Upper baljoints or A-arms

MrScalia

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my balljoints look bad (split) , Wheat is cheeper or EZer to replace the just the ball joints of ezer to repalce the A-arm

I kinda rember reading here that the a-arm is'nt much more cost wise?
 
You have to replace the arm with the joint. The upper units are sold as units only.


the lowers are replaceable, but for the price, it's easier to replace the whole thing.


Mike

PS....rockauto.com is your friend
 
Also, If you want to save a little money, you can buy 96 T-bird units and weld the sensor tabs off of your old arms on to them. Save you like 50 bucks.


Mike
 
I think I paid about $72 at Advance for TRW brand.
Not too hard to replace.
 
are you talking about the upper control arms? If so they r not hard to replace, but I dont konow about the air suspension, but I lowered my car and I will have to take off the frnt. shocks to do them, really easy though, 4 bolts a shock, 3 for the upper control arm
 
buddylee said:
thanks,
using the t-bird a-arms I have like 0 welding skills.

If you have no welding ability, it's probably not worth getting the T-bird arms.
I just bought a set from RockAuto last week. I'll probably install them this weekend too.
 
I have to replace the entire front end! Do you guys think its worth going with the polyurethane bushings? I think I have to buy them seperate correct?
 
Theres a guy on that site where they auction stuff who normally has a set of a arms for 120.
 
fastmarkviii said:
are you talking about the upper control arms? If so they r not hard to replace, but I dont konow about the air suspension, but I lowered my car and I will have to take off the frnt. shocks to do them, really easy though, 4 bolts a shock, 3 for the upper control arm
With air suspension you have to take the struts out, or at least let the air out and remove the top 3 nuts, then compress the strut. This will help you to get the bolts out.
 
Jibit said:
I have to replace the entire front end! Do you guys think its worth going with the polyurethane bushings? I think I have to buy them seperate correct?

Yes it is worth it!
 
Just did my uppers a couple weeks ago (2nd time around for this car - only 79K - first was done by Lincoln at 50K) .

Uppers are not too bad to replace took me 2 hours on the pass side and maybe 2 1/2 on the driver side. I was taking my time and working on other stuff too. Do your fuel filter why you have the pass side tire off.

The driver's side you have to loosen the Master cylinder and move out of the way to get to the one nut.

Separating the ball joint from the spindle was not a fun job on mine, as the joint had separated from the arm during the removal process - good thing that didn't happen while driving.

TRWs seem to be pretty good parts, MOOG I was suspicious on - they were only $38 where the TRW was $78. The Moog joint I could move by hand - but TRW was super tight. Brakes and suspension I wont go cheap on.
 
TRW is an OEM supplier...better than Moog in this case.
As far as the driver's side goes, I unplugged things in the master cylinder area, and was able to reach under there with a breaker bar and a deep socket and get at the nut. Some people say they go in through an access hole with extensions and "u joints". It's not as easy as outlined in this article http://www.lincolnsonline.com/tech/00097.html but not TOO difficult.
 

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