2001 Lincoln LS - No 5th Gear

I am using an "Innova", I forget the model but it is the top model.

I'm finally out testing resistance at he car now.
 
Yes battery disconnected. I test with one probe on each side of the fuse connection in the fuse box under the hood as shown in the diagram that the other guy posted in here.
 
Airman89 said:
Yes battery disconnected. I test with one probe on each side of the fuse connection in the fuse box under the hood as shown in the diagram that the other guy posted in here.
Click to expand...

With the fuse out? I didn't see anywhere where it said to measure from one terminal of the fuse holder to the other terminal for the same fuse. Do you really mean from one of the other terminals to the fuse location? If so, which one?
 
Yes with the fuse out. I don't understand the graph that he posted ( I don't know where all those testing points are), so I wanted to check the resistance at the fuse.

I've got the cabin filter and everything out under the hood. What points can I test in which connector, for solenoid c?
 
There is no point to reading the resistance across an empty fuse holder. You have to unplug the PCM main connector and carefully (pins are easy to damage) probe from there, on the correct pins.

This testing will tell you that either the wiring and the solenoid assembly are electrically okay - or - that the wiring and/or the solenoid assembly have a fault. You will still need to disconnect at the solenoid end to correctly determine which.
 
Ok will do. Which connector is the connector I need pull? I see 3 of them left to right. The middle one being the smallest.
 
I finally got the transmission case connector unplugged(very tight fit). I have fuse out battery cable disconnected and I checked ohms on the 3 and 6 pin as well as the 3 and 5 pin. The only reading I get on all shift solenoid pins is "1".

Any thoughts?
 
I tried looking for a pinout diagram for the pcm connector but I can't find anything... and the chart showing to check resistance from "term 3 to fuse 106" doesn't help because I have no idea where "term 3 " is. Any advice?
 
Quick update:

I just finished pulling the pan and cleaning it out. There was about 1/4" of small metal shavings and sludge on the pan magnet, a thin layer over the entire pan and around the solenoid pack too. I've seen worse but it was pretty bad. Also, the transmission fluid was a consistent brown, no longer red at all. I'm going to try testing the resistance directly on the pack.
 
I expect that you are past the point of it just being the solenoid assembly...
It's a good bet that the previous owners were driving it around with transmission problems and this may not be at all related to the wreck.
How many miles on it?
 
110,000. Well I may have caught a break. I took down the solenoid pack and there was a very hefty amount of sand and debris in the male connector on top. I'm filling it back up now
 
Anyone know the actual capacity. One guy told me 4 quarts but it's not full yet after I added the 4 quarts.. I thought that number seemed low
 
Airman89 said:
Anyone know the actual capacity. One guy told me 4 quarts but it's not full yet after I added the 4 quarts.. I thought that number seemed low
Click to expand...

The total is 11.9 quarts, but most of that didn't drain out when you dropped the pan.
 
Ok I ended up putting in about 6 quarts and when checking the level about 3/4 of a quart drained out.

Now I've got codes for all solenoids and the torque converter popping up? I reconnected everything exactly the way it was.
 
I went down through all the gears and it does shift, a bit rough but it shifts. I haven't taken it off of the jack stands yet just incase I need to get back under there
 
This is just my luck. Should I just drive it down the road and let it run a few cycles or something?

I'm nervous to do that without some experienced advice, I don't want to blow the transmission up.
 
I think that you don't have the solenoid connector fully seated and bolted down. It's happened to a few others on here as well.
If you get it going (resolve the solenoid errors), you need to reach operating temperature and check the fluid level with the car level and the engine running.
 
I'll go try and tighten it down more. I remember when I tightened it down I thought there was a little extra room to tighten but I didn't want to over do it. Thanks joegr
 
Just make sure it is correctly mated. Some have broken the connectors before.
 
Ok I got it back in there snug and took it for a test drive. Codes all went away. Same thing, solenoid c.

The only difference is that it took quite a bit longer for the code to pop up. Instead of 5 minutes down the road, it lasted 20/25mimutes of driving through town until it popped up and I got he "e" on the dash.

It just will not go into fifth.

If it was a short, or a wiring issue, wouldn't the code pop up right away? Probably when I start the car?

I'm leaning towards the solenoid body even though it appeared fine.

What are your thoughts?
 
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