URGENT.....Need HELP !!! Replacing sway bar...

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LSC_YA

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We bought a 2001 LS sport V8 59,000 miles and mint,. The only thing was the dreaded front end clunk. Went to see my buddy at the LM dealer and 95.00 later I had a updated bar. Today we got the old bar unbolted and cant seem to get it out!!! Whats the trick to removing, I took the old brackets and bushings off to gain some room but no luck. Do I need to unbolt the transmission crossmember and drop the trans a little to bring the engine up he front to gain some room? And if a bare bar wont come out how in the hell is the new one with bushings and brackets going in?? Come on somebodys got to know the trick, got to get it back on the road tomorrow nite. Thanks for any help.....
 
there's a guide in the tech section. I can tell you i've heard it's a real pita. having done a trans swap myself it wouldn't be too much work to drop the tail. then you'd have a lot of room IMO. just remember you may want to disconnect the wiring harnesses and/or cooler tubes first.
 
this says to pull the multi cooler assy, the rad etc, but thats ford/linc's way their could be a short cut

SECTION 204-01: Front Suspension 2001 Lincoln LS Workshop Manual
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION Procedure revision date: 11/05/2003

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Stabilizer Bar
Removal and Installation

All vehicles


CAUTION: Suspension fasteners are critical parts because they affect the performance of vital components and systems and their failure can result in major service expense. A new part with the same part number must be installed if installation becomes necessary. Do not use a new part of lesser quality or substitute design. Torque values must be used as specified during reassembly to make sure of correct retention of these parts.

Remove the upper radiator sight shield.

Remove the air cleaner. For additional information, refer to Section 303-12.
Drain the engine cooling system. For additional information, refer to Section 303-03.
Disconnect the upper radiator hose.
Disconnect the lower radiator hose.
Disconnect the dual flow coolant valve electrical connector and the A/C line from the fan shroud.

3.0L Engines


Disconnect the throttle position (TP) sensor and the idle air control (IAC) valve electrical connectors.

All vehicles


Separate the return hose from the fan shroud and position aside.

Disconnect the lower radiator hose.

Remove the two bolts and position the multi-cooler assembly and fan shroud assembly aside.

Remove the front wheel and tire assemblies. For additional information, refer to Section 204-04.
Remove two pushpins, four bolts and both splash shields.

Remove the bolts and the shield.

NOTE: To remove the nut, first loosen the nut, then use the hex holding feature to prevent the stabilizer bar link ball joint from turning while removing the nut.

Remove the nut and disconnect the stabilizer bar link (5K483). Discard the nut.

NOTE: To remove the nut, first loosen the nut, then use the hex holding feature to prevent the stabilizer bar link ball joint from turning while removing the nut.

Remove the nut and stabilizer bar link. Discard the nut.

Remove and discard the nut and bolt. Disconnect the left shock absorber and spring assembly.

NOTE: To remove the nut, first loosen the nut, then use the hex holding feature to prevent the lower control arm ball joint from turning while removing the nut.

NOTE: Make sure not to lose the tapered washer on the ball joint.

Remove and discard the nut. Disconnect the left suspension lower arm and position the knuckle (3K185) out of the way.

Remove the bolt and detach the A/C hose retainer. Position the A/C hose aside.

NOTE: To ease removal of the right front bolt, remove it first.

Remove the bolts and the stabilizer bar brackets and bushings.

NOTE: Deflect the LH lower control arm downward to ease removal of the stabilizer bar.

Carefully remove the stabilizer bar through the left wheel well.
NOTE: The replacement stabilizer bar includes the brackets and bushings as an assembly.

To install, reverse the removal procedure.







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Thanks for the info..more questions

Will the spring need to be supported when removing lower control arm from spindle? Will this have an adverse effect on alignment?
 
don't worry about the spring, however if you disconnect any control arm to frame bolts your alignment will be shot.
 
and maybe i'm reading wrong but i don't see where those instructions say to remove the radiator or the multi cooler.
 
Thanks much, I guess we will give it shot tommorrow, If you think of anything else post it ,I will check before starting. Thanks again
 
beaups said:
and maybe i'm reading wrong but i don't see where those instructions say to remove the radiator or the multi cooler.
Click to expand...

Me either and I wont unless I have to!! Does anyone know if it has to be removed.
 
Well going to get started in about 1/2 hour, any last minute tips ? Thanks for the help and I will post results later today.
 
The clunking is gone !!!

Well the swat bar is in and is one PITA !!! I would rather do 3 blend door motors on a MARK VIII any time. Well its the updated bar so maybe thats the last time for this car. thanks for all the answers to questions last nite guys. later
 
Please post just what you had to do to get it in and out! I'm looking at this on my son's 01 V8 and I'm looking forward to it like a migrane.....
 
how do you know if this needs to be replaced. is the clunking obvious? would it be a common problem on a 2000?
 
Clunking is obvious when you hit a bump or rough roads. It is kind of a bouncing sound. It totally got rid of clunk.
 
2001LS8Sport said:
Please post just what you had to do to get it in and out! I'm looking at this on my son's 01 V8 and I'm looking forward to it like a migrane.....
Click to expand...

You may have a migrane by the time all said and done. With that being said the info chickenviii posted helped a lot. You do have to take l.h. control arm loose at the knuckle (spindle) and we ended up doing the r.h. also for a little more room. I didnt remove rad, and cooling fan but loosened them up for a little movement. It still looked like a know go, but after a few raps on the end of bar with a hammer it came loose and we snaked it out. It also took a couple of raps to go back in also. I dont see a easy way to slide out with out a total tear down of front end of car. Its a pain but do able. It I can help I will do what I can...good luck
 
i forgot i posted here gald the info helped, i thought it said to remove the "multi-cooler" thing but i guess i was wrong, so it sounds like when i eventually have to do one of these at work it will suck................great
and i allready cant wait to replace my blend door motor whooo hooo
 
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