2004 Lincoln LS V8 overheating/mysterious leak

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Micah

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Hello, I’m new to this forum with my 2004 Lincoln LS V8 I’ve recently acquired. However it’s got a cooling system leak that I can’t seem to find. I want to take the car on about a 3 hour road trip in a couple weeks and wanna get it fixed for that. It holds water for about a day or day and a half if I’m lucky.

I don’t believe the heater core is leaking, no obvious signs like a broken thermostat housing or hose or even radiator (as if I could see it very well but would assume to be able to see it on the ground..) and was wondering if the degas bottle could be the culprit? I notice when I’m bleeding the system each time I put water in (heater of full blast etc.) and it’s full, the degas bottle starts making this weird bubbling/vibrating noise and it doesn’t go away until the water level goes down a bit (I assume from leaking).

I don’t know what the noise is really but I really just wanna get the car fixed because it’s just that and some minor (hopefully) trans issues the car has. It’s only got 78k original miles and it’s very nice and I want it to be my daily but doing this is annoying.
 
That gurgling is air from the engine air bleed hose bubbling out at the bottom of the degas bottle. The level goes down because coolant displaces the air that is being removed from the engine cooling circuit. You are getting air in there because of all the micro cracks in the plastic parts of the cooling system. You are not seeing coolant on the ground because most of it is coming out on hot parts while the engine is running and is evaporating.
People fight this advice, but it is reality. Yes, your degas bottle is cracked, but it is only part of your leaks. All the plastic cooling system parts need to be replace.

Definitive GEN 2 Cooling System Thread
GenII LS8 Cooling System Overhaul
 
And don't cheap out on any of the plastic parts stick with OEM. You might think everyone here is full of it but they are not. You will have problems like I had with a aftermarket DCCV or Aux Water Pump. These guys know what they are talking about. The only acceptable aftermarket I would say on the Gen 2 is the Degas bottle and either go with the one by URO parts or find a metal one. There is a few on eBay right now selling the metal one for $50.
 
04_Sport_LS said:
Yup... repairing/replacing the cooling system on the LS is an "all in" commitment.
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Only thing I am willing to go aftermarket otherwise is the hoses themselves if they are rubber cause OEM is getting hard to find in that aspect.
 
Using aftermarket hoses is probably acceptable... as long as the aftermarket hoses don't contain any plastic... such as the upper hose with the wye. The aftermarket plastic never seens to hold up as well.

Also to the OP... Micah... don't replace the factory clamps with after market worm screw drive clamps. They won't hold up well either. One of the advantages of the factory parts... is that they come with new factory clamps... and are usually orientated to ease install.
 
So far, aftermarket radiators seem to be okay too.
 
joegr said:
So far, aftermarket radiators seem to be okay too.
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Yeah mine I went aftermarket at the time for my radiator. It was the TYC one on amazon and so far that seems to be OK still. But if my leaking still continues after this on the front of the car I am going to be somewhat suspect of the radiator and be forced to change it to OEM. The last two things aftermarket on the system are the actual Water Pump which I got the AC Delco New one and the TYC Radiator. But all the other stuff I tried to cheap out on really seem to have bit me in the ass on this car so these guys are spot on with what they say.
 
Micah, welcome! sorry for the bad news about the coolant system needing most of the plastic parts replaced.
you did pick a great car to own and drive, don't doubt that.
this is one of the negatives though. this is one of many threads i've seen with the same question, and these guys give the same correct advice (some of them got that same advice when they joined too :))
 
Bad head gasket huh?

20191231_134624.jpg
 
That would be a first on this forum, (to the best of my knowledge).

1 - Does your LS sit outside all of the time?

2 - If so... does it see wide temp swings?

3 - Do you do alot of short trip driving... where the engine never gets up to full temp?
 
Yeah it sees alot of temp change. Yes I shoft trip drive alot. But ifs been overheating randomly. Ive had fan problems. The oil on the stick isnt milky though. Or at least it wasnt a couple days ago anyway
 
The other possibiliy is, (if you have the oil cooler at the oil filter), that is has corroded through or the o-ring is bad.

How does the oil on the dipstick look?
 
As an engine warms up... it creates alot of moisture inside... especially in colder temps.

Short trip driving never allows all of that moisture to "burn off".

Wide temp swings of 30+ degrees or so can cause the same, but to a lesser degree.

Combine the 2... and the problem is compounded. Can you let it sit long enough to see if the oil is milky or sludgy?

Usually the residue on the cap is brownish white when it's excess moisture in the engine. Is the green stuff actually coolant... or could it be algea???

Edit:. Duh... it shouldn't be coolant... unless you're using the wrong type. Its most likely algea. You have the V8... correct?
 
04_Sport_LS said:
That would be a first on this forum, (to the best of my knowledge)...
Click to expand...
Actually, the third I believe.
That said, I agree that this is 10 times more likely to just be short trips in a winter environment.
 
Yes v8. Hasn't had an oil change in way too long too. I'll check the dipstick again in a little bit after it sits.
 
Do an oil change with new filter and take it on a good hour drive.

Start taking the long way to your destinations too... maybe 10 times around the block. :D
 
Justin S said:
Yes v8. Hasn't had an oil change in way too long too. I'll check the dipstick again in a little bit after it sits.
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I live in a very cold climate and have seen the brownish creamy film on my oil cap on a 2001 V8 I used to have...haven't seen it on my 2002 or 2006 that I currently drive but yes it was due to cold weather...the greenish color is a bit concerning but Like 04_Sport_LS said make sure you change the oil ASAP and probably wouldn't hurt to use a MotorCraft oil filter ...if you have a garage put the car in the garage after the oil change and keep an eye on the situation...Blown Head Gaskets are possible on any car but there are more false alarms than true Blown Gaskets...I guess it could happen if you drove the car a long distance when it was overheating...
 
thanks all for the responses, i've decided to start buying parts as i need to finish getting it legal in my name anyways, so ill just work at it until i have everything i need. i've wanted one of these cars for a while and i wish mine was a better example and i wish the last owner was better but its still better than would i would've otherwise been able to afford lol.

next thing is the transmission, hoping i just need the solenoid packs and its not too far gone....
 
Micah said:
thanks all for the responses, i've decided to start buying parts as i need to finish getting it legal in my name anyways, so ill just work at it until i have everything i need. i've wanted one of these cars for a while and i wish mine was a better example and i wish the last owner was better but its still better than would i would've otherwise been able to afford lol.

next thing is the transmission, hoping i just need the solenoid packs and its not too far gone....
Click to expand...
What are the symptoms your experiencing when it comes to your transmission?
 
it seems like when it shifts into 3rd gear it also locks up the torque converter and then unlocks immediately after, and it delays/jerks/hardshifts into 4th almost no matter what (except under WOT or very very light throttle) and occasionally is rough when shifting to reverse, or has a delay, sometimes i have to play with it to get it into reverse because it won't fully engage sometimes.
 
Oh, not good. You're looking at replacing the solenoid assembly and probably rebuilding the valve body at a minimum. If it has gone long enough, then it'll be a full transmission rebuild.
 
joegr said:
Oh, not good. You're looking at replacing the solenoid assembly and probably rebuilding the valve body at a minimum. If it has gone long enough, then it'll be a full transmission rebuild.
Click to expand...

that's what i was worried about, i had originally bought the car as a drift car or project car or even to flip but i kinda fell in love with it, but i do miss having a manual and this is turning out to have all the common/expensive issues lol finding out why the car ended up at auction now, can't say im surprised.
 
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