2003 Lincoln LS Parasite Battery Drain

[TheCodyBears]

I have a Parasite Battery drain in my 2003 Lincoln LS. I have followed the steps in the Ford battery drain TSB. I have found that Fuse 20 in the Passenger Fuse box is the cause of the draw. On my multimeter with settings ACV 5A. 1.26 draw and then to .64 draw when fuse is pulled.

Fuse 20 FEM, DATC, Cluster, REM

Not sure how to test the FEM and REM Modules without a dealer grade scanner. Did a self test on the DATC came up with the following codes:

2796 - Can't find anything on this code
2426 - Can't find anything on this code
2798 - Driver Coolant Control Valve Circuit Short to Ground

I have a few questions and need so guidance on what to do next.

What is the DATC? Is that the climate control in the dash?
How do I check the DCCV and DATC Circuit?
Should I test the FEM and REM? How can I do that?

 

[joegr]

B2795 Driver Solar Radiation Sensor Circuit Short to Ground - Probably not really a problem
B2426 Pass Solar Radiation Sensor Circuit Open - Probably not really a problem.
Do your automatic headlights work correctly?

B2798 - This is a problem. It's probably your DCCV, but there are tests to rule that in or out.

2006 Lincoln LS Workshop Manual

Note that this issue will keep the climate control awake longer and easily consume that 1.26 amps. However, parasitic drain troubleshooting is complicated. Any change you make to the car like opening or closing a door or pulling a fuse or jumping in a current meter will restart the sleep timer and you have to wait another 30 or 40 minutes before your readings are valid. You are not waiting for that, because the valid sleep drain is about 20 to 40 mA (.040 A), so your reading of 640mA shows that it is still awake.

Yes, the DATC is the climate control. Fix the known short at the DCCV before going further.

 

[TheCodyBears]

B2795 Driver Solar Radiation Sensor Circuit Short to Ground - Probably not really a problem
B2426 Pass Solar Radiation Sensor Circuit Open - Probably not really a problem.
Do your automatic headlights work correctly?

B2798 - This is a problem. It's probably your DCCV, but there are tests to rule that in or out.

2006 Lincoln LS Workshop Manual

Note that this issue will keep the climate control awake longer and easily consume that 1.26 amps. However, parasitic drain troubleshooting is complicated. Any change you make to the car like opening or closing a door or pulling a fuse or jumping in a current meter will restart the sleep timer and you have to wait another 30 or 40 minutes before your readings are valid. You are not waiting for that, because the valid sleep drain is about 20 to 40 mA (.040 A), so your reading of 640mA shows that it is still awake.

Yes, the DATC is the climate control. Fix the known short at the DCCV before going further.

I was hoping you would reply, lol. Been seeing your answers all over.

Update, I followed the steps provided. H7 lead me to H10, etc. Need some help understanding what I am looking for on the multimeter. I unplugged the DATC and DCCV, put the multimeter to the instructed wires. Multimeter was set to 20k OHM and I "1", which I am assuming is more than 10,000 OHMs. This means I will need to replace DATC Module. went to test the current draw on battery and blew my meter in the wrong settings but waited a while and the car started right up. Before it would not start after 30 mins sitting. I don't if that means the DATC is faulty as well. Will try toi start the car in the morning to see if the battery is drained or not. Will check the grounds again tomorrow when I get another multimeter.

Few more questions:
When replacing the DATC, will I need to reprogram it or just make same year make and model?
The DCCV had a little corrosion around the plug, Should I replace that as well?
Can you dumb it down, if possible, how to do do set H10 with a multimeter?

 

[joegr]

Put the meter on the resistance setting. If it is auto-ranging then you are good, if not, select a range that is 20K ohms or so. Verify that you read "1" with the probes not touching anything. This means over-range, so the resistance is greater than the maximum that it can read in that range. Hold the probe tips together and it should read a very low number, less then 5. If all that is good, then you can do the test above. Be sure that the DATC is unplugged (as well as the DCCV) when you do this test.
It is far more often the DCCV (it leaks internally and then shorts out) than it is the DATC, so you may want to repeat your tests from the start to be certain.

A DATC from a similar car should be a drop-in with no programming required.