2000 LsV8 / No spark /

JustALs

JustALs

Well-Known LVC Member
Joined
Jul 13, 2021
Messages
220
Reaction score
26
Location
Canada
Went shopping, stop and started the ls like 5 times that day and then got home... ran like a champ but 25 minutes later I was about to leave again and no start . Car was still warm but its been -48 outside for the past two days..
so I checked the fuel pressure on forscan and manually at the rail and good pressure, then I was thinking maybe the fuel froze at the injectors . I took a heat gun and heated the rail at the injectors still nothing but still tried that since I before heard its possible for gas to freeze in injectors and after cranking again for 5 mins and no pop at all

..
I said hell theres prob no spark so I took one plug out and it was flooded so there I am obviously getting fuel but tested for spark and none at all. After that I decided to check the fuse and relay for the cops and the fuse was good but swapped the cop relay with the fog light one cause it worked and still nothing
Forscan tells me " DTC GEM open power circuit or shorted power circuit " I tried everything and nothing has anyone else had this happen?
Many thanks
 
Last edited:
JustALs said:
...
Forscan tells me " DTC GEM open power circuit or shorted power circuit " I tried everything and nothing has anyone else had this happen?
Many thanks
Click to expand...
B1794 is Lamp Headlamp Low-Beam Circuit Failure
 
Yes I saw that when I was searching for that DTC on here and I was confused but forscan did not indicate that specific, all my lights work fine tho
 
Last edited:
I dont have any other code related to no spark, ran great before parked for half an hour..
 
Last edited:
Okay so my forscan extended liscense was expired so I rolled the date and time in the past to the date of when I purchased it and it worked lol so full access again..something u guys can try if yours is expired.

Anyhow I figured out how to bring up the PID thing in forscan to check the crankshaft position sensor, it was named " PIP " in PCM tab not sure if this is it but sounds like it. I cranked the engine for like 10 secs and it stayed at "OFF" does this rule out a bad crank posi sensor or should I check the connector?

20230206_043125.jpg
 
Last edited:
PIP should toggle while cranking. PIP is an old term from the early days of Ford computer controlled timing advance.
 
U know your stuff joegr i learn from you everyday on this web lol
Anyways I cleaned the crankshaft sensor connector , no multimeter atm. PIP Still off when cranking and added RPM PID and it doesnt do nothing what do u think
 
Well I got my hands on a multimeter.
Took the crank sensor out it looked clean, no metal shavings on it, looks to be the original oem one.
Not sure about this test but just read about it online..

First test done;
Ohms =; "1070" sensor was at room temp.
Second test; checked ohms too see if they fluctuated when waving the sensor close to some metal; Pass

And last thing I checked the crank sensor connector with the Key ON with the negative probe of the meter ground to chassis ; 1.5V

I could not find the specific OHM reading for the LSV8 crank sensor but online it said """"" If the internal resistance value is 200 to 1,000 ohms (depending on the reference value), the sensor is OK. If the value is 0 ohms, there is a short circuit, and in the case of M Ohm there is an interruption. """""

Pugged it back in and tried to crank it again but still nothing at pip and rpm
Im totaly lost rn ?? maybe I am missing something
 
Last edited:
With key in on position or run i dont see any voltage at any of the fuses in the engine compartment fuse box at all but my wiper fluid n motor works no voltage at coil harness
 
Last edited:
You'll have to methodically trace back to find where the connection stops. You might try fuse 31 in the trunk to see if you get lucky. Note that any blown fuse indicates a problem that you will have to find and correct.
 
So your telling me to trace back the wire from the engine bay fuse box?
Is there supposed to be voltage at the fuses with just the ignition on? Or should I have someone crank while I check

Fuse 31 ; 2000: Not Used
2001-2002: Ignition Switch (V6 manual trans)
 
Yes, there should be power there with the key in the run position.
 
I will try to check the fuse box connections and wires later at -40 with no garage its rough lol.
But the thing I dont understand is fog lights and other stuff is working and is on that box, starter solenloid etc cause it cranks
 
Last edited:
Ok so I have voltage to the engine bay fuse box at every fuses.
BUT ONLY if I put one lead on the fuse and the other lead on the body... What does this indicate?
 
Last edited:
passes ohm test = we still know nothing

fails ohm test = bad

ohming things out is not reliable, tell me if your ckp signal is going up and down with a scope
 
Yo @ajv8
Yes true i didnt trust it, how ever I dont own a scope. I could borrow one but I already ordered a new crank sensor and is on its way.

What I cant understand rn is why dont I see voltage on the engine bay fuse box fuses unless I ground one side of the multimeter at the body? Is this a bad ground or something somewhere
 
Last edited:
JustALs said:
Yo @ajv8
Yes true i didnt trust it, how ever I dont own a scope. I could borrow one but I already ordered a new crank sensor and is on its way.

What I cant understand rn is why dont I see voltage on the engine bay fuse box fuses unless I ground one side of the multimeter at the body? Is this a bad ground or something somewhere
Click to expand...
You need a return path to check voltage, without grounding one side of the meter, there is no way to read the voltage. There is nothing abnormal about this. :)
 
JustALs said:
Yo @ajv8
...What I cant understand rn is why dont I see voltage on the engine bay fuse box fuses unless I ground one side of the multimeter at the body? Is this a bad ground or something somewhere
Click to expand...
Apparently, you don't understand how to make voltage measurements. How else could it work? You need to get someone that knows what they are doing there to help you and show you.
 
What lol come one guys wtf u mean ? I always put both leads on the fuse itself and always read voltage like that..

20230208_180411.png
 
JustALs said:
What lol come one guys wtf u mean ? I always put both leads on the fuse itself and always read voltage like that..

View attachment 828577591
Click to expand...
That doesn't accomplish what you want and what we need to be able to help you.

When you do that:

If the fuse is blown and the circuit is powered and there is a load, you will read battery voltage across the fuse.

If the fuse is not blown, powered or not, and the load is small, you will read zero volts across the fuse.

If the fuse is not blown, is powered, and has a noticeable load compared to the fuse's rating, you will read a small voltage (well under one volt) that is proportional to the current flowing through it. (Actually, the voltage will be the resistance of the fuse times the current flowing in it.)

It tells you practically nothing about whether the fuse has power going to it.
 
Sad to see a junked ls in better shape than mine the jacking points werent even caved in lol...... Grabbed 3 crank sensors at upull paid 25$ 30 day warranty why not this ls had 142k km.. if that is the problem with my ls and works gonna cancel the order that I placed for 66$

20230209_125818.jpg
 
Fixed, runs better that it used to , not 100% sure if it was the sesor but think it was the cpk wire. as soon as I wiggled it while my buddy cranked it fired and all is good now
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Members online

Total: 104 (members: 1, guests: 103)
Back
Top