Two battery's??(and alt ? again)

SilverLS

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Anyone doing this on the LS....Im going to run two as soon as I get the altenator problem fixed.....I was told to run them parrell(spelling) this mean + to -....- to + on the batteries right.....I am gonna run One Optima red top (hooking all the crap directly to this and the second is a die-hard performac (not really) but anyone done this yet or know how to do it ?????



And a second note regarding my other post....the battery light come on when putting around and the car is still makine 12.5-13 at idle and 14 at highway speeds(2,000 rmp's or higher)......and have not needed to jump start the car yet last night I was parked with the car running and had the defroster wippers headlights and flashers on and was idling for about 10 mins and the battery was down to about 11 volts.....as soon as I started driving back to the hotel it went up to 14 again........I am so over this damn crap Im going to have to pull the altenator this week(friday if I make it till then) and buy a 200.00 one from the parts store and hope that is what it is....where is the voltage regulator on this car (someone told me it's built in the alt. and there is no way to change it????) I am not sure is this is true ????
 
my buddy had a huge heavy duty battery ( ones that go on trucks ) it had to be around 1500 CA's or something sick like that, for his system. and he had an 200 amp alt. with everything on headlights, wipers...etc including his system on! his voltage was ranging from 13.8-14.0 that i know. so i would use the battery which has the most CA's to the system ( duh ). good luck!
 
ca are cracking amps that does not mean the battery is stronger for longer......The fact he had a 200 amp alt was the key....I had a 210 in my s10 I could idle with 2 15's pounding powered by a 2400watt (1200rms amp run buy a 0 gauge wire) 32 neon lights (dont ask why) strobe headlights a tv dvd for a long period of time and it ran (at idle 12.8) with all this going on but give it 1000 rpms and it was back up to 13.8 with no problem.....is a 130 amp the biggest I can buy for the ls .....without having one made.....I cant find anything anywhere.....
 
I believe the voltage regulator is built into the alternator on the LS. Most late model cars are this way.

As for 2 batts, yes make absolutely sure you wire in parallel. if you wire in series you will create a 24V system. 24v is great except it's fry every component in your car.

I'd also be VERY hesitant to do this with 2 different types of batteries.
 
SilverLS said:
I was told to run them parrell(spelling) this mean + to -....- to + on the batteries right........
QUOTE]

IIRC
Parrallel = + to + & - to - this would be 12v high capacity
Series = + to - to + to - this would be 24v

Your setup of + to - on the same Battery & - to + on the other = direct short
 
just pretend your wiring up to jump start off the second battery. that's what you're doing.....+ to +, - to -
 
I have a factory ford batt, and a yellow top and the lights still dim. I'm guna have to go with a hi amp alt.
 
zexls said:
I have a factory ford batt, and a yellow top and the lights still dim. I'm guna have to go with a hi amp alt.
do you know where to get a high voltage alternator? do you know where one is or you need one, if you know where to get one let me know where and how much
thanks
 
SilverLS said:
do you know where to get a high voltage alternator? do you know where one is or you need one, if you know where to get one let me know where and how much
thanks

I would HIGHLY recommend PA Performance. They don't show an application for the LS, but I would definitely talk to them about it. They make some of the best stuff out there and they have an outstanding reputation.

http://pa-performance.com/

The answer is not two batteries, it's correcting and upgrading your charging system. You need to have an alternator that puts out more at lower rpm's to cure the issue your having.
 
yes I know but when I if I get a higher amp alt and two batterys cant hurt (it would be better for my use) I am running alot of goodies in the car when I working so I need something that is not gonna leave me calling a tow truck to get jumped.....

thanks guys I am gonna find one soon.....
 
SilverLS said:
do you know where to get a high voltage alternator? do you know where one is or you need one, if you know where to get one let me know where and how much
thanks
I have a guy that will do it for $50 and it has a 5yr warranty
 
HyeLifeLS said:
whats funny:confused:

I dont know what he does for 50$ .....does he need a new one or will the one Im having problems with work.....how many amps does he make it how long does it take????? what am I getting for 50$
 
this is along the lines of what you had in mind right???

bj.gif
 
Two Batteries

First things first, when hooking up two batteries, you do run them in parrellel, meaning + to + - to -.
Second thing is you do not just put a second battery in your car and expect all of your power problems to go away.
Third, cold cranking AMPS is just that, cranking AMPS, not running AMPS or reserve capacity.

Now for the bad news, just hooking up two batteries, especially if they are not identical causes the batteries to behave as if you had two batteries with the rating of the lowest battery. If not, the lowest capacity battery would overcharge and die. Then the higher capacity battery would be made incapable of obtaining a full charge and would be made essentially weaker.

The only proper way to install two batteries in your system is with the use of a battery isolater. It is essentially a switch which allows the batteries to be charged independent of each other and does not require them to be identical. You could then hook up all of your high draw components to the battery with the highest reserve capacity and never have to worry about draining the battery that you are using to run the car. And most battery isolators available today include some voltage sensing and cutoff abilities so that equipment will not overheat and be damaged by low voltage situations. A fully charged battery is essential to making your car run correctly and making sure that you have good connections and a good charging systems is imperative to keeping cars with fuel injectors and computers running at peak performance levels.

Last but not least, almost all cars built since the mid to late 80's have alternators with built in regulators. A better option than putting two batteries in a car is to go with a very high output or police spec alternator and a deep cycle battery like the Optima series of batteries. Make sure that all of your connections are soldered and not just crimped, make sure that all of your grounds are to bare metal, keep the power leads as short as possible, fuse them correctly, and add correctly sized capacitors to all high draw audio components. Nothing like going fast in a nice car and being able to listen to your tunes without that annoying drag and distortion caused by low power conditions.
 
bufordtpisser said:
First things first, when hooking up two batteries, you do run them in parrellel, meaning + to + - to -.
Second thing is you do not just put a second battery in your car and expect all of your power problems to go away.
Third, cold cranking AMPS is just that, cranking AMPS, not running AMPS or reserve capacity.

Now for the bad news, just hooking up two batteries, especially if they are not identical causes the batteries to behave as if you had two batteries with the rating of the lowest battery. If not, the lowest capacity battery would overcharge and die. Then the higher capacity battery would be made incapable of obtaining a full charge and would be made essentially weaker.

The only proper way to install two batteries in your system is with the use of a battery isolater. It is essentially a switch which allows the batteries to be charged independent of each other and does not require them to be identical. You could then hook up all of your high draw components to the battery with the highest reserve capacity and never have to worry about draining the battery that you are using to run the car. And most battery isolators available today include some voltage sensing and cutoff abilities so that equipment will not overheat and be damaged by low voltage situations. A fully charged battery is essential to making your car run correctly and making sure that you have good connections and a good charging systems is imperative to keeping cars with fuel injectors and computers running at peak performance levels.

Last but not least, almost all cars built since the mid to late 80's have alternators with built in regulators. A better option than putting two batteries in a car is to go with a very high output or police spec alternator and a deep cycle battery like the Optima series of batteries. Make sure that all of your connections are soldered and not just crimped, make sure that all of your grounds are to bare metal, keep the power leads as short as possible, fuse them correctly, and add correctly sized capacitors to all high draw audio components. Nothing like going fast in a nice car and being able to listen to your tunes without that annoying drag and distortion caused by low power conditions.
I know about these and thats what I was thinking about doing anyways.....also I have an optima already....I need to find somewhere to get a bigger alternator but know one seems to be able to point me in the right direction.....so ......if someone could let me know where to get one......
 
hey man did you see the link that put up there, I think it's the 10th reply, the ebay link. They have a 170 amp alt, the stock one is 110 I think. Shouldn't 170 be alright?
 
Silver...check PA Performance! Their link is in post # 10. See they can't get you one to fit. Believe me, they have an outstanding reputation.
 
PA Performance

PA Performance has a really good reputation. I usually have mine custom built, but just about any reputable Stereo Installation House will have a good source of High Output alternators available. Andthe good thing about getting alternators through stereo install houses is that they make sure that as well as high output, they are also built to avoid noise and interference issues with internal filters and higher quality brushes and capacitors.
 

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