2004 Lincoln LS Rough idle

Right on, the big nut on the metal tube is the part I'm worried about cuz I'm sure it's seized tight, so I'm worried I'm going to break the tube off trying to take it apart, not much room to get in there either, probably going to go have to buy the correct tools for this job, lol
 
SultanGris said:
Right on, the big nut on the metal tube is the part I'm worried about cuz I'm sure it's seized tight, so I'm worried I'm going to break the tube off trying to take it apart, not much room to get in there either, probably going to go have to buy the correct tools for this job, lol
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I had to change the EGR on my 2006 it wasn't terrible...there is a lot of write ups on how to do it on here ...just Google search Lincolnvscadillac EGR replacement procedure
 
SultanGris said:
Right on, the big nut on the metal tube is the part I'm worried about cuz I'm sure it's seized tight, so I'm worried I'm going to break the tube off trying to take it apart, not much room to get in there either, probably going to go have to buy the correct tools for this job, lol
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The big nut on the tube isn't that bad. Just run the engine until the nut gets almost too warm to hold onto. Then shut the engine off and soak both sides of the nut with PB Blaster and let it soak til it cools off. As the nut cools it should suck the Blaster in toward the threads... and come apart fairly easily.

Or... if you wanna cheat... you could heat the nut with a propane torch, (the type that uses the Coleman propane cylinders), and spray the nut with the Blaster.

Just dont hit the nut with the torch after spraying the Blaster on the nut.
 
Thanks guys, but I kinda hijacked this thread with a question about forscan, I believe the original poster still has his issue also.
 
SultanGris said:
Right on, the big nut on the metal tube is the part I'm worried about cuz I'm sure it's seized tight, so I'm worried I'm going to break the tube off trying to take it apart, not much room to get in there either, probably going to go have to buy the correct tools for this job, lol
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As was said, it's really not that bad. However, I recommend that you remove the fuel pressure sensor first. It's easy to hit it and break it with the wrench when the nut suddenly starts moving. I'll also warn you that the assembly of plastic vacuum lines that connect to the valve may crumble into dust when you go to disconnect it.
 
Hi everyone ,

just giving a brief update. I ended up clearing all the codes and noticed my P0660 code is still showing, indicating an IMTV circuit fault. I ordered a IMTV valve and IMTV O-ring for the non faulty one. I figured I might as well change the O-ring on the one that isn’t broken.
Went on a drive using Forscan data tables. They indicated I have an IMTV fault on one of the valves. That’s what led me down this path.

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So i have had rough idle issue for about a year now, a few mins after cranking but didnt if i was driving and then idle, only at startup and it shook the whole car.. 2 weeks ago I changed my fuel pressure sensor due to stalling, and since i did the rough idle has went away.

I got one from pull a part locally it wouldn’t start when i installed, then went to another pull yard in New Orleans that had a slew of LS’s on hand i got a couple more with success from the first one i put on. Hope this helps.
 
Update:

I purchased a new imtv and O-ring to replace on the other imtv and after removing the cabin filter assembly and enclosure I found that one of the imtv’s was unplugged. I guess when I paid someone to do my valve covers awhile back the must’ve forgot to plug one of the imtvs in. Error code went away. This however did not fix the misfire issue. Beginning to think it’s time to replace the coils although I have no codes.
 
Linc615 said:
So i have had rough idle issue for about a year now, a few mins after cranking but didnt if i was driving and then idle, only at startup and it shook the whole car.. 2 weeks ago I changed my fuel pressure sensor due to stalling, and since i did the rough idle has went away.

I got one from pull a part locally it wouldn’t start when i installed, then went to another pull yard in New Orleans that had a slew of LS’s on hand i got a couple more with success from the first one i put on. Hope this helps.
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What lead you to replace the fuel pressure gage ? Any codes ?
 
joeym427 said:
What lead you to replace the fuel pressure gage ? Any codes ?
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Yes, I actually wasn't familiar with the pressure sensor so I figured the pressure sensor circuit code (I think thats what it was called) was a bad fuel pump, so I changed the fuel pump still no success. I located the pressure sensor by research of pics and located it on top of engine (02 3.9 V8)drivers side, fairly easy to change just undo it easy bc I got gas sprayed in my face, its just 2 bolts and a vacuum hose. It runs like it should now.

I will add, that I didn't have a stalling problem until I ran a fuel system treatment thru the tank, then i decided maybe it just needs a flush so I ran seafoam thru the tank and it killed my fuel pump somehow, so I replaced the fuel pump again and then the pressure sensor and I will not be using anything besides shell premium in my fuel, no more additives.

anyone know why it would cause it to kill the components?
 
How old were the components? Prolly loosened gunk and then plugged it
 
SultanGris said:
How old were the components? Prolly loosened gunk and then plugged it
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Fuel pump it killed was used, so I wasn't aggravated over it, it was out of a low mileage 2002 LS V8, So I put my old fuel pump back in the car that was original and it worked it wasn't the issue I thought it was.

When I shined the flashlight in the tank the gas looked brown, and had some debris in it, idk if its bc the color of the interior of the tank, or its really brown but I want to clean the entire tank and get all the gunk out, anyone have any experience doing this, or is it a waste of time?
 
If you do that you got to take it off and get it steam cleaned I think probably more trouble than it's worth, can keep running cleaner and change your filter a few times maybe. Shouldn't wreck the pump to be honest, maybe coincidence?
 
just curious, how much seafoam did you run through it? I ran seafoam through mine also, but half a can at a tank. still haven't fixed my stalling problem but it only happens under acceleration usually after I've driven for a while and it's warmed up and I'm driving hard, and sometimes it doesn't happen at all. After the seafoam I ran two bottles of Lucas in separate tanks and it actually ran great and fixed my hard starting issue after that untill this guy removed with my intake to fix coolant hose. Maybe coincidence. I'm gonna try more Lucas just for giggles and see what happens cause it's starting hard on me again now.
 
Been running Seafoam in my LS twice a year for the last 150k+ miles.

IIRC... can says it treats 16 gallons. LS tank is 18-19 gallons, so it shouldn't be an issue.
 
Got a check fuel cap msg today, took off and put back on and it seemed to run a little better for a minute, I'm gonna go buy a new one and see what happens. It doesn't click and it feels kinda funky
 
Try cleaning the fuel neck with some Windex and a rag.... and wipe off the gasket on the fuel cap.

I do that every so often, because road gunk/spray seems to build up on the neck and gasket.

Either way... a good new cap is only around $10-15. Don't know if they are still available... but O'reilly's used to keep stock on a cap that was made in Israel instead of China. Most of the Chinese caps are junk.
 
04_Sport_LS said:
Try cleaning the fuel neck with some Windex and a rag.... and wipe off the gasket on the fuel cap.

I do that every so often, because road gunk/spray seems to build up on the neck and gasket.

Either way... a good new cap is only around $10-15. Don't know if they are still available... but O'reilly's used to keep stock on a cap that was made in Israel instead of China. Most of the Chinese caps are junk.
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Happen to know the manufacturer? They don't have a clue who makes them when I asked, lol, thanks

They were trying to give me a Stant
 
It has been too long ago since I replaced the fuel cap on my LS. I just remember it was made in israel instead of China.

Stant has been around for a long time, (decades), and usually makes good products.

The important thing is that the seal between the fuel neck and filler cap is good.
 
I got a stant, It's made in the USA so it's got to be better than the Chinese crap I hope. It's the only one they have anymore anyways, thanks.
 
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