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Another piece to the puzzle is that when I am driving it around, there is a strong smell of fuel.. Not sure if the two are related.

MY CADDY SEEMS TO BE HAVING AN ISSUE WITH FUEL, AFTER ITS BEEN SITTING FOR A WHILE. if I USE A LITTLE SHOT OF STARTER FLUID IN THE CARB, IT'LL START, RUN FINE, AND I CAN EVEN START AND STOP ALL DAY. LEAVING IT PARKED AND OFF FOR HOURS AT A TIME. BUT IT WILL NEVER START IN THE MORNING...

Ok so you have any idea how much all those parts would cost? Just a rough idea. Also, is crossover assembly the name I should search for when buying parts? I've never heard of that.

Just to clarify you're suggesting that there is an air leak? Because the fluid level is good. Also, what things should k be looking for, to show a leak?

So another issue that must be related is the heat going in and out. This leads me to believe that the coolant system could have air pockets or be getting clogged. Sounds about right? Btw my dccv is new as of about 6 months ago, and only recently been losing the heat.

My car just over heated whole my wife was driving. She said she also got a light to change the AC filter. Could these issues be related? I'm hoping that changing the filter will fix this problem, but I'm at work and haven't been able to research this yet. Thanks!

what is the module? Could this problem be solved by getting a new battery? I've heard that when the battery starts going weird things can start happening. When I check and reconnect the sensors should I just replace them while I'm in there? Are they expensive?

So what I should do is turn one wheel out at a time to access the sensors, disconnect them, clean them, use di-electric grease on them, and put them back on? Sounds simple enough. Maybe if I'm lucky this could be a quick fix. Would this problem also explain the traction control light and parking...

I did the front brakes about a month ago, but this problem just arose. I actually have been checking the codes a lot over the past two weeks because of another problem and this is the first time I've seen these. The cold though... It's the coldest day of the year up here in NH. Single digits.

I haven't seen these codes before. On occasion I have seen the abs, traction control, and parking brakes come on. This has only happened a few times, but I'm willing to bet it's related. If anyone can help me please let me know. Thank you.

Yes, and until I check the codes in... How many miles does it take for the computer to read everything?

Alright so I stopped at autozone to clear the codes, hopefully for the last time, and P1504 had come back. That must be because i disconnected the IAC while the car was running to adjust the idle, right?

I did what you recommended, Joe. This brought down my idle to around 700rpms. I also checked the throttle cable and there was some slack. It seems that when I lowered the idle, it added removed some of the slack in the throttle. Now, after I step on the gas the idle gradually returns to the...

Yes, that isn't unlikely. could you tell me how and where to check this component? What could be causing the rpms to remain so high after I accelerate?

I'm wondering if it's likely that the person who owned this before me made some funky adjustment to the throttle to keep the car running without the IAC functioning. So now that it's working the idle is just way too high, but that doesn't explain why the idle seems to stick.

I had had the car in texas for months (where I didn't have to run the codes. Honestly didn't notice anything wrong. Well I ran the codes when i moved and I found out about these problems. I put on a new IAC and the codes never went away, but the car ran normally. Today I finally got the voltage...

I drive a 2001 Lincoln LS 3.9L V8. I was getting this code (p1506) along with another code (p1504). I have replaced my IAC, then I discovered I wasn't getting any voltage to the IAC. I've restored the power to the IAC and am now just receiving the one code for IAC overspeed. Is it possible that...

Do you have a recommended wire type for this?

In order to test this, before I emplace it, would it be ok to run the engine with the MAF disconnected? I just want to do it for a moment to see if the power will transfer sufficiently and the IAC works.

I have an idea. Instead of searching for the short, or the break in the wire, couldn't I splice I new wire to it, from the MAF? That's also running from the same fuse, and should have the same power. I'm tempted to do this, but I'm not sure of that would make the code go away. If this fixes the...