i did a Diagnostic (datc) in the car on the temp controll unit to figure out what the prob is no codes poped up.i have a 2000 ls v8 113000 miles and the heat is not really hot jus luke warm at best. i have read a lot about this and everyone is pointing at the dccv. wouldnt a code pop up on the datc? and then i read this thread, http://www.lincolnvscadillac.com/showthread.php?t=57971&highlight=dccv . if what is true in this thread wouldnt i just want to unplug the dccv for the winter and have heat and worry about the dccv when it gets warm or will this mess something else up?
2000 ls no heat
- Thread starter cpieler
- Start date
joegr
Dedicated LVC Member
It sounds like you have a small leak somewhere that it preventing the system from building up pressure. You may need to do a pressure test.
Can you give some more detail on the problem?
1. Do you get little heat at idle?
2. Do you get full heat while driving (engine RPM at 2K and above)? Or, is it still little heat?
3. Does the AC cool correctly, or is it sometimes hot on one or both sides?
4. Any electrical type problems (with anything on the car)?
5. Does the engine temperature gauge quickly go to the mid position and stay there?
Can you give some more detail on the problem?
1. Do you get little heat at idle?
2. Do you get full heat while driving (engine RPM at 2K and above)? Or, is it still little heat?
3. Does the AC cool correctly, or is it sometimes hot on one or both sides?
4. Any electrical type problems (with anything on the car)?
5. Does the engine temperature gauge quickly go to the mid position and stay there?
little or no heat at idle.good heat with more rpm.every once in a while in the summer driver side would get hot and passenger would stay coldwith ac on. Airbag light is on. Temp gauge goes up normal and stays in the middle.
joegr
Dedicated LVC Member
Low heat at idle could be a failure of the aux pump, or the circuit that powers it. I'd check and see if the pump is running. It also does sound like you need a new DCCV. I would get the cooling system well flushed just before (or during) changing the DCCV.
M
Mitch
Guest
DCCV - just did mine.
350 dollars parts and labor, didnt have them "scan" the car.
Fixed it.
350 dollars parts and labor, didnt have them "scan" the car.
Fixed it.
tireman
Dedicated LVC Member
sounds like the DCCV is gummed up
put in a new one, or check the ohms reading at the connector on the fan shroud. check ohms reading between the lower right pin and the lower left and upper left pins. If they read 10-23 ohms then the solenoids are ok. anything else then replace the DCCV. If ohms ok, then remove DCCV, remove solenoid cover and clean, clean, clean the entire unit until the springs and piston shafts operate freely, reinstall. If the rubber gaskets are starting to break down, then its better to replace the DCCV unit if you are going to keep the car.
put in a new one, or check the ohms reading at the connector on the fan shroud. check ohms reading between the lower right pin and the lower left and upper left pins. If they read 10-23 ohms then the solenoids are ok. anything else then replace the DCCV. If ohms ok, then remove DCCV, remove solenoid cover and clean, clean, clean the entire unit until the springs and piston shafts operate freely, reinstall. If the rubber gaskets are starting to break down, then its better to replace the DCCV unit if you are going to keep the car.