'04 Suspension upgrade/replacement update/question

[rgorke]

Hey there...

It's been a while since I've been on the forum...all things had been good with my LS!!! As a refresher, I have rebuilt the entire cooling system with Motorcraft parts, had the transmission fully rebuilt, rebuilt the intake manifold with the 8 small gaskets to fix an air leak and lean code, installed Jag big brakes, and several other things. I replaced the coil over shocks a couple years ago with some low mileage OEM sports. The knuckles/lower ball joints were replaced 5-6 years ago as well.

I now need to replace the upper control arms due to a clunky rattle (that's the best I can do in terms of what it sounds like) going over small bumps. I jacked up the front and shook the tire/wheel at 9 and 3 and 12 and 6. No noise at 9 and 3 but could see and hear the upper arm ball joint move and make noise as I shook the wheel. I have Lemforder arms on the way from RockAuto and have had some very low mile Thunderbird lower arms for a couple of years waiting to be installed. I also just got some new Michelin tires at a good price and had an alignment planned for this morning but am waiting until I get these parts installed.

My first question is related to the camber/caster/alignment bolts for the lower arm. I read in the service manual (I have a full hard copy set) that they recommend that these bolts be installed when a lower arm is replaced. If the arms already have an alignment bolt installed, do I need to replace the bolt or can I reuse the one that is there?

Regardless of the answer to the first question, how do I get the alignment close so that I don't do any damage driving the car to the alignment shop when I am done with the install?

Thanks!

Roger

 

[milehighmikey]

The slight variances in those parts should not be of much concern for a ride to the alignment shop. If you have alignment camber bolts installed, mark them and reinstall in the original spots since the parts should be pretty much standardized.

 

[04_Sport_LS]

that they recommend that these bolts be installed when a lower arm is replaced. If the arms already have an alignment bolt installed, do I need to replace the bolt or can I reuse the one that is there?

I reused the cam bolts with no problem. IIRC... some LS's didn't come with the cam bolts. I think that's why it's worded that way.

Your 2nd question isn't so easy. The toe is fairly simple to get right... by using a string line across the tires front to rear.

Easiest way to zero the camber (or get close) is with a 2ft level vertically on the tire.

Problem with all of this is that the suspension needs to be loaded when aligning (just like it would be on the rack.

This means you need 4 jack stands positioned as far out on the control arms as possible...
or 4 same sized vehicle ramps.

This will allow you to get undet the car to make adjustments.

Don't forget about the rear toe links... because they affect/adjust the rear toe also... especially the passive version of the toe links.

 

[rgorke]

Thanks guys!

Unfortunately, my upper arms are coming from two different Rock Auto locations, one arriving today and one tomorrow. As I mentioned, I already have the lower arms.

My plan of attack is to replace one arm at a time rather than pull the entire side apart. IOWs, I'll start with removing the shock/coil on the passenger side, then remove and install the lower arm. Then, with the shock still out, I can remove and install the upper arm and reinstall the shock. In my mind, this approach allows me to replace each part without removing the entire knuckle assembly. I think this will work unless I am missing something. I think this is how the manual articulates the process.

 

[milehighmikey]

Hopefully, the manual tells you to also remove the sway bar end link during this process. This will allow you to extend the control arm travel to make attaching the shock a bit easier.

 

[04_Sport_LS]

There are locking tabs on the nuts for the upper arms. They are flimsy and dont really hold the nut. You will need a wrench.

The drivers left front UCA rear nut is a PITA. The master cylinder is in the way. Some suggest removing the MC and brake lines.

I found a "work around" by using a straight ratcheting box end wrench... one "click" at a time.

Everything uses nyloc nuts. If you plan on reusing the nuts... get some orange loc-tite for the bolt threads.

 

[04_Sport_LS]

And double check the T-Bird lower front arms with the factory ones on there now. Something in the back of my head says they are slightly different... but I might be fooling myself.

 

[joegr]

... Some suggest removing the MC and brake lines.

...

No need to disconnect any brake lines, just detach the master cylinder from the booster and move it very slightly out of the way.

Disconnect the fluid level sensor connector.

Disconnect the brake master cylinder main pressure transducer electrical connector, if equipped.

Back out the reservoir bolt to obtain access to the master cylinder bolt.

• To install, tighten to 8 Nm (71 lb-in)

Remove the 2 brake master cylinder nuts and position the brake master cylinder aside.

• To install, tighten to 25 Nm (18 lb-ft).

 

[rgorke]

Thanks for all the info…got the passenger lower arm in. The biggest PITA is getting the arm rear bolt out. Had to, as the manual states, loosen the rack to get the bolt out.

 

[04_Sport_LS]

@joegr

Yeah... that does sound familiar now that you mention it... but I did get away with not having to do that since I used a ratcheting wrench.

Forgot to mention though that the nuts with the locking tabs dont have much of a hex to grab... so use a pair of channel locks or vice grips to hold the nuts by the locking tabs.once you get them threaded most of the way on... then tighten from the bolt head side.

 

[04_Sport_LS]

Make sure you torque the rack bolts to spec. Use Loc-tite on them too.

 

[LS2003V8]

For "clunk" in the front, when going over a bump, turning and such ... CHECK the two links on the front Sway Bar.

This is most likely the cause, and new ones should be in the national warehouse of Ford/Lincoln parts.

... as my 2003 had that issue and were replaced during its 16-year extended warranty.

 

[LS2003V8]

... for the LS in question .... owned since new.

 

[rgorke]

For "clunk" in the front, when going over a bump, turning and such ... CHECK the two links on the front Sway Bar.

This is most likely the cause, and new ones should be in the national warehouse of Ford/Lincoln parts.

... as my 2003 had that issue and were replaced during its 16-year extended warranty.

View attachment 828577099

Thanks…sway bar links are new…but upper arm ball joints were toast…

 

[rgorke]

Are cam bolts 100% necessary? Yes, I know what the manual says but the car was aligned w/o them to begin with and my car has been aligned previously w/o cam bolts.

Is it a matter of convenience and/or making it easier for the independent alignment folks?

 

[joegr]

Are cam bolts 100% necessary? Yes, I know what the manual says but the car was aligned w/o them to begin with and my car has been aligned previously w/o cam bolts.

Is it a matter of convenience and/or making it easier for the independent alignment folks?

It's a matter of making some adjustments possible in a reliable way. For the cost vs reward, I would get them. Technically, DOT requires all bolts that are removed to be replaced with new anyway.

 

[rgorke]

It's a matter of making some adjustments possible in a reliable way. For the cost vs reward, I would get them. Technically, DOT requires all bolts that are removed to be replaced with new anyway.

Thanks…just confirming…

 

[rgorke]

For "clunk" in the front, when going over a bump, turning and such ... CHECK the two links on the front Sway Bar.

And, when I started tearing things apart, I discovered that the passenger lower shock nut was loose. Eeek!!! That could have been a source of the clun-attle (clunk/rattle). it was only going over small bumps and not turning.

I'm 3/4 of the way through...just waiting on DHL to deliver the drivers upper control arm...

 

[rgorke]

It's a matter of making some adjustments possible in a reliable way. For the cost vs reward, I would get them. Technically, DOT requires all bolts that are removed to be replaced with new anyway.

My set has a short and long bolt…short barely fits the rear bushing…

 

[rgorke]

My set has a short and long bolt…short barely fits the rear bushing…

Ugh…nvm!!! Short bolt in front!!!!

 

[04_Sport_LS]

And, when I started tearing things apart, I discovered that the passenger lower shock nut was loose. Eeek!!! That could have been a source of the clun-attle (clunk/rattle). it was only going over small bumps and not turning.

Yup... no loc-tite on the nut.

 

[rgorke]

What an absolute SOB!!! I could NOT "position the brake master cylinder aside." I think the main issue was not being able to get the electrical connectors off that were pointed down. I feared breaking them. So, I did the best I could and was finally able to get the nut off using my Harbor Freight tilting ratcheting wrench. Getting the nut back on proved to just as frustrating. I ended up bending the locking tab up a bit so I could turn the bolt and held the nut with a pair of spring loaded soldering tweezers to get it started.

Another suggestion is making sure one has the top of the knuckle at least loosely connected to the upper arm before lifting the lower arm to get the shock lined up. The knuckle can and will come around give one a solid whack to the temple.

I just need to double check that I have everything reassembled, snug bolts, put wheels back on and then torque once it is off jack stands. For the passenger side, I put the wheel back on, jacked it up a little higher, slid a ramp under the wheel, and then lowered it onto the ramp. That way I could get under the car and torque the LCA bolts.

Then I am off to the alignment shop. I am planning on bringing print outs of the alignment specs so they have them handy unless that might appear as an insult to them...?

 

[04_Sport_LS]

I think the main issue was not being able to get the electrical connectors off that were pointed down. I feared breaking them. So, I did the best I could and was finally able to get the nut off using my Harbor Freight tilting ratcheting wrench. Getting the nut back on proved to just as frustrating. I ended up bending the locking tab up a bit so I could turn the bolt and held the nut with a pair of spring loaded soldering tweezers to get it started.

Perfect!!! Sounds about right from what I remember. Only minor thing different I did was use a plunger type claw tool to hold the nut.

Sorry I didn't mention that. I forgot.

 

[04_Sport_LS]

IIRC... I mounted the shock loosely in the lower arm first... with the bolt loose... and jacked the arm and shock up together (after aligning the studs on the shock with the holes in the tower).

 

[rgorke]

IIRC... I mounted the shock loosely in the lower arm first... with the bolt loose... and jacked the arm and shock up together (after aligning the studs on the shock with the holes in the tower).

Actually, I think that’s how I did the passenger side! Now on to the next issue, power steering leak! I’ll start a meeting thread for that one.