2002 v8 bogs down at red light, dash lights go dim

Blueberryyum02

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Ok I have a 2002 lincoln ls that seems to be slowly dieing out at, red lights
But if I put her in neutral, she comes alive, my first thought was battery or alternator, alternator is less then 5 months old, battery is good but defiantly need a yellow top, to handle my my aftermarket radio,

My only next thing would be the IAC, I cleaned it A while back, and notice that the shaft on the pintle when depressed seems to hang up, and thought it was by design, other cars that I have worked with over the years of would slide in and out freely.

could this be my problem?

Thanks in advance.
 
Im having the exact same issue on my 02 ls v8. Anybody have any ideas? I was thinking battery also....
 
I don't know why you would think battery, if the lights dim at a light, that usually means there is either a HUGE draw of current, or the alternator isn't putting out enough. Once the engine is started, the battery's job is pretty much done, except as a reserve for momentarily needing more power.
 
I don't know why you would think battery, if the lights dim at a light, that usually means there is either a HUGE draw of current, or the alternator isn't putting out enough. Once the engine is started, the battery's job is pretty much done, except as a reserve for momentarily needing more power.

Unless the engine idle is dropping so low that even a correctly working alternator can no longer function.
I would suspect the IAC, as I believe that it should move smoothly.
 
Unless the engine idle is dropping so low that even a correctly working alternator can no longer function.
I would suspect the IAC, as I believe that it should move smoothly.
I do suppose you are correct, and I agree the IAC should move smoothly.
 
I will purchase the IAC in the morning, also I just found that my throttle position sensor (that sits behind the IAC mounted in to the throttle body wit to Phillip head screws)

Is slightly loose and when I adjusted it upwards, meaning the side the connector plugs in was raised to the sky, I got a jolt of power that seemed to be hiding and the ls took off down the street like a scalded dog. Lol

I tighten the top screw some and took my zippo lighter and tap it down until the RPM's sat just between the dash before #1 and it runs and idles smoothly. Also I noticed that now at a dead stop in gear when I release the brake the ls moves forward, at first it would just sit, there or barely move on just idle power alone.
 
After I put in a new intake on my 02 V8 it would act like it was going to die at every stop light including lights dimming etc .. right up until I realized I had forgotten to reconnect the O2 sensor. Maybe yours is failing?

If it starts, your battery is probably fine. If you want to check your alternator then start the car, turn the high beams on, crank the stereo, climate fan on max, turn the heated seats on, and anything else you can think of that draws current. If interior lights start dimming at any point = not good.
 
After I put in a new intake on my 02 V8 it would act like it was going to die at every stop light including lights dimming etc .. right up until I realized I had forgotten to reconnect the O2 sensor. Maybe yours is failing?

If it starts, your battery is probably fine. If you want to check your alternator then start the car, turn the high beams on, crank the stereo, climate fan on max, turn the heated seats on, and anything else you can think of that draws current. If interior lights start dimming at any point = not good.


It still does it, didn't think about the O2 sensors, I have notice my gas mileage is 15 mpg, thought maybe it was the big piece of lead resting on the pedal. Lol
Waiting now for the weather to break going to tune it up and go from there. Pulled one of the plugs and noticed it had black soot on it.
And they really haven't been long maybe a year or two. Could be a vacuum leak.
Also I noticed that when its 30 below my dash lights are bright. Anything above freezing the dash lights are dim.
 
The advice about checking the air filter for a rich mixture is very very outdated. It applies to carbureted cars and early fuel injection without MAF sensors. If you have a working MAF, a restricted filter should result in power loss, but not a rich mixture.
 
A sudden unexplained MPG drop is usually O2s, but your electrical symptoms say alternator to me. You say you replaced it 5 months ago, where did you get it? If it's a parts store reman it is still suspect, because when those things are remanufactured they only replace the parts that fail their VERY loose standards. In some cases, the rebuild consists of wiping the grease off the case and sending it right back in. If it wasn't a local rebuild shop with instructions to replace all parts regardless of wear, or a Motorcraft rebuild, I would still consider the alternator. If you decide to replace the alternator again, put a battery charger on the battery to give it a full charge. Were it not a Yellow Top I'd say replace both at the same time but Yellow Tops can handle multiple deep discharges. An new alternator called upon to recharge a badly depleted battery can blow the diodes, which kills the alternator.
 
The advice about checking the air filter for a rich mixture is very very outdated. It applies to carbureted cars and early fuel injection without MAF sensors. If you have a working MAF, a restricted filter should result in power loss, but not a rich mixture.

I asked about the air filter, no one gave any advice having to do with it.
 
I asked about the air filter, no one gave any advice having to do with it.

It's right there in the "bottom middle one" of the picture you linked to. Didn't you read it before pointing it out?

http://www.pakwheels.com/forums/att...6251_100000158253468_1886012_1011257591_n.jpg

if your plugs look like the bottom middle one then between that, your mpg, and it trying to die like that I'd say changing your O2 sensor is probably a safe bet. Out of curiosity, when was the last time you checked your intake filter?
 

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