Search results for query: *

As others mentioned, air in the lines is probably the cause. On the DCCV I thought a had a bad unit when I put in a new one, turned out the wire right at the connector had split in half and I had to cut and solder in a new wire. Our vehicles are 20+ years old with a lot of hot cold cycles and...

I know you want to sell as an entire lot. I'm interested in all the cooling components except for the belt, t stat housing, and dccv (I did dccv last year, alum stat conversion years ago, and hydro fan / electric fan conversion so no pump and have a shorter belt) if that works.

Ultimately tried siphoning the gas through the Schrader valve on the fuel rail with a cheapy hand fluid pump from Harbor Freight - no luck there. Disassembled the fuel line leading to the rail, thinking the injectors might've been causing some air purging (same results with just a half gallon...

So they’re SOL?

So they’re SOL?

I remember seeing something posted about it years ago, but it was something insane with like 30 steps accelerating and stopping. Fwiw, I replaced mine (turned out my positive wiring was bad so ran a new wire) and did no “relearning”. Ran fine right away. Chances are you have another issue...

Apparently the pump was on the way out, or so I suspect. I replaced the pump back in 2013, I only drive 4k per year so a little surprised it went. Voltage to pump is good, though not sure if it receives power then grounds to run because I had voltage with the key cycled and not cycled. 0 psi at...

@Buckie. Thanks again for the assist. Interestingly, I saved mine from the junkyard back in 2009. Didn't have much money and my buddy convinced me since it had a clear title, it was a nice ride that I could put some money into over the year and fix on the cheap - found out way more about this...

Thanks! Nice to see a few of those 600 changes on those fancy Gen IIs included extra power steering line brackets and better rust protection.

Thanks. Not in a super huge rush. Won’t be back under the car until this evening. Parts look up hasn’t been helpful

Replacing my pump and pressure lines and, of course, I didn’t take any pictures and the manual isn’t very helpful. I can’t remember which pressure line goes where on the rack and pinion - there are two right by the steering column. One is the long pressure hose that comes from power steering...

The silence around here is deafening, however I dodged a bullet and everything is fine today Left the car overnight went to try it again today before calling a tow. Started right up. So word of the wise for anyone in the future - Do NOT top off your gas. Found topping off can mess up the...

Update, now I’m just getting cranks before it fires up (if it does) and dies immediately. I have and OBd fusion but I’m not getting any codes. Probably because it won’t start or runs extremely rough long enough to throw something.

Need help. My 02 3.9 I just got done filling up with gas and now it won’t start or runs extremely rough before dying. No known issues, drove to the gas station just fine. I got a long crank initially followed by a rough idle for 5 seconds and then it died. After a few minutes I got it to...

She’s up and running (at idle)! Maybe there is a problem spot in the power wire to the IAC on the Gen I. I ran a splice at the fuse and by the IAC connector. Car immediately did its initial rev for 20 seconds on start up and settled at ~700 RPM on its own. No more feathering the throttle at stop...

Thanks. You mentioned that wire powers other components? Wanted to make sure if I’m looking at a butt splice, or a Y splice by the fuse box. The box diagram says Fuse 10 for is for the IAC on 02s. Nothing else (i.e MAF) is listed for Fuse 10.

So I said I'd test voltage on both wires going to IAC a day after posting. Here we are 3 months later. I am now get 0 volts on either wire grounded or across both wires. I'll note I got some ghost reading of millivolts I think (my meter auto adjusts to millivolts if detected), not sure if...

Got both on hand already, thanks. Is there a recommended RPM or something for setting the throttle lever stop? As mentioned I tightened the bolt to keep the throttle open a little more so the car wouldn’t stall (I marked the original spot, only took 3/4 turn. Just curious, so I don’t set it...

Haha. Told you I’m not good at this. Thanks for helping me out. I’ll give it a go tomorrow. With the plug connected, would the easiest place to get measurements be on the back of the plug by pulling out the weather-proof grommets?

I was just thinking because battery voltage increase some with RPM increase. That makes sense now that you explained it. The measurements were taken at the plug (disconnected from IAC) Two IACs being faulty, I dunno.