Wtb-pass. Front door latch/actuator
- Thread starter NickT88LSC
- Start date
racebronco2
Well-Known LVC Member
NickT88LSC
Dedicated LVC Member
Sorry, been on here so long the bad post are rubbing off on me.
2002 LS, passenger front door latch/actuator assembly needed
2002 LS, passenger front door latch/actuator assembly needed
I have one pm me
racebronco2
Well-Known LVC Member
Mine is broken
WaterfalLS
LVC Member
i'm going to begin tearing them out from my brothers work as the gen2's come in and stockpile them. I'll need to get the correct removal procedure from Mitchell and find the time to do it, but I can definitely track down a few over the next couple of weeks. probably just want $50 + shipping, first come first serve
Hey Waterfall, do you respect dibs?? If so, can I get dibs on the front passenger latch? Actually I'd probably take both front latches, just in case the driver side breaks sometime in the future, that would suck...
The removal isn't too bad, it probably took me 45 minutes and I had only a minimal clue as to what I was doing Carefully removing the inside of the door panel was the hardest part, not knowing which parts were attached and which weren't. I'll document what I did here in case someone finds it on google and wants to know what to expect...
The wood/plastic trip panels on the door do not need to be removed, nor the surround for the lock/handle. 2 screws under a black plastic cover right below the grab you'd use to close the door from the inside, 3 screws at the bottom, and one screw on the edge. The rest were the white panel "friction clips"... I'd guess they have a real name but I don't know what it is...
Removing the exterior door handle was just a matter of un-snapping the yellow tab that locks that holder in place.
After that, I unbolted the latch from the door and removed the electrical connection and inside door pull.
The electrical connector was a bit tricky because you can't see it well, but there was a red slide that locks the "push-to-remove" tab in place. Slide that, push the tab underneath, and it should come right out.
Removing the inside door pull cable was easy once the latch is unbolted from the door. Just turn it inward a little and the cable should come out of the hole.
Actually I'd probably take both front latches, just in case the driver side breaks sometime in the future, that would suck...The removal isn't too bad, it probably took me 45 minutes and I had only a minimal clue as to what I was doing
Carefully removing the inside of the door panel was the hardest part, not knowing which parts were attached and which weren't. I'll document what I did here in case someone finds it on google and wants to know what to expect...The wood/plastic trip panels on the door do not need to be removed, nor the surround for the lock/handle. 2 screws under a black plastic cover right below the grab you'd use to close the door from the inside, 3 screws at the bottom, and one screw on the edge. The rest were the white panel "friction clips"... I'd guess they have a real name but I don't know what it is...
Removing the exterior door handle was just a matter of un-snapping the yellow tab that locks that holder in place.
After that, I unbolted the latch from the door and removed the electrical connection and inside door pull.
The electrical connector was a bit tricky because you can't see it well, but there was a red slide that locks the "push-to-remove" tab in place. Slide that, push the tab underneath, and it should come right out.
Removing the inside door pull cable was easy once the latch is unbolted from the door. Just turn it inward a little and the cable should come out of the hole.