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Removing the lead was only so that the exhaust wouldn't poison emissions devices like catalytic converters. Nothing to do with carbon. P.S. ethanol is a scam

Going on two years and still holding. No more leaks.

The Frams are cheesy compared with the Fumotos, which are solidly built. I use them on all my vehicles and have never had a problem.

You can click the link in my sig to see how closely I track mpg. To 1nastyLS, how fast were you going over this 40+mpg trip, and what were the miles and gallons used? I must have missed that in the thread. If you're going by the trip computer reading, it can be garbage. Ya gotta fill up and do...

I think it's your starter. This was happening on a BMW of mine. I took the starter off and cleaned/lubed it because I figured it was not disengaging from the flywheel when I released the key. Never had a problem since.

Been using it for the last 13k miles in a 2005 V8. No problems. Oil analysis came back nice at my last change.

I had a BMW that did this like crazy and I thought it was the timing chain but that didn't help. Turned out to be the starter pinion not retracting after releasing the key. I took the starter off and cleaned and lubed it. Problem solved.

Those two hoses you circled are important. If you don't know what they're for then you shouldn't be thinking about removing them. Also see here before you go cutting off the resonators. http://www.lincolnvscadillac.com/showthread.php?t=56536

Akebono Euro ceramics on mine. Love them. No dust, no squeal, good bite.

Here's a thread I remember posting in: http://www.lincolnvscadillac.com/showthread.php?p=737973#post737973

I hit 468 once, on 17.4 gallons.

I once had a car with worn out ball joints that would howl going down the road, and the pitch would change when you went around a left hand curve or right. The camber of the tire was changing so much that it made the tread sound different on the pavement. Did you check ball joints when you did...

Mine gets pretty much put up for the winter. I only drive it on days with no precip and when the roads are completely dry. They put so much sand on the roads here during winter that driving on a highway is like getting your front end sandblasted, so I try to avoid that.

Just as an update. I put a can of that leak sealer from auto zone into the system. It had 1oz sealer, 1oz oil, and 1oz refrigerant. After a week or two using the AC regularly, the leak stopped. Low side pressure checked good and the air is nice and cold. Saved me a trip to the shop.

Looks like a defective pad and the friction material just fell right off!

Don't lower it. It looks perfect right now with the edge of the tire being perfectly concentric with the lip of the wheel well. If you want a ghetto sled I guess, go ahead.

Aha! I think you're right. I felt around as far as I could reach and it seems like it's coming from a diamond shaped cover plate on the back of the compressor. Bummer!

Bump... Any specific knowledge on whether we have fluid filled engine mounts or not? The service manual was not specific.

Well, brake fluid is really runny, and this stuff is thicker and has a much different color. Maybe strut oil?

In the past week I've noticed some drops on the garage floor under the engine, and I can't figure out what's leaking. I put some of it on a paper towel - that's the big yellowish blob at the top in the first pic. Below that I put a drop of coolant, brake fluid, and engine oil, from left to...