2003 Lincoln LS 3.9 wont disable alarm

Diplomat 1 said:
I was trying to diagnose the problem And I think I figured out the problem. With the key in the run position I put ground to the “starter relay coil” fuse which is fuse #1 on the passenger side fuse box and the car started. Does this point to a bad key ignition or something else? Thanks again for all the help
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That's really messed up. That's power (not ground) to the DTR (neutral start switch) and then to the relay coil. The other side of the relay coil is grounded by the instrument cluster, not powered. I can't imagine how screwed up it would have to be for that to have worked.

I could see supplying power (12V) to that fuse working, but not grounding it out.
 
joegr said:
That's really messed up. That's power (not ground) to the DTR (neutral start switch) and then to the relay coil. The other side of the relay coil is grounded by the instrument cluster, not powered. I can't imagine how screwed up it would have to be for that to have worked.

I could see supplying power (12V) to that fuse working, but not grounding it out.
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I’m sorry again Jorgr you are 100% right it was on power not ground. I was checking all the fuses in the box and it all lit up when I had my test light on ground except the starter coil fuse so I put it on the positive side and it started.
 
Yeah... and you really need to watch what you start grounding (or sending.power to) or you will need much more than a battery. :eek:

As an afterthought... check for corrosion at the starter terminals.

If the terminals are green (or have white powder on them... that might be the problem... and they will need to be cleaned and then sprayed with a "battery terminal protector".
 
Diplomat 1 said:
I’m sorry again Jorgr you are 100% right it was on power not ground. I was checking all the fuses in the box and it all lit up when I had my test light on ground except the starter coil fuse so I put it on the positive side and it started.
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That fuse is only powered when the key is held in the start position. First verify that the fuse is not blown. If it is not blown, then the ignition switch is what you are left with, but that would be really rare.
 
joegr said:
That fuse is only powered when the key is held in the start position. First verify that the fuse is not blown. If it is not blown, then the ignition switch is what you are left with, but that would be really rare.
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With my luck I think I got the rare one. I tried 3 different fuses and still no luck. Can I swap the ignition switch out myself or is it something that needs to be programmed to the key from the dealer or shop? Appreciate all the help guys
 
No programming, just an electro-mechanical switch.
I'm looking for the instructions on changing it, but haven't found them yet.
 
I'm still kinda leaning towards corrosion somewhere, or a battery issue... since the alarm is playing "mind games" with itsself.

The only other thing I can think of at the moment... would be a bad starter relay. If there is severe corrosion at the starter... the extra load could cause the relay to fail.
 
04_Sport_LS said:
I'm still kinda leaning towards corrosion somewhere, or a battery issue... since the alarm is playing "mind games" with itsself.

The only other thing I can think of at the moment... would be a bad starter relay. If there is severe corrosion at the starter... the extra load could cause the relay to fail.
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I can check starter but if I put power to the starter coil fuse is that bypassing the starter relay? I can also try swapping the starter relay with another if you think that will help.
 
As Joe said above... the fuse for the starter relay is only powered when you hit the key. So if you don't have power through that fuse... the relay might be toast. The relay completes the circuit... so there won't be any power at the fuse if the relay is bad.

You could try swapping relays... but off the top of my head, I can't tell you which ones interchange with the starter relay.

FYI... the "starter coil" IS the relay.

Joe will correct me if I gave you any mis-information.
 
04_Sport_LS said:
As Joe said above... the fuse for the starter relay is only powered when you hit the key. So if you don't have power through that fuse... the relay might be toast. The relay completes the circuit... so there won't be any power at the fuse if the relay is bad.

You could try swapping relays... but off the top of my head, I can't tell you which ones interchange with the starter relay.

FYI... the "starter coil" IS the relay.

Joe will correct me if I gave you any mis-information.
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I found the starter relay and starter solenoid from a diagram I found online. I swapped both of them with known good ones, one with the horn relay and the other with the wiper, and still no crank from key. I really believe I got a bad ignition switch. Looking thru eBay will something like this work and be plug n play?

81A875F2-03B1-4015-9857-FEAAC146D4DB.png
 
04_Sport_LS said:
... the relay might be toast. ...
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The fuse is powered via the ignition switch. The relay completes the circuit to ground, so not having power at the fuse can't be the relay. Anyway, he proved that the relay, neutral switch, and cluster are good when he applied power to the fuse and the car started.
 
joegr said:
The fuse is powered via the ignition switch. The relay completes the circuit to ground, so not having power at the fuse can't be the relay. Anyway, he proved that the relay, neutral switch, and cluster are good when he applied power to the fuse and the car started.
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Yea I swapped relays around and still same problem. I believe it’s the ignition switch but if I replace it with one from the junkyard won’t the new key stop the car from starting?
 
Diplomat 1 said:
I found the starter relay and starter solenoid from a diagram I found online. I swapped both of them with known good ones, one with the horn relay and the other with the wiper, and still no crank from key. I really believe I got a bad ignition switch. Looking thru eBay will something like this work and be plug n play?

View attachment 828575908
Click to expand...

You don't need the lock cylinder. You just need the switch that snaps on the end of it.

switch.png

You don't want to change keys. Then you have to program PATS.
The part number is F8LZ-11572-AA.
https://www.amazon.com/WVE-NTK-1S6462-Ignition-Switch/dp/B07F27VM4G
 
Diplomat 1 said:
Yea I swapped relays around and still same problem. I believe it’s the ignition switch but if I replace it with one from the junkyard won’t the new key stop the car from starting?
Click to expand...

The switch and the key lock are two separate things. There's no reason the change the lock part, just the switch part.
 
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