1989 Mark 7
LVC Member
I have a question. My window on the driver side has been acting weird. It'll roll down, but when it goes up, it'll jerk all the way, and at times, I have to help it up. What is the problem?
Window
- Thread starter 1989 Mark 7
- Start date
1986_MarkVII
Active LVC Member
Window malfunction
Are your dew drip seals on the door in tact?
These are the seals that the glass passes through. The function it to prevent moisture from entering inside the door.
When the seals deteriorate, the car no longer has an unprenatratable door. This is a quick death for any auto, whether the windows are manual or electric.
Moisture inside the door can cause a multitute of problems, among them being the mechanism that operates the tray the window sits it. Visualize a scissor opening and closing with the center pivot point. That is similar to what is inside your door.
If that central joint is rusted, or just worn out, it will begin malfunctioning. Your door motor will burn out eventually trying to force the window up. The jerking motion sounds like that is what is happening.
Try some lubicant (not WD40 because it just disperses water. Use dry lubicant, which you can find at Auto Zone or hardware stores. Take the door panel off and assess the situation and lubicate all moving parts.
If you want a quick and temporary fix, use the liquid libriquent and the tiny extended attachment nozel that comes with the spray. With the winow in up position, stick the nozel down the door and spray around.
But taking the door panel off is the best because you need to ascertain what is going wrong and what parts you will need.
When things on a car begin malfunctioning it's because something is wrong internally. Don't force it and try not to use if posible because to continue doing so typically causes bigger and more costly problems.
R
1989 Mark 7 said:
Are your dew drip seals on the door in tact?
These are the seals that the glass passes through. The function it to prevent moisture from entering inside the door.
When the seals deteriorate, the car no longer has an unprenatratable door. This is a quick death for any auto, whether the windows are manual or electric.
Moisture inside the door can cause a multitute of problems, among them being the mechanism that operates the tray the window sits it. Visualize a scissor opening and closing with the center pivot point. That is similar to what is inside your door.
If that central joint is rusted, or just worn out, it will begin malfunctioning. Your door motor will burn out eventually trying to force the window up. The jerking motion sounds like that is what is happening.
Try some lubicant (not WD40 because it just disperses water. Use dry lubicant, which you can find at Auto Zone or hardware stores. Take the door panel off and assess the situation and lubicate all moving parts.
If you want a quick and temporary fix, use the liquid libriquent and the tiny extended attachment nozel that comes with the spray. With the winow in up position, stick the nozel down the door and spray around.
But taking the door panel off is the best because you need to ascertain what is going wrong and what parts you will need.
When things on a car begin malfunctioning it's because something is wrong internally. Don't force it and try not to use if posible because to continue doing so typically causes bigger and more costly problems.
R
Last edited:
One_Way
Well-Known LVC Member
The slides may need lubrication. They look like poles inside the door.
JoshMcMadMac
Dedicated LVC Member
Sounds like your motor is dying. It's not too difficult to replace, and not too expensive. It just takes a little bit of contortionism to avoid pulling the whole assembly. Be sure to hit all of the moving parts with a healthy helping of white lithium grease. Use the grease, not the spray can stuff.
Yeah, what they said...
OR... well, can you hear the motor constantly working as it jerks? Or does the window motor power seem blink off and on with the jerking?
If the motor keeps on while the window jerks, then I'd say you need only replace the 3 plastic roller bushings between the motor and the window gear. Now available at the "Help" section of most auto stores. Other wise... motors are fairly cheap, now, too.
Please, let us know what it was.
Cheers!
OR... well, can you hear the motor constantly working as it jerks? Or does the window motor power seem blink off and on with the jerking?
If the motor keeps on while the window jerks, then I'd say you need only replace the 3 plastic roller bushings between the motor and the window gear. Now available at the "Help" section of most auto stores. Other wise... motors are fairly cheap, now, too.
Please, let us know what it was.
Cheers!
MARKED MAN
Active LVC Member
Awesund said:
I am not the gentleman that started the thread but i have the exact same problem. my window goes down pretty good (pausing a couple of times on the way down) but going up is impossible without helping it up. the motor runs consistantly but the glass itself doesnt move, except for a few jerks. i originally thought that it was off track but also my rubber seals that keep out moisture are badly deteriorated so i'm sure that is a problem. my passenger side is the window in question and my driver side the motor is dead. i was planning on replacing it but now i cannot without first replacing the window seal first, glad i heard about that. does anyone know where to get the replacement rubber seals and how to install
katz_blk90se
Active LVC Member
MARKED MAN said:
The gears inside the motor may be wearing out. The window goes down easily because gravity is helping the gears out. It is struggling going up because gravity is now fighting the gears effort to get the windown up. May or may not be the problem, but that is what happened in my case.
Scott Adams
LVC Member
Since I've seen my dew seals get hard and brittle I can sympathize with this thread. Of course Ford no longer has the replacements and before I have problems like 1989 Mark 7, I want to replace the seals. I've somebody rebuilds those assemblies (it's not just a simple rubber replacement I've heard). Anybody know who that is? I might try the "Ford vs Chevy" site for this too.
I can't help but laugh about the Mark VII external dew wipes. It's as if they selected the cheapest type of rubber for these cars. Walk through any junkyard and see Mustangs, T-birds, Cougars, of any year with outer window rubber that's still in great shape... walk up to any year Mark VII and find cracked concrete like a fossil reminder of what the rubber may have been.
There's a guy, here, in Central Florida who can re-do these for you. His name is Mike. He does a great job! I've seen it myself and was very impressed. (I don't impress easily) I'm having him do mine before my final paint.
http://www.lincolnmarkvii.com
Hope this helps some of you. It's quite a strange factory "defect".
There's a guy, here, in Central Florida who can re-do these for you. His name is Mike. He does a great job! I've seen it myself and was very impressed. (I don't impress easily) I'm having him do mine before my final paint.
http://www.lincolnmarkvii.com
Hope this helps some of you. It's quite a strange factory "defect".
Lincolnlov
Well-Known LVC Member
1989 Mark 7 said:
Its the plastic parts in the window motor housing. They prevent damage when the window goes all the way up or down and you don't get off the switch quick enough. They don't last as long as the motor itself. They can be replaced but you have to take the motor out to do them. For about $50 you can get a rebuilt motor with all the plastic parts already replaced. Then you just have to replace the whole unit. There is a thread on this either on this site or on the Lincolnsonline site that shows how to do the replacement, with pictures.
Lincolnlov
Frat-man-du
Dedicated LVC Member
I have had a dozen or so FOMOCO autos over the past couple decades and the window gear is a weak link. The 3 nylon- plastic inserts are almost always the cause and can be purchased cheap, even on eBay for under $20 (sometimes under $10)delivered.
A better fix-
I cant comment on the VII directly but my all steel gear (still has the nylon base but no nylon-plastic inserts) from my '65 Tbirds fit my 85 Tbird with no problem, after over a decade of use the gear problem never emerged again. These use a spring loaded metal clutch - much better then the nylon, plastic junk (used since the 80's). You can get these from the better high end T-bird part vendors for $30 - make sure you ask for the metal, not the plastic ones. The gear was not quite the same as my 90 TC so I had to tack the longer gear from the 90 to the steel gear from the 65 - no problems there either.
Hope this helps.
Frat-man-du
Current Stable:
98 LSC
00 Stang Vert
94 E-150 Conversion
65 Tbird Vert
65 Tbird Coupe
64 Austin Healy
Gone but not forgotten:
90 TC
95 Mark VIII
92 Merc Grand Marque - Police Package...sigh
85 Tbird Fila edition
A better fix-
I cant comment on the VII directly but my all steel gear (still has the nylon base but no nylon-plastic inserts) from my '65 Tbirds fit my 85 Tbird with no problem, after over a decade of use the gear problem never emerged again. These use a spring loaded metal clutch - much better then the nylon, plastic junk (used since the 80's). You can get these from the better high end T-bird part vendors for $30 - make sure you ask for the metal, not the plastic ones. The gear was not quite the same as my 90 TC so I had to tack the longer gear from the 90 to the steel gear from the 65 - no problems there either.
Hope this helps.
Frat-man-du
Current Stable:
98 LSC
00 Stang Vert
94 E-150 Conversion
65 Tbird Vert
65 Tbird Coupe
64 Austin Healy
Gone but not forgotten:
90 TC
95 Mark VIII
92 Merc Grand Marque - Police Package...sigh
85 Tbird Fila edition
to replace the plastic bushing take the motor out remover cover remove gears anrd clean out all the broken pieces of plastic and old grease reinstall the large plastic gear with some grease in the corners where the bushings sit the bushings have a taper this side faces out on the motor put the bushings in the grease at an angle and the take the metal gear and start sliding it in to place this is kinda tricky but if all goes well the bushings will pop in once they are going the right way take the motor somewhere there is a solid object with a hole in it u can use this to press the gear all the way back down since the grease doesnt compress this will make it easier the bushing are designed to shear off in case someone puts there arm in the window it wont break it they just deteriorate with age