Worried about removing original spark plugs

[KC96LSC]

Hey all, I've been doing some searching but not really getting the answer I was looking for. I just got a new 95 Mark VIII with only 70,000 on it, I'm 99.9% sure they are the original plugs. My question is what can I do before attempting to remove them? Should I spray some WD-40 down each one or is there something else I should do? I would really appreciate any advice on this matter.

 

[chris2523]

do it with a cold engine and take your time.

 

[KC96LSC]

Thanks Chris, I'm just so freak'in worried that there is corrosion going on and want to cover as many bases as possible before going after them.

 

[mikemark8]

do it with a cold engine and take your time.

ditto, and maybe before you start, spray a little deep creep or pb blaster and let it soak, but cold engine is best, go slow

 

[unity]

The originals are plated well and should not be a problem to remove. Honestly, if you are worried you can just leave em in. Technically they are good to 100k. When you pull them, you will notice one side is marked blue and the other yellow. They are different plugs.

 

[soduka]

Nothing's going to happen. It's not like we have the 5.4 Triton engines, lol.

 

[KC96LSC]

Thanks to you guys that took a minute to offer your advice. I feel a lot better about going after them, I'm still going to put a little PB on them just in case.

Greg

 

[mikemark8]

Nothing's going to happen. It's not like we have the 5.4 Triton engines, lol.

omg. you just gave me a flashback. have a friend who pays me to take care of his many vehicles including 2-6.0 diesels and a 94 302 in a f250, but he has a 06 150 with a 5.4, and it took me 7 hours to do his plugs, what a JOKE-nothing is that bad, anywhere IMO...I lost years on my life that day doing that lol.

That puts things in perspective...

 

[soduka]

I have walked away from buying vehicles because I found out it had the 5.4 Triton. Screw that engine.

 

[ONLYTONY]

Put a little never sieze on the new plugs

 

[BILLBOATS]

Take a can of PB blaster to spray down each of the 8 holes and let it sit over night. The plugs will come out easily . I did it a years ago and had no difficulty to remove them. I am looking to buy a door lock off a mark . Dosent have to even have a key as I will re-key it. Not sure how to write an add so advise is appreciated

 

[unity]

Put a little never sieze on the new plugs

Never on an aluminum head. This was acceptable on old iron blocks, but not today. The platings on plugs made today are designed for aluminum heads and to prevent binding. Using anti-seize on aluminum is a bad idea. For one thing it can increase the heat of the plug since it acts like an insulator. Its also acts as a lubricant upon install and this changes the torque spec. After a couple changes one may start to notice thread damage in the head or worse, have a plug blow out. In fact it seems a good deal of plug blow outs are causes by people using anti-seize. Also the anti-seize can act like a ground neutralizer if its not properly conductive.

In the old days when car were not as sensitive to spark specs it was not a big deal. And those iron threads can take the abuse of a little over torquing.

 

[mikemark8]

You are not going to have any problems using anti-sieze on an aluminum head if you don't go crazy with it-of course, don't over-torque, and go lightly with the application, just google 'using anti-sieze on aluminum heads'. most anecdotal accounts of people using anti-sieze are positive, and I have used it on numerous engines since the inception of aluminum heads, never had any issues with 'misfires', or subsequent removal of plugs. This is from thirty plus years of experience, but do what you want, Motorcraft platinum will last another 100,000 miles so I'd really not worry once you got the originals out.

And KC don't forget to get back to us to say how it went-we've all been there before, I still remember the first time I removed the #8 in my old 93 and thought it was fu'bared from the sound and feel, only to go back in nice and smooth after i PB'ed the hole-it WAS a sick feeling.

 

[KC96LSC]

Thanks again for all the suggestions and advice. As for the plugs, I've always used the coppers and always had good luck with them over the years. I will share the outcome.

 

[Scallywag]

Nothing's going to happen. It's not like we have the 5.4 Triton engines, lol.

lol Well that comment certainly sparked my interest which resulted in 2-3 hours of reading about how much of a pain the engine was all around but especially more so when it came to removing the plugs. To top it off, I read ablout how Ford refused to ante up the $$ it would cost their custies to fix their error. Talk about an expensive tune-up. OUCH!!



Before you actually remove the plugs I suggest sticking the spark plug fitting in and taking it out to see if you pull out any oil that might be sitting in the spark plug well. The tube seals might be ruptured and allowing oil to seep into the wells. If that's the case, then you might as well replace the valve cover gaskets while you're at it.

 

[Lownslowlsc]

Thanks again for all the suggestions and advice. As for the plugs, I've always used the coppers and always had good luck with them over the years. I will share the outcome.

If you're worried about pulling the plugs, you'll be going through the same thing in 20k if you use coppers. I always suggest single or double platinum unless you enjoy doing them every couple years. I guess coppers might be worth it if you don't drive much.

I did mine on a cold motor, no anti-seize and was gentle. If I could go back in time I'd probably blow out the holes, spray a little pb in each one and let it sit overnite. The noises they made when removing them the first time made me cringe.

 

[Bangster]

I second the don't use copper core plugs if your worried about removing them. I used copper plugs in my daily driver, and doing plug changes yearly, while extremely easy, adds to the drama with the limited number of threads. Even with 10+ plug changes in 2V and 1 in 4V I haven't had any issues.

Granted they won't be in there very long and likely not get corroded if you swap them out that often, but I quickly learned to go with either the thin tip platinum or iridium plugs.

If you get plugs that have the shiny nickel plated threads, then no need for anti-seize. For your 95 you want double-platinums anyways, and Motorcraft and Autolite double-platinum have nickel plated threads instead of black oxide, which means they won't rust (as easily) and nickel is an anti-seize (good high temp anti-seize for plugs has nickel in it).

 

[KC96LSC]

If you're worried about pulling the plugs, you'll be going through the same thing in 20k if you use coppers. I always suggest single or double platinum unless you enjoy doing them every couple years. I guess coppers might be worth it if you don't drive much.

I did mine on a cold motor, no anti-seize and was gentle. If I could go back in time I'd probably blow out the holes, spray a little pb in each one and let it sit overnite. The noises they made when removing them the first time made me cringe.

I don't have any issues with changing plugs, it's just that this particular set have been in there for 20 years and I wanted to cover all my bases before going after them. I always do it with a cold engine. I've been changed my 96' plugs many times over the years. I have a feeling I'll be cringing a bit myself

 

[KC96LSC]

Great point Scallywag, thank you.

 

[KC96LSC]

Bangster,

Yeah, I see your train of thought. I have been using the coppers for years and changed them out every year but I do see the advantage your talking about. It's not like the 95 has any modifications, she's bone stock.