Tune-Up Query

[ACDiecast]

Good afternoon everyone. I have a couple of questions about the tune-up I'm just wrapping up. I have a 2003 LS Sport 3.9L, which I purchased a couple months ago with 61K miles. She is in beautiful, garage-kept shape! I had only driven about 100 miles when I started to feel a slight misfire upon acceleration. Knowing the dubious nature of the coils, I did the research and replaced all 8 coils and plugs with genuine Motorcraft plugs and coils, what I have found to be the most recent revision of the coils.

Now that I have time to do a thorough check of everything, I want to make sure I get all the maintenance items done. I've got the cabin air filter, the HVAC seats filters, and engine air filter. I'm wondering, do you guys recommend replacing the PCV Valve and Hose? I believe it's pretty reasonably priced. I've heard something about a recall for the PCV Valve, and haven't been able to find anything. What's that about?

One more thing, I'm going to disconnect my battery to reset the fuel trims and shift logics to start with a "clean slate" with the new ignition set. How long do you guys recommend unhooking it for? Also, is the procedure for learning the correct fuel trims in my owners manual somewhere?

Thanks in advance folks, any feedback is greatly appreciated.

-Dan

 

[joegr]

The 3.9 has no PCV valve, so I don't see how you could replace something that isn't there. It does, of course, have PCV tubes and hoses. I wouldn't bother replacing any unless they are already cracked or otherwise broken.
You did verify/set the plug gaps to 1.0mm? (Pre-gapped plugs are often wrong.)
The fuel filter would be a good thing to change. Also, have a look at your rear toe links.

Despite what at least one member says, the PCM will adapt to any changes (such as bad coils replaced with good one) fairly quickly on its own, and it won't have to relearn all the stuff that didn't change.
You can pull and restore power if you really want to (or you can use a scan tool to clear the memory). If you must do this, disconnecting for five minutes is way more than enough to do it. Just let it idle a little while after and then drive it normally. The drive cycle procedures are just so that if you have fixed a problem, you can verify that it is really fixed in the quickest possible way.

 

[ACDiecast]

Thanks Joe, I feel a little dumb now. I didn't realize that the elbow on the end of the hose isn't a valve...and looks to be in good shape. I'll leave it alone. As far as the gap, yes, I followed the advice of some of the posts here and gapped them at about .038", which would be just slightly under 1mm.

I'll check the toe links, but as I recall, they are in decent shape as well. I'll use my MaxiSys to reset the trims and logic without disconnecting the battery.

On a semi-related subject, I recently found some standing water in my spare tire well and tracked it to a leak in the trunk seal on the driver's side. What's the best way to repair this? I looked and found a new seal on FleaBay...but I'd rather not fork over $145 for it.

 

[joegr]

I haven't had this issue. If it's not cracked, I'd try removing, lubricating, and reinstalling it. Otherwise, maybe try a little sealant...

 

[jjcool00]

If it is cracked, I'd check some junk yards. Probably get away with paying $10 or less for something like that if you remove it yourself.

 

[ACDiecast]

Thanks for all the help guys. I'll pick up an extra seal if I can find one in a scrap yard. As far as I can see, there isn't any cracking on mine. I'll try and post some pics later, but it appears to be coming from where two pieces of sheet metal are welded together on the body and the seal runs over it. Are there any known spots that tend to leak on the Gen II's?

 

[jjcool00]

Thanks for all the help guys. I'll pick up an extra seal if I can find one in a scrap yard. As far as I can see, there isn't any cracking on mine. I'll try and post some pics later, but it appears to be coming from where two pieces of sheet metal are welded together on the body and the seal runs over it. Are there any known spots that tend to leak on the Gen II's?

You positive it's leaking from there? I've read up on a few cases where the moonroof drain tubes disconnect and water gets into the trunk (assuming you have a moonroof) - you could check there too. Lots and lots of posts about that, quick google search "site:lincolnvscadillac.com Lincoln ls moonroof leak" will yield a lot of threads and how-to's.

Also, I assume you're from Howell, NJ?

 

[LS4me]

Despite what at least one member says........

You said Bettlejuice......

 

[joegr]

You said Bettlejuice......

Wow, that was a mistake. Now this thread will be filled with several posts that I can't read...
Maybe the OP will figure it out. He seems fairly bright...

 

[FDR]

How are your valve cover gaskets? Any leaking oil around them? Burning smells? Leaking VCGs are linked to failing coils. Mine smelled more like burning rubber than burning oil

 

[ACDiecast]

How are your valve cover gaskets? Any leaking oil around them? Burning smells? Leaking VCGs are linked to failing coils. Mine smelled more like burning rubber than burning oil

(Knock on wood) there was no oil or water inside the plug wells. The exterior of the engine looks to be dry and good, any moisture looks to be related to a small PCV leak. There was a small amount of oil on the threads of the plugs, just enough to color the threads and not enough to drip off or really even come off on my hands. No fouling or over-heating was apparent on any of the plugs.

I should have mentioned earlier that all the coils on the driver's side looked to be OEM. The passenger's side had a motley assortment of gray, blue, and one OEM coils on it. All the plugs were Autolite and appeared to be in decent shape.

 

[ACDiecast]

Wow, that was a mistake. Now this thread will be filled with several posts that I can't read...
Maybe the OP will figure it out. He seems fairly bright...

I guess I'm too new here to understand this one?

Thank you by the way, I'd like to think so haha. I'm learning more as I go...these cars have been a heartthrob of mine practically since they came out. I'm very excited to have one and want to make sure I'm doing everything to it as best as it can be.

 

[ACDiecast]

You positive it's leaking from there? I've read up on a few cases where the moonroof drain tubes disconnect and water gets into the trunk (assuming you have a moonroof) - you could check there too. Lots and lots of posts about that, quick google search "site:lincolnvscadillac.com Lincoln ls moonroof leak" will yield a lot of threads and how-to's.

Also, I assume you're from Howell, NJ?

Actually..I'm from Howell, Michigan. I noticed earlier that it displayed Howell but not the state and wondered if that was how everyone one here saw it.

As for the leak...unfortunately, that's one of the few options this one didn't have.

Thanks for the directive with searching by the way! I found that using the site's search bar will display pretty much anything it wants haha.

 

[1LoudLS]

I guess I'm too new here to understand this one?

all you have to do is read most of the thread on the first page... you'll see what hes talking about. there is a guy that no matter what the problem is, he swears that everybody is stupid and wasting money because their problem could have all been fixed by resetting the PCM... Im sure this thread wont make it too much longer with his absence.

 

[ACDiecast]

all you have to do is read most of the thread on the first page... you'll see what hes talking about. there is a guy that no matter what the problem is, he swears that everybody is stupid and wasting money because their problem could have all been fixed by resetting the PCM... Im sure this thread wont make it too much longer with his absence.

Ahh, hahaha, I see. I suppose everyone is entitled to their own opinion...within reason :shifty:

 

[ACDiecast]

- Update -

Thanks again, everyone, for their input. This thread has kinda gotten into the trunk leak issue, so I thought I'd post some pics of what I found.

The other day I rigged up a couple of ladders and a 2x4 to hold a sprinkler above my car while I sat in the backseat with half of it folded forward. I can only imagine what people driving by must have thought... Anyway, after a few minutes, I found a constant, 2-3 second drip coming from the driver's side. I knew this could be finding it's way under the trunk tray and down to the tire well.

After hearing about some people's troubles with taillight seals letting water into the trunk, I wanted to check mine out. (That may have been for Gen I's, I'm not sure) I took both side carpets out and found nothing on the passenger's side to indicate water had ever been present behind the carpet. The driver's side had residue that is consistent with a small pool of water being present along the outside body panel.

I'll include pictures of where the water was dripping from (this is the one with my finger pointing, I have a metallic red LS), as well as ones I took of where two pieces of sheet metal are welded together and the seam intersects the weatherseal. (This is the white one, I went to a local junk yard today and grabbed a few misc. parts I wanted spares of.

My question is...what is the best way to seal this up? The adhesive or sealant used to keep the seal in place seems okay on mine, it is still pliable and viscous even without being in direct sunlight. Would an RTV be best? Or a latex sealant?

 

[LS4me]

I would pull the weatherstripping and clean up the the surfaces. Then I'd use some clear silicone sealant (like the kitchen & bathroom stuff) to reinstall the gasket.

 

[ACDiecast]

- Update #2 -

Alright, well, I really got into it today and checked everything out. I put clear RTV along the entire joint where the two sheet metal pieces come together, and about 8" along the bottom of where the seal bottoms out. I'll include a pic, I did it to both sides. I'm letting it cure, so I won't be able to test it till tomorrow...I'll cross my fingers and let you guys know. It does do a pretty good job of blending in, though, which is what I was hoping would happen.

As for the tune-up, I think it went pretty well! Didn't do the PCV hose...just a new air filter and the plugs and coils. I ended up disconnecting the battery for about 5 minutes, so I went ahead and did the relearn procedure as prescribed by the owners manual. After driving it for about twenty-five miles, I was pretty happy with the results! About 1/3 of the driving was done on a highway at 75, the rest on country roads around 60. Before the new plugs and coils, my reset fuel Econ was down to 14.5ish. My average on this trip was 20.7 and still slowly climbing! I am pretty pleased with this and I hope to continue this trend. Thanks again, folks!

This has got me to wondering if there is any more horsepower that was lost since it was new...that can be revived back. I definitely need to clean my MAF and possibly throttle body, this might help smooth out the initial start. Any thoughts, without getting into aftermarket stuff?

 

[1LoudLS]

This has got me to wondering if there is any more horsepower that was lost since it was new...that can be revived back.

well assuming that any/all external problem that would cause a loss (bad coils, plugs, clogged fuel filter, clogged air filter...) most causes of older engines power loss are inside the engine and would require pulling and repairing... (for example worn rings, or other wear to cause loss of compression)

with 61k miles, I would doubt that you would have much wear or loss of compression.

 

[Telco]

The method you used to seal your trunk lid was pretty much what I did, only I used the clear windshield sealer which flows well so it would flow easily into the seal crevice. It cured my leak and from the sound of things this will cure yours.

 

[RigsLS]

Great thread, glad to see progress like this, the ever so popular leaking into the trunk fix.

 

[xcite105]

I thought my burning smells were somehow related to my halfass'd exhaust job. However, I recently noticed a bit of oil in the wells during my last coil volume 3 replacement. What kind of damage or time frame could I expect from this? I worry I will have to change my coils again because the car is starting to shudder under moderate acceleration again. Although, not as bad as before. Obviously I will replace my VC gaskets now rather than later, I just worry my coils may have been damaged.

 

[LS4me]

I thought my burning smells were somehow related to my halfass'd exhaust job. However, I recently noticed a bit of oil in the wells during my last coil volume 3 replacement. What kind of damage or time frame could I expect from this? I worry I will have to change my coils again because the car is starting to shudder under moderate acceleration again. Although, not as bad as before. Obviously I will replace my VC gaskets now rather than later, I just worry my coils may have been damaged.

Probably have. I would go ahead and replace all the coils AND plugs....

 

[1LoudLS]

easy, suck out all of the oil, then if it still doesn't run perfect, then its time again fro new plugs and coils.

 

[xcite105]

Ok. So I cleaned up all the wells prior to changing the valve cover gasket kit (which includes the plug grommets). I know there is a way to check the pulse width or resistance. The car does run better, I still have a faint odor of sulfur under hard acceleration. I am sure the coils have suffered some. I replaced the previously purchased motorcraft platinum plugs with NGX IX plugs. I still have the same BWD coils on it as well. I have a multimeter. I am sure there is a troubleshooting tree available somewhere on this site. The search feature seems to work better from google though. Any tips would be great!