Hey guys, I bought this '00 knowing it had an issue with the heater. No matter what the air coming from the vents is not hot and both sides are the same temperature. The A/C is frigid, so it properly adjusts the cold. After researching what it could be I replaced the DCCV or Heater Control Valve. This hasn't helped a bit. The air from both sides is still lukewarm at best. I did the self test on the EATC and got no codes. It seems that the EATC itself may be the problem or the heater core is clogged. However when I opened the heater breather hose the water was very hot. Any ideas? Thanks.
2000 LS Heater issue
- Thread starter Aero
- Start date
dunndarryn
Well-Known LVC Member
Hello to you too, lol. Way to introduce yourself!
joegr
Dedicated LVC Member
It's not likely to be the EATC, which by the way is actually a DATC. If you unplug the DCCV and don't get heat, then it's a mechanical problem. Your coolant isn't circulating in the heater circuits. It could be trapped air. It could be a bad aux pump if you have a V8. It could be that the previous owner put plugs in the heater hoses instead of fixing a bad DCCV so that he could get the AC working.
I've posted here before, this is just a new account. Thanks for the help.
I think that there's air trapped in the system, so I'll keep bleeding it.
2000 Ls 3.9L
I have a similar problem i was told to check the DCCV valve and see if the hoses were hot hot and they were so after i had a diag done they said it was the blend door or actuator.Im in the procees of getting that done done now.
I have a similar problem i was told to check the DCCV valve and see if the hoses were hot hot and they were so after i had a diag done they said it was the blend door or actuator.Im in the procees of getting that done done now.
joegr
Dedicated LVC Member
That should be very interesting, since the LS does not have a blend door. (Your gen I has a bypass door, but it is either full cooling or full heating.) The LS controls temperature via the DCCV. You need to go to a real mechanic that knows something about these cars.
If you get hot air driving down the road, but not at idle, your aux pump has failed.
How hot were the hoses? So hot you can't touch them without getting burned, or just very warm? The most frequent cause of no heat is air in the engine cooling system. The most frequent cause of that is small cracks in the plastic parts or failure to correctly bleed the system exactly by the factory procedure. Have you had any engine cooling problems?
Yes the temp will stay at the halfway mark for 30mins to an hr of driving and will start to creep up after that.I've bled the system several times and there are no visable leaks.The hoses were pretty hot to the touch.
joegr
Dedicated LVC Member
You have trapped air in the system and probably some leaks. You will not see them unless you know how to see them. Your best bet is to replace the degas bottle and all the plastic cooling system parts at the front of the engine. Then bleed according to this (follow it to the letter).
http://www.lincolnvscadillac.com/tech/Lincoln-LS/CoolingSystemDraining/
You will also have to fix your hydraulic cooling fan system.
Im gonna grab a Degas bottle but the radiator,hoses,thermostat and housing unit have all been replaced and i've bled the system per the instuctions and it maintains pressure or so i think.When the car is cold i check the filler cap at the top of the housing and as soon as it's lose it drips out.
joegr
Dedicated LVC Member
That's good enough to verify a major leak, but not a minor one. A minor one is enough to keep the heat from working. However, it sounds like you've covered most of it except for the degas bottle. I assume and hope that stopleak has never been used on the cooling system.
No never used stop leak and never will not a band aid kind of guy.Im gonna check the aux pump and change the DCCV anyway.And I changed the pump actuator and the fan still doesn't kick on high so im done playing with it and am going with the flex a lite conversion.
Had a similar issue a couple years ago, replaced the thermostat and didn't get all the air out of the system. not sure what the "recommended" way was, but it didn't work exactly for me.. i had to repeat the bleed process several times over the course of a day of driving to fix it. but all it was was the air in the system. havent had an overheating or no heater problem since.