2000 Lincoln ls v8

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darreldean

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Hi, I just purchased a 2000 v8 Lincoln ls. Im having problems with it. Its a beautiful car but the battery dies while driving, and the water keeps boiling in the reservoir. Its like the water wont circulate. I replaced the water hose thermostat housing because it was busted from the previous owner, about the battery issue, I was driving home last nite and it just died. My dad came and jumped it and I tried to drive home but had to be jumped a few more times within 7 miles. I charged it all night drove it to town, went to get gas and it was dead again. Wal-Mart checked the battery and said it was good. Can anyone help me with my problems? I bought the car off Craig's list with every dime I had. Please someone help!!
 
2000 v8 Lincoln ls

Hi, I just purchased a 2000 v8 Lincoln ls. Im having problems with it. Its a beautiful car but the battery dies while driving, and the water keeps boiling in the reservoir. Its like the water wont circulate. I replaced the water hose thermostat housing because it was busted from the previous owner, about the battery issue, I was driving home last nite and it just died. My dad came and jumped it and I tried to drive home but had to be jumped a few more times within 7 miles. I charged it all night drove it to town, went to get gas and it was dead again. Wal-Mart checked the battery and said it was good. Can anyone help me with my problems? I bought the car off Craig's list with every dime I had. Please someone help!!
 
Welllllll........ Sounds like the alternator is dead and not charging the battery. You also need to bleed the cooling system EXACTLY as described here, somewhere. Search and you will find it.
 
it does sound like you could have air trapped in the cooling system from improper bleeding, or you could also have another leak in the system from parts that have not been replaced yet (just because there is no coolant leaking, doesnt mean that there isnt a leak somewhere)

if the system not pressurizing (kinda sounds like it from the "boiling" description) then you have a leak, if it is building enough pressure, try properly bleeding it (search for procedure)





also the car needing to be jumped all the time sounds like an alternator failing (it could be loose connectors), if the alt was working, jumping a dead battery once would start to charge it after it started.
 
it does sound like you could have air trapped in the cooling system from improper bleeding, or you could also have another leak in the system from parts that have not been replaced yet (just because there is no coolant leaking, doesnt mean that there isnt a leak somewhere)

if the system not pressurizing (kinda sounds like it from the "boiling" description) then you have a leak, if it is building enough pressure, try properly bleeding it (search for procedure)





also the car needing to be jumped all the time sounds like an alternator failing (it could be loose connectors), if the alt was working, jumping a dead battery once would start to charge it after it started
 
Thank you guys. Im going to try that in the morning. If I take the car to autozone can they check the alternator since its on the bottom of the motor? Again thank you for the help!
 
Also the guy that owned it before me had put an electric fan in it and has a wire ran into the radiator hose on the passenger side top of the radiator with a temp control on it, and rerouted the belt to where it dont run the hydraulic fan motor. Is this bad? I was told that you have to remove the motor to change the original. I want it all back factory but is this ok like this?
 
Autozone can only check the charging voltage while the alternator is on the car. For them to really test it, you have to remove the alternator and take it to them. "I was told that you have to remove the motor to change the original." I'm not sure what you are talking about here, but I'm pretty sure you are wrong.
 
The original hydraulic fan motor. Sorry for not specifying. I was told you had to pull the motot to get it off to replace it. Thanks
 
The guy at the slavage also told me its common for Lincoln ls owners to put electric fans in them when the hydraulic one goes out and reroute the belt? Is this true?
 
darreldean said:
The guy at the slavage also told me its common for Lincoln ls owners to put electric fans in them when the hydraulic one goes out and reroute the belt? Is this true?
Click to expand...

I don't know if it's "common", but it's certainly been done more than once.
 
Ok. The only reason why I asked is could the belt be running the alternator backwards, and if so could that be the reason my battery dies so quick? It might be a dumb question but I thought I'd ask.
 
Doubtful. Alternators run just as well backwards as forwards. The only difference is that the cooling fan on the alternator will be going the wrong way, so it would be more likely to overheat.
It really wouldn't be unexpected or unusual for the alternator on your 13 year old car to be worn out and ready for replacement, especially since it is dealing with the extra load of an electric fan. Also, note that if your electric fan isn't wired in correctly, it could be the problem.
 
Thank you for the info im going to take the alternator off when I get home and have it tested. Ill keep everyome posted. Once again thanks for the help!
 
A few tips on the alternator: it comes out from the bottom, will be easier on ramps rather than jack stands as ramps will keep the suspension compressed which makes it easier to get out.

When you try to remove the bottom bolt from the alternator it will run into the stabilizer bar bracket. You can remove the stabilizer bar, but its a lot easier to loosen the right engine mount bolt and jack the engine (using a short bit of 2x4 between the engine and the jack) up about an inch to get that bolt out.

There is a blind bolt over the alternator, it comes off with a longneck 10mm or 13mm socket, can't remember which. When you get the blind nut off, and it really is a blind nut, the alternator will be hanging off a stud. Then it just slides back a bit.

You will also need to remove the braces that hold the air conditioner lines under the radiator shroud including a sneaky one on top of the lower rad support on the driver's side. I also think that there might be a bracket on the passenger side after it makes the 90 degree turn. Removing these will allow you to move the AC line far enough out of the way to move it, and it almost won't come out without loosening them.

These little tips will cut at least an hour off the job.
 
I thought there was a nut on top, and you aren't kidding about it being blind. By the time I found it it was dark. It sure is the hardest alternator ive ever taken off. Still havent finished. Thank you for the extra advise, it will be alot of help tomorrow when i finish taking it off.
 
Ok so I fixed the boiling in the water reservoir, and the battery diein. Car ran fine for a day and then all of a sudden it built up so much pressure I guess that it busted my reservoir at the seems. Could this be because it just wore out? Is it supposed to have that much pressure? Thanks for everyones help
 
The cap on the degas bottle is a pressure relief type. It is supposed to release pressure at about 16 PSI. Did you have an OEM degas bottle?
Anyway, you now need at least the OEM degas bottle and the OEM degas bottle (radiator) cap.
 
Yea, im pretty sure its the one that came on the car from the factory. It sure had alot of pressure. It was spraying out the seem like crazy and steam out the cap. Im going to buy one tomorrow. I know that was the hardest degas bottle ive ever removed. Couldnt hardly get to the hose on the bottom. Thank you for the help once again.
 
So once looking at my busted degas bottle. There is two hookups on the top of it. The top hose was hooked up to the one that goes nowhere. It had a rubber cap on the one that its supposed to be hooked to. Thats why its building up so much pressure I think.
 
darreldean said:
So once looking at my busted degas bottle. There is two hookups on the top of it. The top hose was hooked up to the one that goes nowhere. It had a rubber cap on the one that its supposed to be hooked to. Thats why its building up so much pressure I think.
Click to expand...

Nope.
One of the things that looks like a hookup is just a nub to hold the heater air bleed in place. There is only one connection at the top. It is for the engine air bleed hose. There is a connection on the bottom that is the coolant return hose. The whole system is closed (pressurized). It is supposed to build up about 10 to 15 PSI of pressure. The degas cap has a pressure relief valve that opens at about 16 PSI to relieve the pressure if it gets too high.
Replace the degas cap to be sure that you won't over pressurize. It is the only thing that limits cooling system pressure. You, of course, also need to replace the degas bottle itself. Get the Ford OEM parts for both. Don't waste your money and time on the Doorman bottle. It is junk. (Doorman does make some good parts, but the degas and the degas cap aren't two of them.)
 
Yea. The previous owner had the heater bleed hose laying next to the bottle and the engine air bleed hose was hooked to where the heater bleed hose went.
 
It should be Like this. If the engine air bleed hose wasn't attached to the air bleed port, the system could never have pressurized, and the bottle couldn't have blown. 5 is the heater bleed. It has no hydraulic connection to the bottle. it just has a holder that slips over a closed nub on the bottle. 4 is the engine air bleed hose. It does have a hydraulic connection to the bottle. Note that the air bleeds into the bottle, there is no manual bleeder on it like there is on the heater bleed. Manual bleeding of engine air is at the front of the engine.

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