Wheel alignment specs

As far as recommended specs go, this is what I would suggest:

Front:
Camber: Negative 0.8-1.3 You can go further, but you'll start wearing the insides of the tires. I typically prefer mine at ~ -0.8-1.0.
Caster: Positive 5.0-6.0
Toe: Positive .05-.15 On a autocross car, you can go slightly negative, but you'll give up stability at speed. I keep mine at ~ +0.1.
Cross Camber: As close to zero as possible.
Cross Caster: 0 to -0.3 Going negative helps on crowned roads, but will cause a slight drift to the left otherwise.
Total Toe: Positive 0.1-0.3 Once again, this is for a car you'll be driving on the street. If it's an autocross car, a little negative toe will help on turn in.

Rear:
Camber: Negative 0.5-1.0 Same as the front, you can go further, but you'll start wearing the insides of the tires. Also keep in mind that as the rear squats, the camber will tend to go further negative. I like mine set at ~ -0.5.
Toe: Zero to +0.15 I'd lean toward +0.1 on both sides with Delrin LCA bushings and toward zero with the stock LCA bushings, as they'll allow an increase in toe when under power.
Cross Camber: Same as front. Keep it close to zero.
Total Toe: 0-0.3


These settings have worked well for me as an all-purpose alignment (drag racing, corner carving, and highway cruising) on this chassis without any real adverse effects on tire wear. If the intended use was autocross-type events only, drag racing only, etc., I'd set things a bit differently. These are just my recommendations.
 
Thanks RaceCougar!

In the article I found they didn't mention Cross Caster/Camber. Great to note this!

I found this description with a quick search:
Cross camber is the difference in camber from one side to the other, if each wheel is itself correctly in tolerance, but at opposite ends of the scale, then the cross camber will be high and might need attention. Some manufactures now specify this value.
 
As far as recommended specs go, this is what I would suggest:

Front:
Camber: Negative 0.8-1.3 You can go further, but you'll start wearing the insides of the tires. I typically prefer mine at ~ -0.8-1.0.
Caster: Positive 5.0-6.0
Toe: Positive .05-.15 On a autocross car, you can go slightly negative, but you'll give up stability at speed. I keep mine at ~ +0.1.
Cross Camber: As close to zero as possible.
Cross Caster: 0 to -0.3 Going negative helps on crowned roads, but will cause a slight drift to the left otherwise.
Total Toe: Positive 0.1-0.3 Once again, this is for a car you'll be driving on the street. If it's an autocross car, a little negative toe will help on turn in.

Rear:
Camber: Negative 0.5-1.0 Same as the front, you can go further, but you'll start wearing the insides of the tires. Also keep in mind that as the rear squats, the camber will tend to go further negative. I like mine set at ~ -0.5.
Toe: Zero to +0.15 I'd lean toward +0.1 on both sides with Delrin LCA bushings and toward zero with the stock LCA bushings, as they'll allow an increase in toe when under power.
Cross Camber: Same as front. Keep it close to zero.
Total Toe: 0-0.3


These settings have worked well for me as an all-purpose alignment (drag racing, corner carving, and highway cruising) on this chassis without any real adverse effects on tire wear. If the intended use was autocross-type events only, drag racing only, etc., I'd set things a bit differently. These are just my recommendations.

That's awesome, thank you.

I'm going to print this and have them align to these specs. My alignments from then have been so-so lately but I have a lifetime alignment so bringing in my own specs is probably my best bet for greater satisfaction.
 
Just scheduled an appointment. Just want to make sure I got these correct so I don't give them bad numbers and they laugh at me :p

Front:
Camber: -0.8
Caster: Positive 5.0 to 6.0
Toe: +0.1
Cross Camber: As close to zero as possible.
Cross Caster: 0 to -0.3
Total Toe: +0.1 to +0.3

Rear:
Camber: -0.5
Toe: Zero
Cross Camber: As close to zero as possible.
Total Toe: 0 to +0.3
 
No problem, guys. Those specs look good jbelcourt.

Guy was impressed with those specs. He said "where'd you get those, a dealer?" I said, no, someone who really knows these cars well lol.

I've seen you posts in the past on .org I believe when I first got my Mark.
 
He said that was the best he could do because the springs are really worn. Does that still look good though?

IMAG1088.jpg

IMAG1088.jpg
 
It should drive nicely with that alignment. There may be a slight drift to the right due to the positive cross-caster, but the touch of extra neg camber on the passenger side might be enough to offset it. The tech did a good job setting up your car. :)
 
haha, yup, has a very slight drift to the right but it feels good overall!
 
He said that was the best he could do because the springs are really worn. Does that still look good though?

View attachment 828474795

Hey Jbelcourt, when I had mine done, my left Caster was in the red as well. The shop guys lied to me trying to tell me there wasn't an adjustment for the Caster on some cars. This after he told me it was due to me damaging the Camber bolt when I tried to remove it with the bolt end, instead of the nut. It was my first time replacing the LCA arms.
If you loosen the Camber bolt by the bolt end, instead of the nut, it can break the end of the "horse shoe" that is welded to the frame, that the Camber bolt sits in.

They welded it back to the frame and said I would need a new Camber bolt to get that side back into specs. Then their boss cam out and I said I would get a new bolt and come back and he wanted to try to get it done then. That's when the his guys started lying about it. They also quoted me on an all wheel alignment but only did the front. Sometimes I guess it's better to go to the dealer for things like this.

I have two places I can get the bolt. Just have to wait till after the holidays as the recyclers are closed till the new year.
Did I mention the mechanics also raised the vehicle, then loosened both Camber bolts and then tightened them with the car off the ground? This after I raised the car on patio stones and rams, so it would be at ride height before torquing the bolts on the new LCA's? Yep, not too happy with that shop and won't ever go back.....

20150922_185840.jpg

20150922_185840.jpg
 
Thanks Racecougar, I took a closer look and compared your specs, to what I found on another site and they are very close.

Front Camber -1.3* Range min -1.3............+0.3 max
Front Caster +5.5* Range min +4.8............+6.3 max
Front Toe -0.03* Range min -0.03........+0.10 max
Rear Camber -1.0* Range min -1.0.........+0.0 max
Rear Toe -0.03* Range min -0.03......+0.19 max
*Preferred settings for aggressive handling
 

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