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Bingo. The issue was a broken 4-3 prestroke valve spring in the valve body. It was broke in 4 places out of the 8 coils on it.. shattered. I'll have a spring tomorrow and I'll let you know if it fixes the problem. I'm keeping my fingers crossed.

How do I remove a valve to get to be valve spring? I'm trying to see if the 4-3 prestroke valve spring is broke but I can't get it to come out. However, what I do notice, is that this valve doesn't move much and seems stuck, unlike the rest.

Everything seems to be in spec... The only thing I've seen out of place so far is the little circle metal screen/filter inside the transmission pan, that's mounted with four bolts, has 4 tears in it on the outer parts. The two tears and across from each other and the other 2 years are across...

TCC sits at 9.9 on the solenoid body that was in my car, and TCC reads 10.4 on the one I pulled today.

At the 200 setting, all solenoids read 24-25

And a 0 continuity is good meaning total continuity?

Just so i know I'm doing something wrong when measuring ohms, which setting should I have it on? I have the multimeter set at 200k. My reading for solenoid C on the solenoid pack I picked up from the junkyard is 0.00.

I just got done taking the pan down and solenoid back out. I also picked up a solenoid from a u pull junk yard off an LS in very nice shape. Trans fluid looked brand new in it. I'm going to test the resistance now

Another question for you, I know in some cars the timing chain can cause quite a few issues. There is a rattling noise sounding exactly like the bad timing chain did on my Cadillac STS that I had. Could this be related at all?

Ok I got it back in there snug and took it for a test drive. Codes all went away. Same thing, solenoid c. The only difference is that it took quite a bit longer for the code to pop up. Instead of 5 minutes down the road, it lasted 20/25mimutes of driving through town until it popped up and I...

I'll go try and tighten it down more. I remember when I tightened it down I thought there was a little extra room to tighten but I didn't want to over do it. Thanks joegr

This is just my luck. Should I just drive it down the road and let it run a few cycles or something? I'm nervous to do that without some experienced advice, I don't want to blow the transmission up.

I went down through all the gears and it does shift, a bit rough but it shifts. I haven't taken it off of the jack stands yet just incase I need to get back under there

Ok I ended up putting in about 6 quarts and when checking the level about 3/4 of a quart drained out. Now I've got codes for all solenoids and the torque converter popping up? I reconnected everything exactly the way it was.

Anyone know the actual capacity. One guy told me 4 quarts but it's not full yet after I added the 4 quarts.. I thought that number seemed low

110,000. Well I may have caught a break. I took down the solenoid pack and there was a very hefty amount of sand and debris in the male connector on top. I'm filling it back up now

Quick update: I just finished pulling the pan and cleaning it out. There was about 1/4" of small metal shavings and sludge on the pan magnet, a thin layer over the entire pan and around the solenoid pack too. I've seen worse but it was pretty bad. Also, the transmission fluid was a consistent...

Ok thank you very much!

I tried looking for a pinout diagram for the pcm connector but I can't find anything... and the chart showing to check resistance from "term 3 to fuse 106" doesn't help because I have no idea where "term 3 " is. Any advice?

I finally got the transmission case connector unplugged(very tight fit). I have fuse out battery cable disconnected and I checked ohms on the 3 and 6 pin as well as the 3 and 5 pin. The only reading I get on all shift solenoid pins is "1". Any thoughts?