03 LS Alternator Replacement due to bad bearings?

I'd go ahead and replace the idler pulley too. (I think that your test says it isn't the problem, but it is a wear item too.)
 
Technically, the water pump should be too right? but no symptoms that show it needs replacing.


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yabadaba said:
Technically, the water pump should be too right? but no symptoms that show it needs replacing.


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Correct, but it is a noticeably greater expense and effort. Anyway, yes you could wait till signs of failure on the idler.
 
So i haven't had time to change anything, but I did test my alternator and the battery is showing less than 12v while off and less than 14v while on and accessories on. I am tempted to replace the alternator and the belt with the motorcraft one i have and go from there.
For replacing the tensioner, can I use any one that is compatible?
 
Normally a fully charged battery in good condition should read about 12.6 volts with a meter. An alternator usually puts out 1.5 volts over battery voltage when charging properly... so just over 14 volts. How old is your battery??? What voltage is it showing without the car running??? If it's down around 10.5 volts,,, you most likely have a bad cell in the battery. If it's say,,, 11.2 volts... you may have a cell starting to go. May want to get the battery "load tested" at a shop somewhere.
 
This is a long time over due, but I finally changed the tensioner and the belt that the 'mechanic' put on with a Ford/Jaguar belt and the chirping is gone! car seems to idle better as well. thanks all.
 
04_Sport_LS said:
^^^ And you say my reaction is kneejerk when I go for OEM parts first... and that I distrust anything that doesn't come over a dealership parts counter??? I think you just kinda proved my point. Not being snippy,,, I'm just sayin............
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There are some parts that SHOULD be sourced from the original manufacturer. But, as is usual, there are some things that can be as easily aftermarket and there may be some benefit to going aftermarket. ANYTHING 'blanket' is somewhat questionable.

KS
 
As far as aftermarket belts, are DAYCO belts ok?

joegr said:
Personally, I would replace the idler, the tensioner, and the belt (get the Ford/Jaguar belt this time, they last for over 100K miles). I would most certainly throw out that shorter belt and put the correct length one in. That's potentially adding stress to everything the belt drives. Never go back to that "mechanic."

Even if these aren't the source of the noise (but they probably are), they are wear items that are needed sooner or later. You don't want one to fail in operation and cause expensive damage.
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I don't know. The Ford/Jaguar belts last 150K miles, so I've never looked at aftermarket for the belt.
 
So the original belt that's on the LS with about 53k miles still should be ok? It's about 14 years old now also, looks fine but?
 
The manual says to check it at 100K/10years and to replace it at 150K/15 years at most. I would replace it. I've replaced mine (though they looked really good) at each cooling system refresh.
 
cammerfe said:
There are some parts that SHOULD be sourced from the original manufacturer. But, as is usual, there are some things that can be as easily aftermarket and there may be some benefit to going aftermarket. ANYTHING 'blanket' is somewhat questionable.
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Cam,

I'm not saying you did anything wrong. You had an emergency repair on "race day", and did what you needed to do. Under normal circumstances however... I myself would go for OEM if I had the chance. I have seen parts quality deteriorate over the last 20 or so years, (bought last couple water pumps for my '95 F-150 from the dealer because of this). Since Moog was was bought out in recent years... and it appears even their quality has somewhat diminished in reliability. That means to me... that most suspension parts I buy,,, will be from OEM or and OEM supplier, (even if it is European).

I am getting sick and tired of seeing.... "Made in Mexico", or "Made in China"... on what USED to be parts sourced and or built "in the USA".

"Made in America"... used to mean something!!! It meant pride, quality, and craftsmanship!!! Thanks to the Trade Agreements of the last 30+ years,,, we have seen that diminish to the point where people want the cheapest they can "get by with"!!! Of course we all know that "getting by"... is different from having something "reliable".

Sorry... I was raised by a WW2 VET,,, and have a B-I-L that is a Viet Nam era VET. I'm sick and tired of watching this country go "down the tubes" and being sold off to "the lowest bidder"

Not getting on your case... just saying what we "used" to "know" as TRUE. You have "years" on me... so you should know I'm telling the truth.

God Bless America... and "God Bless Our Troops". May justice be served where it needs to be.
 
Buy OEM:rolleyes:... Replaced my alternator with a "FOMOCO reman unit" off rockauto in 2018 and about 2yrs later the bearing started making noise. Now it sounds awful and is roaring away.. Ignored it for a while because I did not want to believe the OEM unit failed so quickly.. Screwdriver test is more than obvious.

About how much does it run today to have a shop replace the bearing? Local starter/alternator shop said they have to see it first. Almost wonder if I should have bought a decent aftermarket unit instead..

I don't remember much removing it really, just that the long pass through bolt took like 2hrs to get out because with the motor jacked up as high as possible the sway bar was still in the way..
 
There's a thread on here somewhere... where a member came up with a really good, easy, quick shortcut to get the bolts out of the alternator.

Unfortunately it was a few years ago, and I have no idea how to search for it (key words).
 
Good shop quoted me $250 labor in and out same day plus the old fellow's cost next door to rebuild it.. not bad. Decided to go ahead with it due to it being such a PITA to remove especially w/o a lift. Think it took me around 4-5hrs last time to remove.
 
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