Then why am I still getting the BAP code after replacing the EGR? All of the lines going into the EGR are intact and the car isn't suffering from an obvious vacuum leak.
Gonna try but I can't even see it anymore. It's inside the pulley. My honest opinion that pulleys should all be solid and not hollow on one side... One of these days I'll learn to quit trying to fix my own car.
Sorry to revive an old thread, but I pulled up the same code (P0108) on Saturday. I have done some searching here and a general search on google and it seems that the fix for this is replacing the EGR valve? Correct me if I am wrong with that. I plan on checking the vacuum lines when I get home tonight and cleaning the MAF later on when I get a little more time. Before this code came up, I noticed about a 1-2 MPG drop and a slight loss of power during accelleration, however I also have had an off-and-on check engine light for a few months that pulls the code P0430 (Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold Bank 2) so I chalked it up as that. How difficult of a job is EGR valve replacement on this car? Can it be done in an apartment parking lot with a basic mechanics tool kit? It appears to be easy to access but I just want to make sure that I dont bite off more than I can chew before starting. Any help is greatly appreciated
Thanks guys, I will check the vacuum lines and wiring when I get back to my car tonight. I assume that Motorcraft is going to be the way to go. Has anyone ordered this off rockauto and did it come with a gasket or should I buy that seperate?
Actually, the EGR valve assembly is expensive, and normally doesn't fail. I'd very strongly consider e-bay or a local junkyard for this part.
I will look there as well. The motorcraft EGR is $92.99 at rockauto unless I am looking at the wrong part, which isnt too bad, but I will look at some junkyards too. Thanks for the tip
You're right. The last time I looked for a similar Ford EGR assembly it was $250 discounted new. I consider around $100 a fair price.