 
joe is correct. most coomon problem is the tabs that connect to the rear glass are made of thin metal. the vibration over time will break them loose
 
joe is correct. most coomon problem is the tabs that connect to the rear glass are made of thin metal. the vibration over time will break them loose

Really? I have and have had many high mileage cars (over 150K miles) and never had that failure. The problem comes from disturbing the attachment points. They can be re-attached with conductive adhesive. I accidentally "removed" the antenna connection from the back glass and this worked well. Just remember to use heat to cure the adhesive.
 

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