2.5 Hour DYNO TUNE = 337.9 HP & 405.4 TORQUE

B

Brock

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The chart can be seen clearer if you click on the forum below.
http://brocktownsend.forum5.com/viewtopic.php?t=1367&mforum=brocktownsend

http://www.fastlanemotorsports.us/UHome.asp

(Factory tune run produced 229.2 HP and 245.3 TORQUE. The "Blue Line" run of 251.3 HP and 286.2 TORQUE was a "HARD SHIFT PERFORMANCE TUNE." The "RED LINE" run of 337.9 HP and 405.4 TORQUE was with a 100 shot of dry nitrous. The graph shows spark misses which the tuner told me was caused by the plug gap. I gapped them down from 44 to 37, but he said they should be gapped between 32 and 34. BT)

FASTLANE 2.5 Hour Dyno Tune I.jpg
 
That is some pretty nice torque numbers. Closing that gap will help if you are having a little blowout occurring. You will probably lose a little bit of power in the area's of the curve that the spark is not blowing out but you will be better off overall.
 
Yes, the HP was what I was expecting, but the TORQUE was quite surprising. I was also happy with the air/fuel ratio. I know it is a tossup, but I was wondering what I should close them to, as I would rather do it only once. I guess 33 to be in the middle?
 
Impressive

What impresses me the most is the "blue line" reading with the tune. 20hp and 40ft/lb's with an aftermarket tune is amazing. Can't wait to get an Xcal.:D
 
"Any chance you could post a pic of how you have it plumbed in?"

Copied and pasted from my photo gallery below.

COMPUCAR Nitrous In Bag EFI Dry Kit 100 HP NX NOS, KKM Tru-Rev Sport Induction Kit, SCT Xcal3, and Custom 2.5" Magnaflow exhaust system.

Nitrous Setup Pictures
http://brocktownsend.forum5.com/viewtopic.php?t=1144&mforum=brocktownsend

"How was the A/F ratio measured out the tail pipe? "

I don't know, but I will find out if this will help you..
 
Brock said:
"How was the A/F ratio measured out the tail pipe? "

I don't know, but I will find out if this will help you..
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The place probably just shoved a tailpipe sniffer up his tailpipe and that was that. That is how most dyno shops do it.
 
"The place probably just shoved a tailpipe sniffer up his tailpipe and that was that. That is how most dyno shops do it."

That is how the first shop I used did it, and FastLane is closed now.

ILLS: what is the alternative?
 
"What impresses me the most is the "blue line" reading with the tune. 20hp and 40ft/lb's with an aftermarket tune is amazing. Can't wait to get an Xcal."

Jayce 1971:

The tune that came with it produced 232.45 HP and 257.64 TORQUE. That DYNO shop then told me I should go to FastLane for their DYNO tune, since all he had was Sniper which didn't support the LS. He said that nothing could beat an actual DYNO tune, and at least in this instance, he was correct. The 2.5 hour DYNO tune cost $170 complete, but with the increase to 251.3 HP and 286.2 TORQUE, I feel that it was well worth it.
 
Brock said:
ILLS: what is the alternative?
Click to expand...



The best way to do it would be to weld a bung dedicated for wideband use in front of the cat's and screw your sensor in there. This usually requires more work and money than what some people prefer.

One alternative to that is to screw in a wideband sensor into your existing O2 sensor rear bung and use that.

The tailpipe sniffer is the most widely used because it is by far the quickest. Just shove it in and ensure it doesn't move. Not as accurate as the sensor being mounted pre-cat but still just fine to tune with.
 
Brock said:
"What impresses me the most is the "blue line" reading with the tune. 20hp and 40ft/lb's with an aftermarket tune is amazing. Can't wait to get an Xcal."

Jayce 1971:

The tune that came with it produced 232.45 HP and 257.64 TORQUE. That DYNO shop then told me I should go to FastLane for their DYNO tune, since all he had was Sniper which didn't support the LS. He said that nothing could beat an actual DYNO tune, and at least in this instance, he was correct. The 2.5 hour DYNO tune cost $170 complete, but with the increase to 251.3 HP and 286.2 TORQUE, I feel that it was well worth it.
Click to expand...



What that guy failed to mention is that most dyno's do not load the engine correctly for what kind of drag that car will see when actually driving down the road. That means while it may make a good power number on the dyno it may not be safe doing it on the street. I have personally seen cars that dyno good numbers but still lost to a street tuned car because it was tuned under real conditions.

I prefer to street/track tune all the cars I deal with and then if I am curious what power they made I throw them on the dyno. There are some things you can do on the street that you cannot on a dyno. On the flipside there are certain things you can do on the dyno that you cannot on the street. There are benefits to both approaches. That guy only told you one side of the story unfortunately.

Regardless of what he told you it seems you are satisfied which is what matters.
 
ILLS said:
The best way to do it would be to weld a bung dedicated for wideband use in front of the cat's and screw your sensor in there. This usually requires more work and money than what some people prefer.

One alternative to that is to screw in a wideband sensor into your existing O2 sensor rear bung and use that.

The tailpipe sniffer is the most widely used because it is by far the quickest. Just shove it in and ensure it doesn't move. Not as accurate as the sensor being mounted pre-cat but still just fine to tune with.
Click to expand...

here is some detail on what I did - > http://www.lincolnvscadillac.com/showpost.php?p=219118&postcount=480
 
Question for 'Quik' and 'Ills'

If I am understanding your comments regarding the installation of the wide-band O2 sensor, are you leaving the sensor in permanently? I ask because I was under the impression that having an un-powered sensor in place is an invitation to its destruction. 'They must be electrically heated to not foul out'. Is there something I don't uderstand here? :confused:
KenS from Ben's Place
 
you're right. Mine is permenantly installed and attached to my LiveWire - so I can keep an eye on the realtime display - or include it in the datalogging.

When you install it - you have to make sure it starts with the car (so that it is always heated if the car is running), and install a re-calibration button that allows you to re-calibrate it once in a while. A wideband in the exhaust without being heated will be ruined quickly.

When you install it - you have to check for grounding offsets - to ensure that the reading the datalogger is getting is correct. with the LC-1, Sensor and datalogger all using different grounding points you can be off a fraction of a volt - which can make a big difference.
 
Perm install of O2 sensor

Quik LS said:
you're right. Mine is permenantly installed and attached to my LiveWire - so I can keep an eye on the realtime display - or include it in the datalogging.

When you install it - you have to make sure it starts with the car (so that it is always heated if the car is running), and install a re-calibration button that allows you to re-calibrate it once in a while. A wideband in the exhaust without being heated will be ruined quickly.

When you install it - you have to check for grounding offsets - to ensure that the reading the datalogger is getting is correct. with the LC-1, Sensor and datalogger all using different grounding points you can be off a fraction of a volt - which can make a big difference.
Click to expand...

I have no use for a permanent display but would not mind an install with a pigtail into which to plug the Innovate hardware, the SCT and the laptop. I'd happily buy another sensor for each of my applications. Do you know of a location for a schematic to accomplish this, including the re-cal and 'hot' connection?

KenS from Ben's Place
 
I used an Innovate Motor Sports LC-1 -> http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/products/lc1.php

it comes with the wiring diagrams for the re-cal and hot. However - you have to install the 'head' to get the sensor to heat - so really what you want is to install a bung into each vechiles' exhaust ( http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/xcart/product.php?productid=16286&cat=250&page=1 ) and then you can remove the plug and install the sensor as needed.

here is the article I used - > http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2671
 
cammerfe said:
If I am understanding your comments regarding the installation of the wide-band O2 sensor, are you leaving the sensor in permanently? I ask because I was under the impression that having an un-powered sensor in place is an invitation to its destruction. 'They must be electrically heated to not foul out'. Is there something I don't uderstand here? :confused:
KenS from Ben's Place
Click to expand...



The LC-1 in my LS is permanently mounted and turns on with ignition power when the car is started. It is in operation at all times that the car is so that my AFR gauge works and shows me what my AFR's are doing. I consider an AFR gauge mandatory in a car running forced induction for maximum safety.

My separate tuning wideband is only installed into the vehicle whenever I want to tune it. Otherwise the sensor is taken out and the other bung is plugged shut.
 
Quik LS said:
I used an Innovate Motor Sports LC-1 -> http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/products/lc1.php

it comes with the wiring diagrams for the re-cal and hot. However - you have to install the 'head' to get the sensor to heat - so really what you want is to install a bung into each vechiles' exhaust ( http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/xcart/product.php?productid=16286&cat=250&page=1 ) and then you can remove the plug and install the sensor as needed.

here is the article I used - > http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2671
Click to expand...




Quik there is a full LC-1 to Xcal2 integration tutorial. It is in Adobe Acrobat format and about 1.52 MB in size. It basically is a concentrated and organized version of that thread from the Innovate forums that you posted. It contains anything from basic setup to wiring of the LC-1 (or LM-1) to the 9 pin Mini Din cable that the Xcal2 uses, calculating ground offsets, and setting up Livelink for the analog datalogging formula. As you know, your Livewire cable (6 pin firewire cable) is different than the one that the Xcal2 uses (9 pin Mini Din) for analog input.

If either of you wants that file just PM me for my email address and I can send it to you. There is a link to that file on the Innovate site but I forget where it is and do not feel like looking right now. ;)

EDIT: I wasn't as lazy as I thought I was today. Here is the link to that tutorial file in Adobe Acrobat. LINK
 
Thanks Much. I probably had it somewhere in my Innovate material, but had no idea how to find it. I'll see it's put to good use.

KenS from Ben's Place
 
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