2002 Lincoln LS - Won't start

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Michael04

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So my 2002 Lincoln LS will not start at all without a jump. It gets no power whatsoever without a jump. No door lights, no beeping sound for the door being open, nothing. After a successful jump, it runs for very little time, dies, and has absolutely no power once again. Any ideas?
 
It could be any number of things but I think it's clear that your alternator is not charging the battery. When you get a jump, you are basically giving the battery a temporary charge that the car runs off of until it dies out. Get another jump, it runs for a while. I had a 1966 GTO that did this. I never did figure out what the problem was but I do know that changing batteries, alternators and voltage regulators did not solve the problem. I ended up selling the car (big regret 38 years later) without fixing the problem but years later it occurred to me that the ground cable for the battery was the likely culprit. I also seem to recall reading here (when I owned my LS) that this was a common issue. If the ground cable for the battery is corroded and not grounded, you will have the very issue you are experiencing.
 
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Thanks for the suggestion! Is this something I can attempt to fix myself? (I have very little car knowledge but confidence in my ability to learn) Or should it be taken in for an issue like this
 
Michael04 said:
Thanks for the suggestion! Is this something I can attempt to fix myself? (I have very little car knowledge but confidence in my ability to learn) Or should it be taken in for an issue like this
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The negative cable for the battery just attaches (to the frame?) somewhere. I honestly don't know where but I would start by tugging on it a bit. If you pull the end off, you'll have your answer as you should not be able to pull it free. Also be certain that the negative cable is FIRMLY attached to the battery and is free of corrosion.

There are several users here with lots more knowledge that will chime in soon. Just give it a few hours.
 
Michael04 said:
Thanks man, I appreciate it
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If you are mechanically inclined, the next step is to have the Alternator tested, free at any auto parts store. Removing the Alternator is not something I have ever done on an LS but it looks to be a real PITA. I can have the Alternator off my Town Car in 20 minutes but as I recall, the Alternator on the LS is buried near the bottom, somewhere.

If you have a mechanic you trust, you may want to charge/jump the battery and drive it to them.
 
All2kool said:
...but I think it's clear that your alternator is not charging the battery.
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To clarify this remark: Not charging could be the bad ground from the negative battery as earlier stated or the alternator itself. One thing is certain - you can only drive the car after it gets some charge and then only until that charge runs out. If you were to put in a brand new battery, you would be good to go for a few hundred miles, until it ran down.
 
Wow, you're very thorough. I really appreciate it. So first step is to check the battery's ground wire. If that checks out, move on the the alternator?
 
Michael04 said:
Wow, you're very thorough. I really appreciate it. So first step is to check the battery's ground wire. If that checks out, move on the the alternator?
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That's the route I would take.

Make sure both connections to the battery are clean and secure. A battery terminal cleaning tool is available at any auto parts store for just a few dollars. Make sure the negative cable is secure and clean wherever the other end attaches. If all looks good and the issue continues, have the Alternator checked.
 
so for sure the battery is way too dead to even try to run the car. it needs to be taken out of the car (or at least fully unhooked) then it needs to be fully charged up (maybe 8 or more hours) then you should test it or have it tested (which almost any auto parts store will do for free)

Then, IF (and only if) it passes, put it back into the car and start it up, with the car running, turn on all the stuff you car (headlights, wipers, blower, rear defroster...) and measure the voltage at the battery, if it is above 14, then your wiring and alt are probably fine.

at this point, (assuming that you didn't leave something on and drained the battery) you probably have a draw somewhere that killed your battery in the first place that will need to be found. then again, test one probably failed and the battery may just be done for and just needed to be replaced the whole time... as long as you didn't drive it too long with a weak battery hurting your alternator and maybe it will be fine


thing to note, if the battery is completely dead(which yours 100% is), then A: it has probably been damaged and probably needs to be replaced now regardless of what the problem actually is and B: can be such a server drain on the charging system that right after being jump started, the car will often not run well or at all (I have seen this 1st hand many times with my LS)

the battery really needs to be charged up before trying to start the car. starting the car with a dead or possibly damaged battery and hoping that the charging system will bring it back to life may just cause more damage to the car and should never be done.
 
Michael04 said:
Ok awesome. Why am I focusing only on the negative cable?
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you shouldn't be. with a DMM, you can do test and actually find out the problem, it could just as well be a positive wire somewhere as opposed to a negative wire...
 
Very detailed, thank you. Ok, so if I wanted to do all of this myself, what supplies will I need? Assume that I lack even the basic tools required to take the battery out and stuff like that because I probably don't
 
Michael04 said:
Ok awesome. Why am I focusing only on the negative cable?
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As I posted, you will want to make sure BOTH connections are clean and secure at both ends.

I do remember reading here that the negative cable has an issue with corrosion at the connection not on the battery. If you car has rust from salted roads, even more so I believe.
 
Michael04 said:
... it runs for very little time, dies, and has absolutely no power once again. Any ideas?
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It shuts itself off within 2-3 seconds and the alarm sounds?

You need a new OEM battery.
 
Michael04 said:
Very detailed, thank you. Ok, so if I wanted to do all of this myself, what supplies will I need? Assume that I lack even the basic tools required to take the battery out and stuff like that because I probably don't
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8mm deep socket on small ratchet and a 10mm wrench.
Negative post is 10mm, positive post is 8mm.
8mm deep socket to remove the battery hold down, two bolts.

Battery out, on charger overnight. Take voltage readings when off the charger.

Re-install. Try starting again.
 
As already pointed out by others. Your battery is too weak. It's not able to take a charge or it's not getting a charge. This LS requires a vented battery in the trunk, so if your going to replace it, it must be one with a vent tube. The OEM is cheapest and desired.
 
Just a warning here. Do it wrong and you'll melt the wrench into your hand. Also, if it's the wrong battery or the vent tube isn't connected, you could trigger an explosion.

Always disconnect the negative terminal first, and reconnect the negative terminal last.
 
to be clear, testing the voltage of the battery alone after it has been taken off of the charger may not reveal if the battery is good. you need to see how it handles under load... which if you don't have a battery tester or feel like taking it to somebody with a tester that will do it for free, your next best option would be to hook it back up to the car, and turn on a bunch of accessories, then meter the battery (with the engine off), if the voltage drops a lot then the battery is shot.

also it should be noted, that when you replace the battery, the one you get has to be very specific, at a minimum, it needs to have a vent tube. and when I last replaced mine, the dealer had the best price. I think it was around $125?



so if this is something that you want to do yourself, then you need to add a DMM (Digital Multi Meter) to the tool list. you can probably get away with a cheaper one, but a good one is a worthwhile investment...
the most basic one that I usually recommend is the fluke 101
Amazon product ASIN B00JT5RUUU
if youre really in a pinch, I might be willing to try a cheaper Innova meter, as I have used a couple of their products so far and they have not been terrible...
Amazon product ASIN B000EVYGZA
 
joegr said:
Just a warning here. Do it wrong and you'll melt the wrench into your hand.
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not gonna lie, I've seen a wrench or two get spot welded to a support brace or fender a couple of times...
 
1LoudLS said:
not gonna lie, I've seen a wrench or two get spot welded to a support brace or fender a couple of times...
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~ sometimes it's not the tool, at times it can be the tool using the tool.
 
... then this car is not for you.


Hi Honey, I just bought a used Lincoln LS.
Ok Dear, let's go to the store and get you some tools.
 
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