01 LS Driver Seat makkin me CRAZY!!!!!

01LS richjb

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My 01 LS seats and seatbelts wasn't working. I went and got replacements from the Junk yard. I got everything fixed EXCEPT that flipping drivers seat!!! the original seat was fried! Switches melted from God know what... it was like that for both front seats. Passenger seat, No problems... changed it and everything 5.0. Driver seat, first seat changed, also DEAD, so I exchanged it for another, and only the lumbar works in the seat. I tried reading out the cannon plug. the seat has power going to it from the car, to the seat. I jumped the motors directly and they work but plugging in the plugs to get the seat to work... NOTHING!!!!! I don 't know what else to do. I don't want to go to the dealer and spend more than I already have for them to just tell me what they find. Fuses are all good to go. I just can't figure out what is up with this damn seat! I need to figure out something before returning to the junk yard for an other seat swap!!!! Please help. I've been seearching for almost 2 weeks for troubleshooting and there is almost NO real help out there so I'm hoping some one on here can help me out...:eek::mad: therr's aother issues with the car but this one.... man, this one is just SUCKING away at my life right now!!!!
 
You know, I fully opened this thread expecting a Gnarles Barkley LS thread. I am sad now.
 
Does the seat ground through the wiring harness, or does it ground through the body? I know any time I've ever tested for power I normally hit ground on the body somewhere, not inside the harness I'm working with. If there is a ground wire in the harness it's likely the seat motors do not ground through the seat frame, which would explain this.
 
Grounds shown here...

Driver_seat.jpg
 
Seat Update... I would have updated this sooner but I guess I was waiting to see if there would be an email letting me know that I actually had anything so sorry...
So, I went back to the yard, pulled out another seat for the car, hooked it up to the car and the only thing that worked on the newer seat was the lumbar. @Joegr, Thank a lot for the diagram. I will continue to trouble shoot the problem this weekend with this schematic and I'll let you know what happens. As of right now, I also got a new kick panel fuse box and a computer from a 2000LS and a bunch of fuses and relays cause I just want to get to the bottom of this thing and get over with so I can move on the the next issue so, Thanks again!
Kumba, sorry to dissapoint you but...
Telco, Don't know much about how the ground works on this thing but I'm gonna figure it out and post my findings...
 
Not just the seat anymore...Grrr.!

So, No new news right about now = to no good news:mad: I just don't know what to do with that driver seat issue. I've changed the seat 4 times! they can't ALL be bad the same way.. can they? each seat i installed, only the lumbar part of that seat was working, nothing else! I let that one rest for a few... I started having problems with the AC. It was charged.. working REALLY well... then... stopped blowing cold air and started blowing really hot air! So, I threw my gage on it, found the Low side pegged out! So, then I purged the system till the compressor would kick on but it never did....:mad: So then I started to recharge it slowly.... got to where it was suppose to be a good reading but nothing would happen. I searched for leaks like a mad man but found nothing:( before servicing it anymore, I went through the book looking for ideas and found the "compressor clutch" fuse was blown... changed it and BOOM... it was working... ! So I finished servicing the system... working just find... drove it for another 2 days and then HOT air again... now I'm hoping someone can tell me why it keeps blowing the comp clutch fuse.... this car is just going from bad to worst! I now found that have a stuck caliper bracket sleeve that is no $h!t frozen, causing my driver rear brake pad 1/2 stuck on all the time, I need rear bearings but they only sell the hub and I don't really want new hubs it cost to damn much! found the rear sway bar and stabilizer bushings... ALL blown out but not totally loose yet.... I think I can go on and on but... just not gonna bother.... any ideas... besides junking it?:shifty::(:mad:
 
Not sure about the seat.

Fuse is most likely due to a bad DCCV or compressor/clutch. Could be something more but those are the most common issues.
Heat up the caliper bracket bolt and pull the pin out, grease and install or buy new ones.
You can buy a bearing and have it pressed into the existing rear hub, multiple threads on this. I just picked up my car yesterday from a shop that replaced the left side.
 
... now I'm hoping someone can tell me why it keeps blowing the comp clutch fuse....:)mad:

Your DCCV is shorting out and blowing the fuse that it shares with the compressor clutch. I suggest replacement of the DCCV.

Note that one difference between the passenger seat and the driver's seat is that the driver's seat is controlled by the electronic seat memory module. Have you swapped the module? Have you verified that the data communications bus to the module is good?
 
@hawk03~~~> what is the DCCV? Just not sure exactly what that means... the compressor clutch seems to be working because it's engaged after I change the fuse and works woth out any noises plus, I can turn the compressor clutch plate effortlessly. I suspespected it first... then after goofing with it and saw that it wasn't frozen and worked fine when the fuse wasn't blown so... thats where i'm at with it. I'm looking up the "DCCV" so I can check it out. yesterday, I decided to try and bleed the system a little and bring the pressure from the low side from about 48PSI down to about 30-35PSI... now, when I turn on the AC, the fuse didn't blow but the compressor was working but the air wasn't cool at all...it was like ambient air and now you hear what sounds when you first turn out your home AC and it's like a fluid/hissing sound coming from the dash... it's like the sound of freon going through the system and it doesn't go away... Low side pressure is still between 35-40psi so I didn't know w hat to make of it.....

about the Brakes.. I'll just get to tht when I get a chance... I know i'm going to need another bracket as bad as that one it so I'll be looking into that soon. For now, I sort of have it working....=/ I'm looking into the bearings now... there are few different ones so I just need to know which one/type is the right one and get it. Also, I was asking around a few shops... they almost don't really want to touch it cause they were saying there isn't a good chance of getting the old bearing pressed out with out damaging the hub...=( IDK what to say about that one...
 
The DCCV is the dual coolant control valve. It's two valves that control coolant flow through the two heater cores. It's known to short out because the coolant sometimes leaks into the solenoids. The DCCV shares the fuse with the AC clutch.

You'll need to go somewhere to correctly recharge your AC system now. You have to monitor both the high side and low side pressures, have the fan on maximum, and compare the readings to the correct chart for your car and your exterior temperature. There is no one pressure that is correct for the low side, it all depends on conditions.

BTW, compressor mechanical load has nothing to do with the amount of current the AC clutch draws, but the fact that the AC in no longer cooling does change how much the DATC opens and closes the DCCV.
 
@Joegr~~~> about the seat, I've swapped out entire seats with modules about 4 times... I was t hinking that the computer on the door might be an issue but then I was told that the door computer is mostly for the memory function... so I was back down to wondering about the wiring on the car side cause i was having a hard time believing that all 4 seats (not including the original) had bad modules and worked exactly the same way you know what I mean? I did jump the motor straight from the battery just to check to see if they were working and even fried a seat once before returning it... lol.. that's when I started thinking the problem might be with the car and not the seat...

By the way, the "AC filter" message wont go away from the message center from the car. I already changed the cabin filter by the fire wall... i've tried to reset it quite a few times but it wont go away and would you or anyone else on here know what to do about the KAM code that I can't seem to reset? It's the only code coming from the code reader... I know I've read through a few threads but although there are some simular issues that have been posted in the past, after trouble shooting, it's almost like my car has something different so that's why I was posting my thread. and I still can't find much of anything as far as a manual for this car which is driving me nuts! lastly, any ideas on where to get replacement bulbs for the instruments besides the dealer? Thanks... if anyone would rather just call me.. I'm good with it too... I am in the southern Maryland area and really wouldn't mind either meeting or talking to some one out here you know what I mean??????
 
Yes, I think that your seat problem is something to do with the car. I'm sure I could figure it out if I was there, but I'm also sure that I can't figure it out from here.

On the filter message reset.

Press reset when the message comes up.
Press status.
When the AC filter status comes back up, press reset again.
Release reset. You'll get a message saying to press and hold reset for new.
Press and hold reset until it says new filter.
 
Thanks Joegr,
mI'm going to give that filter reset another try. I'll let you know what happens after lunch... as for the seat thing... don't know what to say about it but the AC thing i'm just trying to deal with with for now... Thanks again.
 
Well... Here it is... So, After getting my annoying ac filter change re-setted (thanks Joegr!!!), that very same day, I was driving my car and it started over heating!!!! I stopped, popped the hood to see what was going on and the only thing I saw was that the reservoir was bubbling a little..... I started to unscrew it, heard the hissing from the pressure, tightened it back up and started looking for leaks.... The only fluid I saw leaking came from what seem to be the over flow of the reservoir. I waited it out some so the car would cool... checked it out, remembered reading about that bleeder knob by the reservoir, started the car back up, waited till it was warmed up and slowly opened the bleed knob. got a small amount of air and then study stream of coolant. at that time, temperature seemed normal so, I drove it the next day. it overheated again! This time, I quickly turned on the heat full blast, trying to by myself some time to pull over and check it out... but I wasn't getting much for heat from the vents... I found it a bit odd. I got to pull over before starting to cause any damage to the engine... again, started looking for leaks but found none. I checked the oil and it was clean! check the oil cap, CLEAN. check the reservoir and it was almost empty... but I couldn't see any fluid that leaked from anywhere.... So I put fluid in the reservoir, hoping that after i started it, that the fluid would go where it needed to but it wouldn't really go anywhere. the reservoir was full. So I let it cool, ran it to the house. started to tearing down to get to the thermostat... the 2 big hoses that I had to disconnect to get to the thermostat did not have fluid... then, as I got to the thermostat, there was no fluid there either... thermostat seem to be almost new and looked like it was working... so, could it be the water pump???? I just don't know what to do with this car anymore... it's stripped me of all the years of experience I've had working on all the other cars that I've always fixed!!! anyone have any ideas? Please help.... I'm ready to junk this car or take a double barrel to it or something.....!
 
if you had any air come out of the bleeder, then you had air trapped in the cooling system, this air was probably let in through a leak.


also never, never, never, never try to unscrew the coolant cap when the system is hot.

never!
 
Just an important point about the heater bleed (the one by the degas bottle). You have to set the climate control to max heat before and during bleeding from the heater bleed. Setting it to max heat opens the water valves for the circuits to the heater core and the heater bleed.

You have one or more leaks somewhere. They don't have to be big, they just have to be enough to let air in. It's very very unlikely to be the water pump. It's very very likely that the degas bottle is at least one of the leaks. You'll have to remove it to see. Also, you'll have a hard time finding the other leaks if you are looking for liquid coolant. You need to look for dried coolant residue to find the leaks. Better yet, just replace all the plastic cooling system parts.

Also, verify that your hydraulic cooling fan is working correctly.
 
Joe, Where can I get a manual for this car...? I've been searching and got no real results besides needing to pay a lot of money... Nothing on this car seems standard and I'm just looking for a manual I guess to get hings done right on this POS... Also, where would I find the replacement parts you're suggesting. As I starting taking it apart... plastic stuff is starting to fall apart...! The hyd fan is working... I don't really know how to tell wether it's working propperly or not. I just know that when the AC was workinging, I sounded like it was working more than now. it turns... thats about all I can say....
 
I think it's time to part... This LS is has officially pissed me off.....! I can't believe that the plastic tubing on this thing cost so much and the fact that i'm getting my a$$ kicked looking for stuff and trying not to break any more of it is just....AAAHH... I was wondering, how much interest is there in this part parts if I was just to part is out? Just let me know... cause i'm now taking suggestions and offers...
 
Question my driver seat in my lincoln ls 2001 is stuck in the front damn near touching the steering wheel I suppose the motor is out is there a way to manually adjust then seat back ...
 

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