Wawful's Build Thread

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Wawful

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Well guys I've been collecting parts and getting prices going for my build. I have a 1993 Lincoln Mk VIII in pearl white with a tan interior. most of the bells and whistles. I got the car for 1900 bucks thinking I got a good deal then soon there-after found a rod knock on cylinder 2. At that point I was torn, sell this new car I know nothing about and cut my losses....or try and get it figured out. I chose the latter. My plans for the car are to mildly build the beast and daily drive it. I plan on keeping all the creature comforts and adding some seat of your pants zing. So far I have the parts to fix what's wrong and I'm building my store of performance stuff in the mean time. Right now I have a 0 miles rebuild Iron short block out of a 2006 pick up out of the romeo plant. I plan on building this block mildly while swapping over my current heads/intake/accessories etc. I also have a spare 2v long block and ecu+accessories and 4R70W out of a 40k mile 1996 Thunderbird that had been wrecked. Both the transmission and engine are running and in good condition as far as I know. I plan on Doing a J-mod or similar shift kit on this transmission then slapping it in the mark.

My plans for the car:
-Transmission J-mod or similar
-Off road X-pipe+cherry bombs (already have the x-pipe, taking suggestions on mufflers I want a nice "thunder" not too pitchy or high sounding)
-Trans cooler R&R
-External Oil cooler and a priming pump (i'm scared of stravation it's just a me thing, better safe than sorry)
-American air suspensions 1.5" lowering kit with monroe struts all the way round along with new control arms and bushing all the way round including stabilizer bar links and tie rod ends
-Hub swap + brakes
-Tint
-Intake mods? I don't know of many besides the cobra manifold, taking suggestions.
-EGR delete
-IMRC delete
-wheels and tires
-New head unit+sub and amp (I'm young I still have an excuse for ridiculous music! haha)
-and maybe a mild stall

I'm sure there are some aspirations that I'm missing but I have more than enough to get to right now. I'm excited to get working on this thing once the weather gets a little better. I'm sure I'll need a hand along the way and will learn a thing or two on my own that may help others in the future. So let's get to it! I'll post pictures later today. Here is a link to the pictures I have in my welcome wagon thread. http://www.lincolnvscadillac.com/fo...awful-s-Mark-VIII&p=2037337241#post2037337241
 
It was only 350 bucks, it has ARP hardware and I'm gonna rebuild my teksid once it's out, with "mo' POWAH!!"

Oh also forgot to mention I plan on getting some 4:10's as well

BTW what's wrong with the iron blocks you are the second person to say something about it
 
Too heavy, not as strong as the aluminum,

The only one that was similar in strength would be the 03-04 Terminator..

But Iron..140lb vs 78lb for the Teksid
 
yeah I knew weight would be a factor, but a deal is a deal. I don't plan on going crazy with the power maybe if i'm lucky 290 at the wheels. but that is only a semi-educated guess haha, I'm still new with these cars.
 
driller said:
290 RWHP with a 2V 4.6L?

Good luck.
Click to expand...

No, Basically i'm replacing the teksid short block in my car for a rebuilt iron short block becasue i have rod knock. I will be using my 4v heads & intake from the current teksid block so no, 290 RWHP on a 4v set-up. The other long block is for spare parts or to sell to fund the project, I bought it with a transmission because I wanted another transmission, the long block was basically a free extra. I payed 250 bux for both. Also, maybe correct my numbers and teach me something in stead of that snarkiness. I seriously have NO IDEA what to expect so if i'm wrong i already pointed out that it was a semi-educated guess.
 
Either drop another Mark VIII motor in it, or a Cobra and do some tweaking.. Or a Coyote and a lot of tweaking. None of this Iron block business. Save that for an old Buick
 
You can find running Teksids for $300, I fail to see the savings
 
Is there a fitment problem with the iron block? Do I have to port match gaskets or coolant passages? Why is it such a bad idea to use this block? Did I miss something I'm really just going to use it to hold me over until I can get a centrifugal set up on the teksid block and swap out again but it will take me a while on a college kid budget to throw that together so I'm just trying to get a start. I'll search more when I get a chance. I feel like I might be missing Big haha
 
I could not find a running teksid block in my area that I had the time to aquire or could afford, my bad guys...
 
There's a lot more to it than just slapping the 4V heads on the 2V long block. Start with the difference in compression.

Not saying you can't, there's just no way it will be cost effective once it's all said and done. Even the little parts start adding up quick.

If you get more than 220 RWHP out of it without digging into the long block, I'll be surprised.
 
Thank you. I was under the impression it was pretty straight forward. I knew I would have to swap all the accessories as well as the front timing components and what not. I didn't know compression was lower on the iron block. What was the stock compression for non 4 valve engines?
 
Oh I misread that. I plan on putting the 4 valve heads and other mk viii timing components and accessories on the rebuilt iron short block not the 2 valve long block we
 
http://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ford_Modular_engine

If your plans are to pull your knocking block for a rebuild, plus build an iron block to limp around with until your parts pile/+rebuild are completed. Then you're dumping way too much coin on some crutches. Especially on a college budget unless someone else is fitting that bill.
And welcome to LVC btw, I don't mean to be brash, but its better us yell "stay the hell out of the pool!" before you go diving in the jellyfish pond. It may be cool at first, but it'll sting later
 
yeah your compression ratio will plummet unless you change the internals or something.
down to about 8.5 to 1 or something.
 
It's been a while since I've seen a 2v with the heads off and I won't claim to be an expert on them. One quick check that is pretty simple, if you only have 2v reliefs in the pistons for clearance and you need 4... It isn't going to work out so well. If it has none and the clearance is good you should be just fine. The next is all your timing components, pretty sure the lower gear and mess will have to be changed out to 4v components. If you check out mmr's site they call out some of the part differences between iron and aluminum.
You would have to look at the head cc and do the math for the comp ratio, if it's down around 8 it will drive but it will be a pig.
Welcome to LVC, best of luck.
 
Yeah it's why I came to you guys, I didn't realize the compression would be that much different. I am majoring in automotive technology I'm less than one semester away from achieving my associates of applied science, so I'm not totally daft when it comes to automotive stuff, just not to knowledgeable on these particular platforms. I live with my mom and get minimal Financial aid but i also have a part time job and do side work on cars to make ends meet so I have a little help but for the most mart i'm making my own man. Anyways how does 8.5:1 comp sound for an FI setup? sounds good to me! I'll sell this 2v long block and look for one of these $300 teksids. I don't really want to pull one from a yard because we have a foot and half of snow on top of an inch of ice, but if it's my only option I'll man the **** up. I'm gonna keep this iron block regardless of how much you guys hate it haha.

P.S. I wouldn't mind putting it in an old Buick, I used to have a LeSabre and before that a Regal GS.
 
Hate Regal GSs, throw an underdrive pulley on their charger and it'll walk a MarkViii--- until 139mph... Ask me how I know :)
 
I had an older GS, a 91, so no blower =[ I just stripped it out for light weight and did the typical stupid high school kid stuff to it until the tranny gave then scrapped it. My LeSabre was a 2000 and was N/A but has the same motor as the newer GS's I lightly modded it and trolled all the 80's camaros/firebirds and rice rockets until some kid in his dad's powerstroke f-350 totaled it in a half empty parking lot. I miss both of those cars and was really happy with the power-train in those. I almost bought a Park Ave. before I found this Mark. I just wanted a V8 and rear drive.
 
Wawful said:
. I'm gonna keep this iron block regardless of how much you guys hate it haha
Click to expand...

I'm sure you'll figure something out ;)

31ee5b89b12a545aa100476d6ec56bb1.jpg
 
The pistons in my short block have no valve reliefs, I have pictures posted in my other thread. they are only slightly dished pistons he said they were just OE replacements from the vehicle it came out of. the paperwork says it's from a 2000 F-150, not a 2006 like I previously posted I'll check out the MMR site.
 
If they are dished you should be ok, I would still check the clearance.
That being said you really need to do the math. Stock on a 2000 f150 2v is just over 9:1 comp ratio with the 43cc heads and .188 dish in the piston (close enough for quick math) the 4v is 52cc. By my quick math you are going to drop 2:1 on the comp ratio and end up around 7.4 or so. Unless you are going turbo or SC you will have no power. You mentioned snow on the ground, with that low of a CR and the cold you can forget about that thing starting out if it's super cold.
Find another solution, you will be disappointed in this one.
 
take the 2v block and use it as a boat anchor, way more of a hassle trying to match the 4v heads to the 2v motor man. i fail to see any power or improvement coming from the 2v over a STOCK mark viii 4v
 
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