Weird problem with traction control

Shibs

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We all know the traction control either applies brakes or bogs down the engine to try to stop the wheels from spinning. Well with my Mark it doesn't apply the brakes in the rear. It applies them in the front causing just more wheel spin. The ABS light doesn't come on and the traction control button works to turn it on/off. I have no problem driving with it off. Its just annoying having it on then having your front brakes come on when you let loose a little on wet pavement. As far a ice/snow goes... if I'm stuck at a light its impossible for me to go anywhere w/ traction control on.
 
You must have a Gen II? Mine seems to only pump the rear brakes, but I have a Gen I were is also does not affect timing.
 
Ok, well its does not retard the timing then. But I though only the rear brakes were pumped anyway. When braking for sliding and such all four are used, but not for traction control.

Anyone know for sure?

And on a Gen I the ABS light should not come on either. What can happen is of you over-heat the traction control then the off switch stays light up and I think the ABS light may come on.
 
^ exactly how my 93 is. It's been like that since I bought it, what exactly would have happened to make my traction light stay off and the abs light to stay on?
 
Could be a faulty light in the switch. I know that has happened to a few including me. Usually if the ABS light is on so its the "Traction Off" on the switch.
 
On my way to work this morning the ABS light is on and the Traction control switch is showing "OFF" This happen to anyone else? And what was the fix?
 
On my way to work this morning the ABS light is on and the Traction control switch is showing "OFF" This happen to anyone else? And what was the fix?

Could be an ABS relay, wheel sensor, etc. Something has disabled the ABS and thus the traction control. Check fuses first.
 
old thread revive, same problem
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On my way to work this morning the ABS light is on and the Traction control switch is showing "OFF" This happen to anyone else? And what was the fix?
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yep, happened to me yesterday, after driving about 60 highway miles, 30 miles down a twisty mountain road with frequent hard braking, ABS light came up, trac control is OFF
I cleaned all 4 sensors today- the LH rear had a big chunk of dried red Georgia clay stuck on it. No change after cleaning: ABS light is still on, trac control button is lit up OFF.
What's the easiest, least expensive way to get ABS codes read? local parts store?
possible causes? bad relay? sensor? wheel bearing?
96 base
 
Don't know if it changed in OBD2, but with OBD 1 you can pull ABS codes just like EEC-IV codes. Jump the two wires in the ABS code harness located by the passenger headlight and count the light blinks.
 
I have a good ohmeter; anybody know where/how to measure resistance on each of the 4 sensors? I've read that normal tolerance is 800-1400 ohms
 
tried the paper clip jump between trigger and ground, key to RUN, the ABS light stayed lit, never flashed, waited over 60 seconds...wonder what that means......:confused:
 
tried the paper clip jump between trigger and ground, key to RUN, the ABS light stayed lit, never flashed, waited over 60 seconds...wonder what that means......:confused:

I think there are three wires in the ABS harness, did you try all possible combinations of jumping? And did you check to make sure the wires are still making contact with the plastic harness? Mine rotted out and I had to jump the wires directly.
 
yea, 3 wires... Ground (Bk) Lamp (Dk Green) and Trigger (W/Lt Bl)....the paper clip was a poor choice- i stripped back a section of coax and used it, that worked...i scanned it 3x, each looked like this video....DTC #26?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2uyL58U8AJM&feature=youtu.be
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ABS DTC 26.jpg
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ABS DTC 26 T_S.jpg
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what's the fix??? r/r pump?

ABS DTC 26.jpg


ABS DTC 26 T_S.jpg
 
I'm trying to measure resistance for DTC 26. On the module harness between pins 3 and 55. And on the valve block harness between 2 and 1. I'm coming up with infinite resistance on those and on other circuits that I check. It doesn't add up. The readings are off even for the circuits that are not pulling a code
Am I supposed to have the battery connected and the key turn to RUN when I check resistance?
 
okay, a little more studying the service manual, but no real answers yet:
for the valve block , my resistance between 'HOT in RUN' and RH Rear Inlet Valve is about 7.2ohms, within the acceptable range...however, I'm still getting infinite resistance when measuring the 55 pin module harness, even if I measure between two pins that don't produce a DTC. All this is done with the battery out of the car. I'm using a simple Greenlee volt/ohmeter. Any suggestions on what may be wrong with how I'm testing the circuit(s) to the module harness?
 
the service manual indicates a specific tool to measure resistance across the module harness, maybe a simple ohm meter won't work for some reason
55 pin connect ABS module.jpg
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ABS complete schem.jpg
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ABS gen schem.jpg

55 pin connect ABS module.jpg


ABS complete schem.jpg


ABS gen schem.jpg
 
yep. the breakout box pinouts and the wiring pinouts are not the same.
like pin 55 on the harness may be pin 40 in the breakout box.
 
the wire colors confirm that the diagram above matches my harness re; location and pin #.....dunno why I'm not getting a readin on circuits that should be normal re; ohms
 
went back and retested today. the readings are in line with what's expected: the resistance is normal on circuits not producing a DTC, and it's infinite on circuit455,(pin 55 GY/R rh rear inlet valve and pin 3 O/Y switched power)...now it says to SERVICE circuit 455, what's that entail? does the GY/R wire go from the module harness directly to the PCM?

DTC 26.jpg
 
more testing and head scratching, REALLY could use help from someone with valuable experience on ABS
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for DTC 26-2 does it mean measure the 16 pin connector on the module side with the color coded wires? or the valve block side with the blue wires? Because on the valve block side there is no wire going to pin 1...but how could the module side of the harness read ohms for the valve block? The diagram of the 16 pin connector I posted matches the module side of the harness.
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Btw, my initial mistake measuring the 55 pin connector was that I had the 16 pin harness disconnected. To measure the 55 pin connector accurately the 16 pin harness has to be connected...duh
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just got back from more electrical t/s-ing; what I know at this point is:
the module side of the 16 pin connector has 12 color coded wires going to female connectors, it uses positions 1,2,3,5,6,7, 9,10,13,14,15,16...pins 1 and 16 are O/Y (HOT in RUN)....pin 2 is GY/R rear inlet valve;
if I measure resistance (with 55 pin module harness connected at module) between pins 1 or 16 and pin 2 or any of the other 7 inlet/outlet valve pins resistance is infinite;
I have continuity between both ends of the GY/R pins as wells both ends of the O/Y wires (there are two O/Y at both 16 pin and 55 pin connectors)
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for the valve block side of the 16 pin connector, these are male pins, all wires are blue going to the valve block, it uses pins 2,3,4,6,7,8,11,12,13,14,15,16..it's still 12 pins total but it's missing #s 5,8,9,10 from the female part of the connector...
if I measure resistance between pins 2 (GY/R) and 16 (O/Y) resistance is within normal limits...which is, I guess good for the rt rear inlet valve???
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so, DTC26-2 (pictured above) says to check resistance between pins 1 and 2 from the 16 pin connector (which side??), if it's beyond normal range to replace the valve block....how can the module/female side of the 16 pin connector diagnose the valve block???
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thus far I haven't cut back any wire insulation or spliced in wires for testing...is it possible I have a faulty 16 pin female connector? this is a southern car and there is very little corrosion anywhere on the car
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ABS 16 pin valve block.jpg
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55 pin connect ABS module.jpg
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the diagram of the 16 pin connector matches the module side of that union, not the valve block side

ABS 16 pin valve block.jpg


55 pin connect ABS module.jpg
 

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