2000 LS V8 has rattling and knocking sound

I also checked fuse number 1 which looks to be the small 10 amp fuse and not any of the big ones. If I am incorrect with that then can someone please let me know.
 
I also checked fuse number 1 which looks to be the small 10 amp fuse and not any of the big ones. If I am incorrect with that then can someone please let me know. It looks like all connectors are hooked up.
 
So you've had to add some since you last bled the system? If so, then you have air in the system, which is the problem.
 
Tardelli1957 said:
But how can a small air pocket stop heat from coming out. Does anyone think its something else.
Click to expand...

I could have sworn that a little air in there would stop circulation. But now that I think of it, I wonder why they even put the air bleeds in or have the air bleed procedure? I'm sure you are an exception to a lot of the experiences had here. As such, I don't know if I can help you.
 
That sound you hear is the timing chain guide and the check engine light is for the cam sensor. Thats why your idle is alittle high.
Tardelli1957 said:
My car had a broken tensioner which was replaced on drivers side. But the car now has a rattling and knocking sound from that side. It's not a constant rattling as it changes speed and duration. It also has a service engine light on as it runs a bit rough similar to when I replaced 2 coil packs before. The car also idles higher than normal. Anyone know what it is and how to fix it. I hope it doesn't need an engine rebuild or new valve train. This can't be the tensioner seeing that it was changed. Anyone?

http://awes.me/14HRnNJ
Click to expand...
 
joegr said:
I could have sworn that a little air in there would stop circulation. But now that I think of it, I wonder why they even put the air bleeds in or have the air bleed procedure? I'm sure you are an exception to a lot of the experiences had here. As such, I don't know if I can help you.
Click to expand...

Do you think this may be too subtle??????
 
If don't want to follow the suggested repairs why keep up this questioning? Just replace the timing chain & tensioner!
 
joegr said:
I could have sworn that a little air in there would stop circulation. But now that I think of it, I wonder why they even put the air bleeds in or have the air bleed procedure? I'm sure you are an exception to a lot of the experiences had here. As such, I don't know if I can help you.
Click to expand...

Best ever
 
LS4me said:
Do you think this may be too subtle??????
Click to expand...

Yeah I know. That was a little mean, but this is getting frustrating.
On a related note, did you know that a little air bubble in a vein can stop your heart from pumping...
Anyway, I apologize to the OP.
 
joegr said:
Yeah I know. That was a little mean, but this is getting frustrating.
On a related note, did you know that a little air bubble in a vein can stop your heart from pumping...
Anyway, I apologize to the OP.
Click to expand...

I hope you don't know that from experience!!!!!!!!!!
 
Tardelli1957 said:
But how can a small air pocket stop heat from coming out. Does anyone think its something else.
Click to expand...

Let's put it this way - I had a very tiny seep in the hard plastic of the top radiator hose. I listened to the collective intelligence of this board, then immediately spent some 600 bucks to replace all the hard plastic, rubber hoses and gaskets.

My heater works great.

Hint hint hint...
 
Tardelli1957 said:
Well I replaced coil 7 and all the other coils on that side if the engine as well as 7 out if 8 spark plugs due to one if the new plugs breaking when it fell on the floor . The service engine light has now gone away by itself. But unfortunately the car still sounds tough and runs and sounds like its running on one cylinder with a slight hesitation just like a bad coil would do. Does anyone have any suggestions. I've recorded the engine sound.
Click to expand...
I recommend Motorcraft plugs.
 
I am still getting some heat intermittently on passenger side but cold air on drivers side. Does this mean that the DCCV is definitely at fault. Is there anyone who can diagnose this for me.
 
Tardelli1957 said:
I am still getting some heat intermittently on passenger side but cold air on drivers side. Does this mean that the DCCV is definitely at fault. Is there anyone who can diagnose this for me.
Click to expand...

I think that this has been covered pretty thouroughly already...the easiest and most likely culprit of this is air in the cooling system from when they pulled your engine. You seem pretty set on replacing the DCCV though, so have at it because that should involve draining the coolant anyway. Consensus here seems to be air in your cooling system
 
cobey said:
I think that this has been covered pretty thouroughly already...the easiest and most likely culprit of this is air in the cooling system from when they pulled your engine. You seem pretty set on replacing the DCCV though, so have at it because that should involve draining the coolant anyway. Consensus here seems to be air in your cooling system
Click to expand...

You know what I find funny, Cobey? That he's been going on for a week about this, ignoring what everyone is telling him, to avoid a simple 20 minute procedure that costs nothing to perform, because he doesn't want to listen. Me, if someone tells me that I can try a 20 minute procedure free, or spend a couple hundred dollars on a new component, I'm going to say please excuse me, I'll be back in an hour. But then I can't afford to fritter away hundreds of dollars for no good reason. I mean, it's not like he can't go ahead and spend the money on the DCCV if the simple bleed procedure doesn't work.

I'm not going to post on this thread again until he says the bleed procedure is complete, there's just no use in it.
 
Telco said:
You know what I find funny, Cobey? That he's been going on for a week about this, ignoring what everyone is telling him, to avoid a simple 20 minute procedure that costs nothing to perform, because he doesn't want to listen. Me, if someone tells me that I can try a 20 minute procedure free, or spend a couple hundred dollars on a new component, I'm going to say please excuse me, I'll be back in an hour. But then I can't afford to fritter away hundreds of dollars for no good reason. I mean, it's not like he can't go ahead and spend the money on the DCCV if the simple bleed procedure doesn't work.

I'm not going to post on this thread again until he says the bleed procedure is complete, there's just no use in it.
Click to expand...

I absolutely agree. I have been following this thread for a while just because it keeps popping up. I was trying to be slightly polite at least about it, but yeah, this seems like a no brainer to me. Even if it doesn't fix it (which my money is on that it will) its not like it costs much. Yes, if you bring it to a shop they will charge you $50-80 if I remember right, but that's better than throwing parts around
 
And on top of that, if you do the DCCV properly (yes I am aware that people have put them by pinching off hoses) you are paying for a coolant drain and refill, which will include the bleed process anyway. I don't understand the hesitation
 
I apoligize if I dont respond fast enough but my computer is not the best. I believe I have addressed the cooling system and have taken air out. I have re-added coolant and topped it up. I dont believe its leaking as I no longer need to add more coolant. Plus it seems that all hoses goping into the firewall are hot. Does this mean its the DCCV or do you guys still believe its a coolant leak issue or air in the colling system. I bled it from the valve near the firewall. I never had this problem before when draining my coolant. It cant be this picky this time when it wasnt before.


cobey said:
I absolutely agree. I have been following this thread for a while just because it keeps popping up. I was trying to be slightly polite at least about it, but yeah, this seems like a no brainer to me. Even if it doesn't fix it (which my money is on that it will) its not like it costs much. Yes, if you bring it to a shop they will charge you $50-80 if I remember right, but that's better than throwing parts around
Click to expand...
 
Tardelli1957 said:
...I bled it from the valve near the firewall. I never had this problem before when draining my coolant. It cant be this picky this time when it wasnt before.
Click to expand...

There are two bleed points.
Did you follow the fill and bleed procedure exactly and to the letter?
What did you do to stop the leak?

If hot coolant were flowing in the heater hoses, you'd have hot air coming out of the vents.
 
Joeger
I seem to get hit air most of time from passenger side and cool to cold air on drivers side. I don't think their are any leaks as I no longer need to top it off so I think all the air is out. What causes cold air to blow on one side.

joegr said:
There are two bleed points.
Did you follow the fill and bleed procedure exactly and to the letter?
What did you do to stop the leak?

If hot coolant were flowing in the heater hoses, you'd have hot air coming out of the vents.
Click to expand...
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Members online

No members online now.
Total: 241 (members: 0, guests: 241)
Back
Top