Water Pump Gasket

R

rgorke

Dedicated LVC Member
Joined
Aug 5, 2017
Messages
640
Reaction score
102
Location
Camarillo, CA
I replaced my thermostat when I thought my issue was with the thermostat. I also saw coolant stains from around the water pump. Previously, I had replaced the pump with one of the metal propellor types from Christopher (I understand he passed away earlier this year...: ().

I fortunately found a Motorcraft thermostat in my stash of Lincoln stuff. I cleaned up around the water pump and reinstalled it using the existing gasket because I could not find a new one that is the metal type with rubber around the holes. The metal type seems unavailable.

I still have a leak around the top of the water pump. It is difficult to determine if it is from using an old water pump gasket or from another source, possibly the O-ring from the 9N499 and the cross pipe. Again, all plastics (9N499, cross pipe, thermostat housing, degas bottle) and hoses have <50k miles on them.

Prior to this repair, there was coolant staining down the front of the engine front cover and I did notice that one of my water pump bolts was not torqued properly, e.g. it wasn't very tight. (That's 100% on me...ugh!)

A couple of other questions...
Is the water pump for the Gen 1 V8 the same as the Gen 2 V8? Rockauto has the exact same Motorcraft part listed for the Water pumps. Therefore, the gaskets should be the same, right? RockAuto has what appears to be metal gaskets for the Gen 1 but not Gen 2. More Information for VICTOR REINZ 711420600

Has anyone tried cleaning off a used metal water pump gasket and applied silicone RTV with success?
 
rgorke said:
I replaced my thermostat when I thought my issue was with the thermostat. I also saw coolant stains from around the water pump. Previously, I had replaced the pump with one of the metal propellor types from Christopher (I understand he passed away earlier this year...: ().

I fortunately found a Motorcraft thermostat in my stash of Lincoln stuff. I cleaned up around the water pump and reinstalled it using the existing gasket because I could not find a new one that is the metal type with rubber around the holes. The metal type seems unavailable.

I still have a leak around the top of the water pump. It is difficult to determine if it is from using an old water pump gasket or from another source, possibly the O-ring from the 9N499 and the cross pipe. Again, all plastics (9N499, cross pipe, thermostat housing, degas bottle) and hoses have <50k miles on them.

Prior to this repair, there was coolant staining down the front of the engine front cover and I did notice that one of my water pump bolts was not torqued properly, e.g. it wasn't very tight. (That's 100% on me...ugh!)

A couple of other questions...
Is the water pump for the Gen 1 V8 the same as the Gen 2 V8? Rockauto has the exact same Motorcraft part listed for the Water pumps. Therefore, the gaskets should be the same, right? RockAuto has what appears to be metal gaskets for the Gen 1 but not Gen 2. More Information for VICTOR REINZ 711420600

Has anyone tried cleaning off a used metal water pump gasket and applied silicone RTV with success?
Click to expand...
I have a 06 LS and i had to check at night with a flashlight to see my waterpump was throwing a drip of coolant every now and then from the top of the pump that's hidden by the throttle body. Changed waterpump and reused the metal gasket fixed mine. I smeared a very thin layer of sealant on the waterpump side to hold the gasket in place to install the pump. Another mysterious leak i found later on i had to use a little gasket sealer across the top of my thermostat housing where the thermostat housing bolts together because when it got up to temp the weight of the aux pump and the coolant hose was causing my housing to seperate just enough to let a little air in. When that composite plastic cooled it would pull itself back together and seal itself off. Gasket sealer fixed it. Rockauto lists a metal replacement gasket for my 06 but it's out of stock. If they list it as the same part number for both gens then it should work on both. I know some people say always replace all the cooling parts at the same time but the only parts i have ever replaced or fixed on my cooling system is the waterpump, thermostat and thermostat housing(replaced housing once because a clip broke off that holds the thermostat in)used gasket sealer across the top once, and i epoxied a spot on my original degas bottle. Other than that everything is all original holding pressure and still running great.
 
I ended up getting a metal water pump gasket from my local Jag dealership. Cost me the British luxury price of $31 but at least I know it’s right.

Now, I have discovered the true source of my issue. As I was assembling parts, I see this slight crack in my cross pipe. Ugh! This only has 25-30k miles on it!

Fortunately, I have a spare that had one of the T-stat thread inserts come loose. I have epoxied it in and will use a longer screw with a nut on the back side to ensure it doesn’t come loose.

These are both Motorcraft parts. The issue is also that some of these parts have been sitting around for 10-20 years aging.

Who was looking to develop an aluminum version?

IMG_3856.jpeg
 
rgorke said:
I ended up getting a metal water pump gasket from my local Jag dealership. Cost me the British luxury price of $31 but at least I know it’s right.

Now, I have discovered the true source of my issue. As I was assembling parts, I see this slight crack in my cross pipe. Ugh! This only has 25-30k miles on it!

Fortunately, I have a spare that had one of the T-stat thread inserts come loose. I have epoxied it in and will use a longer screw with a nut on the back side to ensure it doesn’t come loose.

These are both Motorcraft parts. The issue is also that some of these parts have been sitting around for 10-20 years aging.

Who was looking to develop an aluminum version?

View attachment 828579330
Click to expand...
I believe @SteveOwens posted a thread or in one that he had all aluminum colling parts made.
 
Thanks! Of course, when I went to torque the other two T-stat bolts, those inserts gave and had to epoxy those.

I also ordered a new one from FPG.

This is my third Motorcraft outlet cross pipe.
 
rgorke said:
Thanks! Of course, when I went to torque the other two T-stat bolts, those inserts gave and had to epoxy those.

I also ordered a new one from FPG.

This is my third Motorcraft outlet cross pipe.
Click to expand...
Awe man that sucks! Its good you was able to fix it yourself. I do all the work on my vehicles and i seem to have that same kind of "luck". Friday i snapped a EGR valve bolt off in the aluminum intake of a 97 Aerostar Van. And just like the LS finding parts for the Aerostar is almost impossible. So now im having to drill the broken bolt out and hopefully i can rethread the hole. I learned something by removing the intake and that EGR Valve is the enemy of a engine. I know it's better for the enviroment by reducing harmful gases but the inside of the intake has black gummy carbon buildup nearly a quarter inch thick thats all came from the EGR valve. I can only imagine how much of that crap has built up around the valves or what other damage it's doing to the rest of that engine. Now i know why people make such a big deal about deleting the EGR.
 
The good news is that I managed to get it to work! The epoxy did NOT hold. What I was able to do was use slightly longer screws and put a small nut on the opposite side. It wasn’t easy finding nuts in my stash that would clear in the back. Once I was able to get the nut on and tight on the back, I could torque them to 89 in/lb.

After an efficient bleed, we are back in business.
 
Here’s a picture of the insert fix…this is the top left bolt if looking at the front of the T-stat housing.

IMG_3857.jpeg
 
Buckie said:
now im having to drill the broken bolt out and hopefully i can rethread the hole.
Click to expand...
Don't drill out the bolt hole. That bolt is harder than the drill bit. You won't get very far... except for dulling the drill bit. You'll have to heat everything up after a good soaking of PB Blaster, and letting it sit overnight... Then use the heat.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Members online

No members online now.
Total: 97 (members: 0, guests: 97)
Back
Top