Upper control arm/balljoint

M

my95mark8

Guest
Where is the best place to buy upper control arms?
I saw them at Arnott $129 a pair.
Also, I saw an article on changing the...I can't remember where.
 
I have the arnott units on my 94' and have'nt had any problems out of em after 15K miles. LVC Gold members get a discount from them, 20% *I THINK* (don't quote me on it)
 
Here is a pic of the front suspension.....
frontsensordiagram.gif

It is relatively easy to get to the passenger side upper control arm than it is to get to the drivers side, mainly because the brake resevoir is it the way of the nut closest to the firewall on the drivers side. You will need either a 18MM wrench, or a 18MM crowsfoot attachment for a ratchet to remove the bolts on the upper control arm. If I remember correctly this is what I did to replace mine which I did it....
1) Turn off the air ride in the trunk.
2) Jack up the car and place a jack stand underneath.
3) Remove the wheel/tire.
4) Loosen/remove the nut/bolt that holds the ball joint to the
spindle (I do not remember the size).
5) Loosen/remove the two bolts/nuts that hold the upper control
arm in place (If I remember correctly you will have to pull
the solenoid for the air bag out of the way to get to one of
the bolts, and maybe even pull the air bag out of the way.)
6) Remove upper control arm......now reverse steps.

I am pretty positive that is what I had to do. I did both side already and have had no problems with them since. If you want, or have any questions you can either inbox me here, or email me.

Hope this helps a bit.....:D

 
Thanks! Nice step by step and picture. Luckilly, it's the passenger side with the problem, the other side seems nice and tight. I was just out there with a flashlight looking around. The bolts look pretty accessible. I sprayed down the nuts with rust penetrant.
I found that my local Advance auto parts has the for $80 per side. I think they are TRW brand. I am going to make some calls tomorrow from work, see if I can find one cheaper...I can get parts wholesale because I work at a car dealer.
 
I looked again, and it's pretty tight between the rear bolt and reciever/dryer.
 
Threadlocker....not needed because the upper nuts are nylok (spelling?) nuts.....no threadlocker needed.

As for the torque requirements......for the upper control arm nuts the book calls for 56-88 lb-ft, and the upper spindle lock nut needs to be torqued to 50-68 lb-ft.

Hope that helps.....lemme know if you need anything else....:D

The book tells you to break the tabs off of the bolts for the UCA, but I did not because I did not purchase new bolts/nuts as the book calls for. Not really needed. Just leave the tabs on the bolts so when you tighten it you do not need another set of hands to do so....the tab will rest up against the slot it goes into and help you tighten the nut down.

Here is another pic to help ya......

A - Tighten to 75-120 N-m (56-88 Lb-Ft)

B - Tighten to 68-92 N-m (50-68 Lb-Ft)

frontsus.jpg
 
my95mark8 said:
Thanks! Nice step by step and picture. Luckilly, it's the passenger side with the problem, the other side seems nice and tight. I was just out there with a flashlight looking around. The bolts look pretty accessible. I sprayed down the nuts with rust penetrant.
I found that my local Advance auto parts has the for $80 per side. I think they are TRW brand. I am going to make some calls tomorrow from work, see if I can find one cheaper...I can get parts wholesale because I work at a car dealer.
Click to expand...

I got mine from Autozone for $65 a piece.
 
I actually ended up getting it for $74.95, which is their internet price. My local auto zone didn't stock them. Didn't get it done yet, yesterday was too cold, today it's snowing...I don't have ANYTHING 18 mm, besides a short impact socket...
Anyone out there want to do it for me, or loan me their garage?
 
What holds the joint into the top of the spindle? I see a groove on the shaft. Doe that fit into another groove inside the hole? Or does only the bolt fit in that groove. How much do you have to spread that apart to get it out of there?
 
my95mark8 said:
What holds the joint into the top of the spindle? I see a groove on the shaft. Doe that fit into another groove inside the hole? Or does only the bolt fit in that groove. How much do you have to spread that apart to get it out of there?
Click to expand...

Only the bolt holds it in, in the groove. You can't spread it apart. I had to use a rubber mallet and hammer the arm upward to get it loose.
 
Oh.
One of the articles I saw said to drive a cold chisel in there to spread it apart. It didn't sound like a good idea to me.
 
my95mark8 said:
Oh.
One of the articles I saw said to drive a cold chisel in there to spread it apart. It didn't sound like a good idea to me.
Click to expand...

Nah. Not necessary. Just use lots of PB blaster beforehand, and hammer it out of there. Should come out little by little.
 
Well, we got it done. :) Ended up taking it into the shop where I work. One of the guys there did most of the work, I helped a bit...but he did most of it. I never would have been able to do this in my driveway. The lift air air tools made a HUGE difference.
We ended up trying to remove the strut to get the bolt on the front side out, because there was not enough room to get it out. The bottom bolt is STUCK in the comtrol arm, we tried but could not get it out (damn salty New England roads). Instead of removing it completely, we just took the nuts off the top of the strut and were able to compress the strut to get the bolts out.
It was tough getting the ball joint out of the top of the spindle, it was VERY rusty inside although it looked pretty clean on the outside.
I am glad that this is done now, BUT, I worry that we might have disturbed something because I drove the car for about 1/2 hour to get home, let it sit for another 1/2 hour, and the suspension sunk.:confused: I know the suspension leaks, but I was hoping to get by for a while longer.
This job took about an hour to do. I am sure it would be faster the second time...knowing how to do it.
 
Just a FYI on those Arnott UCA's,, I just got done with a pair of these 9K miles ago and both are bad. The left side has a ball joint that has gone bad and the right side had the bushing fail to the point its rattling back and forth.

Arnott claims a lifetime warranty and I have a RMA number to send them back but lets see if they keep there end of the deal.. this is still a PITA that only after 9K miles they go bad??!

Also both arms and painted black and have no grease fitting so I'm not sure of the maker... I brought these before I learned they are simply a reseller!! thought I was spending the extra money and getting better parts. I guess way wrong.

atleast I learn something new every day.

Brad
 
wow some people dont know how to look for the date of a thread!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!



its ONLY 4 years old!
 
HOLY CR_ _!!!!

I thought I was on Ghost whisperer for a minute...
While it was good to see the avitar and handle It did bring back memories of our conversations..

Rest in Peace..my good friend. We still think of you.

Max
 
my95mark8 said:
Well, we got it done. :) Ended up taking it into the shop where I work. One of the guys there did most of the work, I helped a bit...but he did most of it. I never would have been able to do this in my driveway. The lift air air tools made a HUGE difference.
We ended up trying to remove the strut to get the bolt on the front side out, because there was not enough room to get it out. The bottom bolt is STUCK in the comtrol arm, we tried but could not get it out (damn salty New England roads). Instead of removing it completely, we just took the nuts off the top of the strut and were able to compress the strut to get the bolts out.
It was tough getting the ball joint out of the top of the spindle, it was VERY rusty inside although it looked pretty clean on the outside.
I am glad that this is done now, BUT, I worry that we might have disturbed something because I drove the car for about 1/2 hour to get home, let it sit for another 1/2 hour, and the suspension sunk.:confused: I know the suspension leaks, but I was hoping to get by for a while longer.
This job took about an hour to do. I am sure it would be faster the second time...knowing how to do it.
Click to expand...

To properly remove lower bolt on air bag, both sides of car have to be supported. I ran into this the first time I went to change a front air bag.
 
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