Rocker panels

O

Outlaw94

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Does anyone make rocker panels for these cars? or do I have to find a rust free donor?.I'm starting to get holes on the driver side and the passenger side is starting to bad in the back.And below the gas filler it's starting to bubble otherwise the car solid and I rather fix it then let it rot away.You don't see these cars around here and I see people checking it out as I drive by and it's just stock.Wish I had the money for 18's and a built tt engine to beat up all the lame pushrod Chevy guy's that think bigger is better.
 
There is a company who makes rocker panels for mn12s and fn10s..not sure of the name though..if you search tccoa there's a guy who did some body work on his Thunderbird and put in new replacement rockers. And sorry to burst your bubble but as far as engines go, bigger is always beter...theres no replacement for displacement. Why do you think people build larger bore and longer stroke motors? Anything that can be done to a 281in. motor can also be done to a 350..and so on and so forth..and the bigger engine will come out on top 99% of the time.
 
i mean, true on the displacement thing, but an intercooled vortech on a forged 4.6 will get you just a ton of power. like, more than is streetable.
 
You can buy a "little" 281 Teksid long block for cheap and with the right internals is easily good for 1000hp with stock heads.And your gonna have to spend a lot more to get a 350 in the 1000hp level like aftermarket block and heads and the LS is gonna cost more too but is the better option for a Chevy.When it comes to power adders bigger isn't better and the little mod motors have proved that while the Chevy's keep getting bigger to keep up.And the smaller bore is better with power adders.Besides a DOHC looks more badass then any pushrod engine.
 
Outlaw94 said:
You can buy a "little" 281 Teksid long block for cheap and with the right internals is easily good for 1000hp with stock heads.And your gonna have to spend a lot more to get a 350 in the 1000hp level like aftermarket block and heads and the LS is gonna cost more too but is the better option for a Chevy.When it comes to power adders bigger isn't better and the little mod motors have proved that while the Chevy's keep getting bigger to keep up.And the smaller bore is better with power adders.Besides a DOHC looks more badass then any pushrod engine.
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How would you ever figure it to be "cheap" to build a 1000 horse 4.6? Ok sure the bare block may be relatively cheap, but everything else necessary to be able to handle that much power won't be cheap by any means..let alone the right heads, cams, intake and power adder to even get you to that power level. And don't know what world you live in but in this one it'll always be cheaper to build a big block Chevy to make 1000hp than a 4.6 Ford..not to mention the bigger motor will be more streetable with more torque at a lower rpm.
 
My rocker panels were pretty well rotted out, and my body guy cut out everything and tacked in some sheet metal, and covered it in bed liner turned out real nice.
 
keVIIIn said:
There is a company who makes rocker panels for mn12s and fn10s..not sure of the name though..if you search tccoa there's a guy who did some body work on his Thunderbird and put in new replacement rockers.
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These?

http://www.andysautosport.com/ford/1994_1997_thunderbird/exterior/rocker_panels/sherman/

sher_539-00l.jpg
 
I'd expect they are close enough anyway that they could be used as patch panels. (cut what you need)

Lincoln rockers tho are filled with foam which makes rewelding a pain.
 
rust

can't help you with the rocker panels but here's why they rust (pic). Crap and moisture get behind the inner fender right where it meets the rocker panel. A few years ago I filled the ft of the rockers with spray foam. I'm going to add a flap down low right over the liner, and maybe stop the crap from getting in there. My 95 is from CA and almost rust free, and I'm trying to keep it that way.

rker pnl rust.jpg
 
Yeah, I cut mine back a couple inches and I make sure to keep the leaves and junk cleaned out.
 
SATURN5 said:
I'd expect they are close enough anyway that they could be used as patch panels. (cut what you need)

Lincoln rockers tho are filled with foam which makes rewelding a pain.
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I was wondering if that was factory or someone did it to prevent rust.. that answers my question. I had stuck my finger up in my rocker panel and felt the foam and was quite confused. Interior will probably have to be yanked to replace the rockers properly, and refill with foam. Idk
 
OP, I have a pair of the Sherman rocker panels (linked to above) for sale if you're interested in them. Just send me an email at rodsv6cougar@cs.com with your zip code for a shipped price.
 
Jesse, it's for NVH. The foam dampens road noise. It also holds water since it is porous like a sponge.

Great idea and works fine so long as Ford needs to warranty it.... Not so great an idea 12-14-16 years after the fact...
 
ONLYTONY said:
can't help you with the rocker panels but here's why they rust (pic). Crap and moisture get behind the inner fender right where it meets the rocker panel. A few years ago I filled the ft of the rockers with spray foam. I'm going to add a flap down low right over the liner, and maybe stop the crap from getting in there. My 95 is from CA and almost rust free, and I'm trying to keep it that way.
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One of my future projects will be to make a plate to bolt over that area.. I hate leaves and stuff getting in there. Should make cleaning my door jams easier
 
SATURN5 said:
Jesse, it's for NVH. The foam dampens road noise. It also holds water since it is porous like a sponge.

Great idea and works fine so long as Ford needs to warranty it.... Not so great an idea 12-14-16 years after the fact...
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That's what I was thinking, since these cars were originally designed for old people. Lol!

I'm wondering if it would be a good idea to leave it out, or inject some new foam after rocker replacement. I'm thinking leaving it out would make the rockers last longer...
 
The problem with these rockers is the foam, the lack of proper coating, and the sunroof drains.

That sherman outer panel will work fine, BUT the real problem is behind it. The actual structural rocker sections were super expensive, and of course no longer around.

They rarely rust from the front. But to save your fender, just trim that insulation, and replace bottom spacer tabs with simple washers to allow water to drain out.

If you're seeing any kind of corrosion and rust on the outside, you can bet your rockers inside look like in the pictures below. Your best bet it to get a section of the rocker from a rust free donor car, cut and replace as needed.
This is one of the most complicated sheet metal areas on this car. Been there done that. Never want to do it again.

07_14 007.jpg


8_02 019.jpg


8_05 011.jpg


8_05 012.jpg


8_11 010.jpg


8_11 018.jpg


IMG-20100814-00006.jpg
 
Hey Gregg, how's that driver door?
I'm looking for one with NO dents in it.
 
The thunderbird/cougars have that sound deadener foam stuff packed in the rocker panels also..here's the link to the TCCOA picture gallery of the guy fixing his rockers..

http://forums.tccoa.com/vbpicgallery.php?do=big&p=2715

So from what I gather, it would be best to find a NON sunroof car..that drain is in the worst place possible! Where is the water supposed to go once it exits that rubber tube?? I know there are very SMALL holes in the bottom of the rocker panel if you look close, but they don't seem large enough to be able to drain that much moisture. I actually went ahead and sprayed the sh*t out of the inside of those rocker panels with white lithium grease using a small tip in the holes on the bottom of the rocker panels. There is also a larger hole toward the rear tire that seems to go through to the inside of the rockers which I used a generous amount of lithium grease in...did the same with the bottoms of the doors and inside the small drain holes..I HATE rust!
 
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